close to the ground,—they want elevating rather than depressing. Notwithstanding, you will do well to show your pupil a few times out of doors, how to work out a scent, by dragging a piece of bread unperceived by him down wind through grass, and then letting him “foot” it out. Try him for a few yards at first; you can gradually increase the length of the drag. You must not, however, practise this initiatory lesson too frequently, lest you give him the wretched custom of pottering.
OLD-FASHIONED ENGLISH SETTER,—RETRIEVERS, ONE A CROSS WITH BLOODHOUND.
Heel.—“A backward low wave of the right hand.”—Par. 44.
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“HEEL.”—“GONE.”
44. The word “Heel,” and a backward low wave of the right hand and arm to the rear, (the reverse of the underhand cricket-bowler’s swing,) will, after a few times, bring the dog close behind you. Keep him there a while and pat him, but do not otherwise reward him. The object of the order was to make him instantly give up hunting, and come to your heels. This signal cannot be substituted for the “beckon.” The one is an order always obeyed with reluctance (being a command to leave off hunting), whereas the “beckon” is merely an instruction in what direction to beat, and will be attended to with delight. The signal “heel,” however, when given immediately after loading, is an exception; for the instructions about “Dead,” in xi. of paragraph 141, will show that without your speaking, it may be made to impart the gratifying intelligence of your having killed. See also 277.
45. To teach him to attach a meaning to the word “Gone,” or “Away,” or “Flown,”[12] (select which you will, but do not ring the changes,) you may now rub a piece of meat (if you have no one but your servant to scold you) in some place where the dog is accustomed frequently to find, and when he is sniffing at the place say “Gone,” or “Away.” This he will, after some trials, perceive to be an intimation that it is of no use to continue hunting for it.
46. You will greatly facilitate his acquiring the meaning of the command “Fence,” or “Ware fence,” if, from time to time, as he is quitting the room through the open door or garden window, you restrain him by calling out that word.
“WARE FENCE.”
47. Whenever, indeed, you wish him to desist from doing anything, call out “Ware,” (pronounced “War”), as it will expedite his hereafter understanding the terms, “Ware sheep,” “Ware chase,” and “Ware lark.” The last expression to be used when he is wasting his time upon the scent of anything but game—a fault best cured by plenty of birds being killed to him. However, the simple word “No,” omitting “Chase” or “Fence,” might be substituted advantageously for “Ware.” All you want him to do is to desist from a wrong action. That sharp sound,—and when necessary it can be clearly thundered out,—cannot be misunderstood.
ACCUSTOMED TO COUPLES.
48. That your young dog may not hereafter resist the couples, yoke him occasionally to a stronger dog, and for the sake of peace, and in the name of all that is gallant, let it be to the one of the other sex who appears to be the greatest favourite.
49. When he is thus far advanced in his education, and tolerably obedient, which he will soon become if you are consistent, and patient, yet strict, you can, in further pursuance of Astley’s plan, associate him in his lessons with a companion. Should you be breaking in another youngster, (though one at a time you will probably find quite enough, especially if it be your laudable wish to give him hereafter a well-confirmed scientific range,) they can now be brought together for instruction. You must expect to witness the same jealousy which they would exhibit on the stubble. Both will be anxious to hunt for the bread, and in restraining them alternately from so doing, you exact the obedience which you will require hereafter in the field, when in their natural eagerness they will endeavour, unless you properly control them, to take the point of birds from one another; or, in their rivalry, run over the taint of a wounded bird, instead of collectedly and perseveringly working out the scent. You can throw a bit of toast and make them “Toho” it, and then let the dog you name take it. In the same way you can let each alternately search for a hidden piece, after both have come up to you, on your saying “Dead.” I would also advise you to accustom each dog to “drop,” without any command from you, the moment he sees that the other is down.
50. Those lessons will almost ensure their hereafter instantly obeying, and nearly instantly comprehending the object of the signal to “back” any dog which may be pointing game.
51. When you take out two youngsters for exercise, while they are romping about, suddenly call one into “heel.” After a time again send him off on his gambols. Whistle to catch the eye of the other, and signal to him to join you. By working them thus alternately, while they are fresh and full of spirits, you will habituate them to implicit obedience. When the birds are wild, and you are anxious to send a basket of game to a friend, it is very satisfactory to be able merely by a sign, without uttering a word, to bring the other dogs into “heel,” leaving the ground to the careful favourite. Teach the present lesson well, and you go far towards attaining the desired result.
52. I trust you will not object to the minutiæ of these initiatory lessons, and fancy you have not time to attend to them. By teaching them well, you will gain time,—much time,—and the time that is of most value to you as a sportsman; for when your dog is regularly hunting to your gun, his every faculty ought to be solely devoted to finding birds, and his undisturbed intellects exclusively given to aid you in bagging them, instead of being bewildered by an endeavour to comprehend novel signals or words of command. I put it to you as a sportsman, whether he will not have the more delight and ardour in hunting, the more he feels that he understands your instructions? and, further, I ask you, whether he will not be the more sensitively alive to the faintest indication of a haunt, and more readily follow it up to a sure find, if he be unembarrassed by any anxiety to make out what you mean, and be in no way alarmed at the consequences of not almost instinctively understanding your wishes?
THE CHECK—‘HOLD HARD!’
CHECKCORD DESCRIBED.
53. In all these lessons, and those which follow in the field, the checkcord will wonderfully assist you. Indeed, it may be regarded as the instructor’s right hand. It can be employed so mildly as not to intimidate the most gentle, and it can, without the aid of any whip, be used with such severity, or, I should rather say, perseverance, as to conquer the most wild and headstrong, and these are sure to be dogs of the greatest travel and endurance. The cord may be from ten to twenty-five[13] yards long, according to the animal’s disposition, and may be gradually shortened as he gets more and more under command. Even when it is first employed you can put on a shorter cord, if you perceive that he is becoming tired. In thick stubble, especially if cut with a sickle, the drag will be greater, far greater than when the cord glides over heather. The cord may be of the thickness of what some call strong lay-cord, but made of twelve threads. Sailors would know it by the name of log-line or cod-line. To save the end from fraying it can be whipped with thread, which is better than tying a knot because it is thus less likely to become entangled.
SPANIELS BROKEN IN.
54. Hunted with such a cord, the most indomitable dog, when he is perfectly obedient to the “drop,” is nearly as amenable to command, as if the end of the line were in the breaker’s hand. By no other means can
SPANIELS
be quickly broken in. The general object of the trainer is to restrain them from ranging at a distance likely to spring game out of gun-shot, and to