This nicely-made over/under was introduced by European American Armory in 1999. Its good balance and relatively low price have made it quite popular. As with most over/under guns, it is somewhat more complicated than other types of shotguns. The amateur should approach total takedown with caution.
Disassembly:
1. Open and close the action to cock the internal hammers. Pull the forend latch lever outward, and tip the forend downward for removal. Operate the barrel latch, tip the barrel unit downward, and remove it upward.
2. The forend iron is retained by two screws, on the inside and outside. The outside screw has an escutcheon, which may come off with the screw. Remove both screws, and take out the forend iron toward the rear.
3. The ejector sears are pivoted and retained by small screws. As the screws are removed, the coil sear springs will be released, so control them.
4. Remove the forward inside screw, and push the forend latch assembly outward for removal. Note that this screw has a small washer, and take care that it is not lost. The three forend screws are not identical, so keep them separate for reassembly.
5. Drifting out this cross pin will free the forend latch lever. The blade-type spring is staked in place in its slot, and is removed only for repair.
6. Restrain the ejector at the rear- (Caution: The spring is very strong.) and lift the front of the ejector very slightly, just enough to free it for rearward movement.
7. When the ejector has moved far enough to the rear to clear its dovetailed portion, it can be lifted off. The plunger and coil spring can then be removed. Repeat this operation for the other ejector.
8. Restrain the barrel latch lever, and use a tool or fingertip inside the receiver to trip the latch detent. Allow the lever to move back to center.
9. Remove the two screws at the rear and take off the recoil pad. Use a B-Square stock wrench, as shown, or a screwdriver, to back out the stock mounting bolt. The stock is not yet ready for removal.
10. Remove the small Phillips wood screw at the rear of the trigger guard, and take off the buttstock toward the rear.
11. Unscrew the trigger guard (counter-clockwise, bottom view) and remove it.
12. Insert a slim tool (or a piece of wire) through the cross-hole in the hammer spring guide at the rear. Do this on the right side first, as the right one is the first to fire. Move the safety to off-safe position, and pull the trigger to drop the hammer to fired position. If it doesn't go all the way forward, push it there.
13. Tilt the guide and the trapped spring outward at the front, and remove it. It is possible, using locking pliers and a slightly-opened vise, to take off the spring. If you do this - Caution: The spring is fully compressed. Repeat these two steps to remove the other spring. To release the left hammer, it may be necessary to manually move the sear upward.
14. Drift the hammer pivot pin toward the left until it clears the right hammer.
15. Tip the hammer back, and lift it at the front to clear its side pin from the recess in the cooking rod, freeing it for removal.
16. The cocking rod can now be taken out toward the rear. After drifting the hammer pivot the rest of the way out, repeat these steps to remove the left hammer and cocking rod. Keep the parts for each side separate for reassembly.
17. The upper and lower firing pins are now accessible for removal. The retaining cross pins are drifted out, and the firing pins and their coil return springs are taken out toward the rear. Control the parts during removal, as the springs are partially com-rear. pressed and these small parts are easily lost. If removal is not necessary for repair, leave them in place. If the firing pins are removed, note that they are not interchangeable.
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