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7. Remove the ejector spring and its guide. If the drift is removed, the spring will be freed, so control it.
8. Remove the ejector lever.
9. Remove the ejector toward the rear.
10. Remove the buttplate screws, and take off the buttplate. Use a long-shanked screwdriver to remove the stock retaining bolt. Remove the buttstock from the receiver.
11. Depress the hammer slightly until the cross hole in the hammer spring guide aligns with the groove in the receiver post at the rear, and insert a drift through the hole to trap the hammer spring.
12. Pull the trigger, and push the hammer forward. Tilt the hammer spring assembly outward at the front and remove it. If the drift is taken out of the guide, control the powerful hammer spring.
13. Remove the vertical screws at the front and rear of the trigger guard.
14. Remove the trigger guard downward.
15. Drift out the hammer cross pin toward the right. Note that the cross pins are splined at the right tip, and all must be drifted out toward the right to avoid damage to the receiver. When the hammer pin is removed, two bushings or spacers will be released on each side of the hammer..
16. Remove the hammer upward.
17. Removal of the hammer will allow the trigger to pivot beyond its usual position, relieving its spring tension. Drift out the trigger cross pin, and remove the trigger and its spring downward.
18. If the barrel latch is to be removed, the button must first be taken off by drifting out its small cross pin. Since this is a steel pin in a polymer part, it should be removed only for repair purposes.
19. After the button is removed, it will be necessary to drift out the firing pin cross pin, and take out the firing pin and its spring toward the rear before proceeding.
20. If the latch button and the firing pin and spring have been taken out (they are in place here), then drifting out the latch pivot pin will allow the barrel latch and its torsion spring to be taken out toward the rear, within the receiver.
Reassembly Tips:
1. When replacing the cross pins in the receiver, remember that the pins have splined tips on the right side, and they must be driven in toward the left. When installing the hammer, fit the spacers on the pin as it is driven across. Be sure the trigger is positioned correctly.
2. When installing the trigger guard, slightly depress the barrel latch button to properly align the screw holes.
3. When installing the forend, be sure the head of the forend latch is centered on the hook on the barrel before closing the forend into place.
EAA Baikal IZH-18
| Data: | EAA Baikal IZH-18 |
| Origin: | Russia |
| Manufacturer: | lzhevsky Mechanichesky Zavod, Izhevsk, Russia |
| Gauges: | 12, 16,20, and .410 |
| Overall length: | 44-1/2 inches |
| Barrel length: | 28-1/2 inches(others offered) |
| Weight: | 6.4to 6.6 pounds |
European American Armory began importing this fine little single-shot in 1998. Modestly priced, it has excellent workmanship and some outstanding features. Two of these are a selective ejector and a decocking system. Two versions are offered - a plain gun, and the one shown here, with a ventilated rib and a plated receiver.
Disassembly:
1. Open and close the action to cock the internal hammer. Put the manual safety in on-safe position. Pull the forend latch lever outward, and tip the forend away from the barrel for removal. Operate the barrel latch, and separate the barrel unit from the receiver.
2. The two rear Phillips screws in the forend retain the forend iron, and it is taken out rearward. Note that the rear screw has a separate escutcheon.
3. Taking out the front screw will allow removal of the forend latch. Note that this screw is threaded into an oblong washer on the inside. The three forend screws are not identical so keep them separate for reassembly.
4. The forend latch is retained by a cross pin. The blade-type spring is staked in place, and should be removed only for repair.
5. The ejector sear is pivoted and retained by a cross pin. Caution: