May Martin

May Martin’s Sewing Bible: 40 years of tips and tricks


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table, kitchen table, even an ironing board – for cutting out your fabric.

      Clear plastic boxes – to store fabrics, threads and haberdashery. I find it invaluable to see instantly where everything is.

      Essential Tools

      For your basic sewing kit, you’ll need the following items:

      Hand-sewing needles – sharps (all-purpose) for hand-sewing, curved needles for craft, crewel (with a long eye) for embroidery. A needle threader is also invaluable.

      Pins – dressmaker’s and glass-headed.

      Thimble – metal, plastic or leather – for protecting the tips of your fingers when you’re hand-sewing.

      Measures – A standard tape measure is 152cm (60in); an extra-long tape measure (30-cm/120in) is really useful when making curtains. A ruler comes in very handy, too, especially a gridded ruler with angles marked.

      Pin cushion – to keep pins handy.

      Cutting tools – scissors in different sizes, including dressmaker’s shears (25cm/10in), medium embroidery/needlework scissors (13cm/5in), small embroidery scissors (10cm/4in), paper-cutting scissors; and, perhaps not essential but extremely useful, pinking shears, sewing snips, stitch ripper.

      Markers – chalk pencils, chalk wheels, air- and water-soluble marker pens (see here), dressmaker’s chalk, tracing wheel and carbon paper (see here).

      Tracing or dressmaker’s carbon paper and tracing wheel – to copy designs and pattern markings (see here).

      Coloured tape – to make a sewing guide on the throat plate of the sewing machine, and masking tape.

      Essential Tools 1

       1. Dressmaker’s shears – good for cutting fabric

      2. Medium sewing scissors – good for trimming seams and cutting threads.

      3. Small scissors – these are useful for clipping corners and cutting details

      4. Paper scissors

      5. Stitch ripper – really useful for cutting and pulling out threads

      6. Tape measure – 150cm (6oin)

      7. Double-length (soocm/120in) tape measures are now available and are really useful when cutting out curtains and blinds

      8. Universal ruler with inch scale

      9. Sewing gauge with sliding adjustergood for measuring seam allowances and hems

      10. Small measuring gauge – this has lots of different measurements on the sides

      11. Tailor’s chalk

      12. Tracing wheel

      13. Tracing or dressmaker’s carbon paper, used with a tracing wheel

      14. Retractable pencils – they give a fine line that can be rubbed out with a fabric eraser.

      15. Quilter’s 6mm (¼ in) tape – helps to guide rows of stitching

      16. Coloured tape – useful for putting on the arm of the sewing machine to guide you

      17. Pins – dressmaker’s

      18. Pins – glass-headed

      19. Metal thimble

      20. Leather thimble

      21. Selection of hand sewing needles

      22. Needle threader

      23. Corner and edge shaper

      24. Chopstick – used for turning out tricky corners

      25. Safety pins – used for threading elastic or tape into channels.

      26. Wrist pin cushion

      Essential Tools 1

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       Essential Tools 2

      1. Seam roll

      2. Tailor’s ham

      3. Sleeve board

      4. Pressing muslin

      5. Squared pattern paper

      6. Curved needles

      7. Pinking sheers

      8. Awl – good for making holes in card

      9. Universal ruler with centimetre scale

      10. Flexible ruler – for measuring and marking curves

      11. Parcel strapping

      12. Chalk cartridge pencil

      13. Coloured refills for chalk cartridge pencil

      14. Brass rings attached to paper fasteners

      15. Chalk-filled tracing wheel

      16. Soluble marking pen

      17. Bodkin