Choose a simple style: the simpler the style, the quicker you will construct and finish the project.
2. Look for a pattern described by the manufacturer as easy.
3. Look at the line drawing of the design on the back of the pattern. A very basic indication of the degree of difficulty is the number of lines or details on the style diagram. The more lines on the drawing, the greater the number of pieces and therefore construction details.
4. For your first project, pick a style with just a few design features or lines on the drawing of the garment. The Pencil Skirt is a simple yet stylish design that would made a good first project. It has a front piece, two back pieces and a waistband. You will learn how to make darts, construct and neaten seams, how to put in a zip, attach a waistband and finish a hem. An excellent place to start.
Following a pattern
Once you’ve selected your pattern, work with a friend or classmate to take body measurements. Compare these measurements to those on the pattern envelope, and don’t be alarmed! You will probably be a larger size than you would be in a ready-made garment. The next step is getting to grips with the pattern itself. A paper pattern is full of useful information but navigating your way through all the detail can seem a little bewildering at first, especially as each pattern covers a range of sizes and as well as various versions of the same garment. Here is a short guide.
Pattern envelope
The front of the envelope gives the pattern number, make and size (or range of sizes). There will be a photo or sketches of the garment showing the different versions or ‘views’, each marked with a letter (A, B, C, etc).
The back of the envelope includes the following:
The Hourglass Equally balanced on top and bottom, with a trim waist
The Inverted Triangle large bust and/or broad shoulders with narrow hips
The Rectangle balanced on top and bottom but boxy, with little or no waist or definition
The Triangle Small bust and/ or narrow shoulders with fullhips and/ or thighs
Inside the Envelope
You will find paper pattern pieces printed and joined together on sheets of tissue. There will be a couple of instruction sheets with line drawings of the garment, suggested layouts of the pattern for different fabric widths, and instructions for constructing the garment.
On the first instruction sheet you’ll see a list of pattern pieces needed for each view featured on the front of the envelope. Ring the ‘view’ you are making and highlight the pattern pieces you need. Find the pattern layout for your width of fabric and style and highlight the heading, then select and carefully cut out the pattern pieces you need (see also ‘Pin-fitting a paper pattern’).
Pattern Markings
A paper pattern is like a jigsaw puzzle. All the pieces will fit together beautifully to produce a wonderful end result, but to achieve this you need to lay each piece out in the optimum way, laying them along the grain line of the fabric as instructed and using them to cut out your fabric carefully and accurately. Some of the markings you’ll find on your pattern pieces are shown opposite. It’s important to understand them before you start cutting out., so read the explanation of each marking. Older paper patterns may have perforations to mark details. Modern patterns tend to have the markings printed on.
Lay to the fold: When a pattern piece has one of these markings on the edge, that edge should be placed on a folded edge of fabric. This is usually created by folding the fabric in half lengthways so that the selvedges meet.
Straight of grain: This line should lie along the grain line of the fabric (see here). Usually the grain line of the pattern piece is positioned parallel to the selvedge, with each pointed end of the line the same distance from the selvedge.
Fitting line or seam allowance: This line is usually situated 1.5cm (⅝in) from the edge of the pattern. It indicates where the seam is to be sewn and hence where you join your fabric pieces together.
Notches or balance marks: These help you to position one piece of fabric at exactly the right point on another. They are single, double or triple. Cut out double or triple notches as a single unit and always cut notches outwards, never inwards, or you will lose some of your seam allowance.
Darts: These are the marks on the pattern piece indicating where a dart is positioned; they need to be marked with tailor's tacks.
Centre line or fold lines: These are the lines on the garment where the centre front aligns with another part of the garment. I often put a tiny clip at either end of the line.
Pleats: These are markings indicating where pleats should be made; they need to be marked with tailor's tacks.
Button and buttonhole positions: These mark where to sew a button or make a buttonhole.
Bust, waist or hip line: This mark indicates the position of the bust, waist or hips on a garment.
Laying the Paper Pattern along the Grain
When you put on a sweater, you probably notice how it’s really stretchy when you pull it across your body but less so when you pull it down. The same applies to fabric in general, whether the structure