side. If removal is not necessary for repair, it is best left in place.
13. Restrain the hammer, and push out the slide-lock cross pin toward either side.
14. Ease the hammer forward, move the slide-lock assembly forward, and take it off upward. The slide lock-spring is easily detached.
15. Restrain the hammer, and push out the hammer pin toward either side.
16. Remove the hammer assembly toward the front. The twin-hammer springs, spring guides, and the spring-base cross pin are easily detached from the hammer.
17. Push out the sear cross pin, and remove the sear upward.
18. Move the action slide to align the bolt with the trigger group recesses in the receiver, and lift the bolt slide piece at the rear for removal. Take out the action bar assembly toward the front. Separating the action bar from the forend wood requires a special tool for the retaining nut at the front, and it is best left in place except for repair.
19. Remove the bolt from the receiver.
20. Drifting out this roll pin will allow removal of the locking block from the bolt.
21. The firing pin is retained by a vertical roll pin at the rear of the bolt.
22. This roll pin retains the extractor and its coil spring. As the roll-pin drift is taken out, restrain the extractor
23. To keep the tool centered in the cross-pin depression, use a roll-pin punch to drift out the carrier pin. Use a 5/32 punch.
24. The carrier-pin retainer will be freed inside the receiver for removal.
25. Remove the carrier.
26. Given the precise mating of the manual safety post with the safety stud on the trigger, this system should not be disassembled routinely. It is retained by a 5/16-inch nut inside the receiver, and there is an adjustment screw inside the nut. The safety button and its plunger and spring are taken off upward. Again, amateur disassembly of this system is not recommended.
Some notes here on three other items, one of which could not be photographed inside the receiver: The rear continuation of the sighting rib on the top front of the receiver is internally retained by two vertical screws. The buttstock is retained by a through-bolt from the rear, accessible by removal of the buttplate. The magazine spring and follower can be removed by carefully prying out the retainer at the front of the magazine tube. Caution: Keep the retainer and spring under control.
Reassembly Tips:
1. When installing the sear cross pin, remember that the squared recesses on the pin must go toward the front, to mate with the hammer springs.
2. When installing the trigger cross pin, use a tool with a notched tip to depress the rear arm of the slide-lock spring to go beneath the pin.
3. Note that the sear spring has a slightly larger coil at one end, and that end goes at the front, lo mate with the stud on the sear.
4. Before the trigger group is put back into the receiver, be sure the stepped ends of the hammer cross pin are turned to the position shown. Also, it will be necessary to hold the shell stops in their recesses in the receiver as the trigger group is moved into place.
Browning Superposed
Similar/Identical Pattern Guns The same basic assembly/disassembly steps for the Browning Superposed also apply to the following guns:
Browning Citori
Browning ST-100
Browning B-27
Browning Lightning
Browning Liege
Browning B-25
Browning 8-1 25
| Data: | Browning Superposed Over/Under |
| Origin: | Belgium |
| Manufacturer: | Fabrique Nationale, Herstal (FN) for Browning Morgan, Utah |
| Gauges: | 12,20,28,410 |
| Overall length: | 46 inches(with 30-inch barrel) |
| Barrel length: | 26-112 to 32 inches |
| Weight: | 6 3/8 to 8 pounds |
One of John M. Browning's last designs, the Superposed shotgun has been made since 1927, and is still in production. In 1974 a lower priced model called the Liege was introduced, and was made for about 2 years. A second moderately-priced version, the Citori, was offered in 1975, and is still in production. The