SMLE No. I, Mark I Carbine
British SMLE No. I, Mark II*
British SMLE No. I, Mark II***
British SMLE No. I, Mark IV
British SMLE No. 2, Mark IV (22 RF)
British No. 4, Mark 1
British No. 4, Mark ½
British No. 4, Mark 1 (T)
British No. 4, Mark 2
British No. 5, Mark 1
British SMLE Cal. 22 R.F. Short Rifle Mark III
Century International Arms Enfield Sporter No. 4
Indian SMLE No. I, Mark III* (Ishapore Arsenal)
Data: | British SMLE No. 1, |
Mark III | |
Origin: | England |
Manufacturer: | British military arsenals |
Cartridge: | 303 British |
Magazine capacity: | 10 rounds |
Overall length: | 44-½ inches |
Barrel length: | 25.19 inches |
Weight: | 8.62 pounds |
In the bewildering array of “numbers” and “marks,” the Lee-Enfield rifle was the mainstay of the British military from 1895 to 1951. One version that is familiar to most U.S. shooters in the No. 1, Mark III rifle, as many of these were sold as surplus after World War II. For the benefit of those who came in late, “SMLE” is an abbreviation for “Short, Magazine, Lee-Enfield.” Although the rifle was replaced in British service by the semi-auto L1A1 (FN-FAL) in 1951, the old SMLE is still in use in many former British colonies and in other parts of the world.
Disassembly:
1. Remove the magazine. Open the bolt, and move it all the way to the rear. Lift the bolt head lug on the right side, disengaging it from the detent spring on the receiver, and turn it up to vertical position. Withdraw the bolt from the rear of the receiver. Some amount of pressure may be needed to turn the bolt head, but be sure that the bolt is fully to the rear before exerting force.
2. The bolt head is removed by simply unscrewing it from the front of the bolt, counter-clockwise (front view).
3. Insert a small-diameter tool in the hole in the outer surface of the bolt head lug, and push gently inward to disengage the extractor spring stud from its recess. The spring can then be pushed out toward the front. Caution:The spring is under tension. Control it, and ease it out.
4. The extractor is retained in the bolt head by a cross screw. After the screw is taken out, the extractor is removed toward the front.
5. Remove the screw in the rear face of the cocking piece, at the rear of the bolt.
6. Removal of the striker/firing pin unit requires a special tool, easily made from brass or steel tubing having a ⅜-inch outside diameter. The working end of the tool is filed as shown in step 7, leaving twin projections which are designed to engage the recesses on the striker collar. The tool is inserted into the front of the bolt, and the striker unit is unscrewed from the knob at the rear. Caution:Keep firm inward pressure during this operation, as the tension of the striker spring will be released when the threads are cleared.
7. Remove the striker and its spring from the front of the bolt.
8. When the striker is released toward the front, the cocking knob will be freed at the rear, and will simply drop off.
9. Remove the cross screw from the stock nose-cap. Remove the vertical screw on the underside of the nose-cap, located just to the rear of the bayonet mount. Then remove the stock nose-cap toward the front.
10. Remove the vertical screw on the underside of the stock, just forward of the magazine well.
11. Remove the cross screw at the rear of the trigger guard, and take off the trigger guard unit downward and toward the rear.
12. Pushing out the cross pin will release the trigger for removal upward.
13. Remove the cross screw in the rear stock/barrel band, releasing the sling loop, and spread the band (it is hinged at the top) for removal upward. This will allow the front handguard wood to be taken off toward the front and upward.
14. Remove the vertical screw on the underside of the stock, just to the rear of the rear band. The front lower section of the stock can now be moved forward and taken off.
15. Remove the forend stud and its spring from their well inside the stock, near the muzzle end.
16. The rear sight guard is retained in the stock by a vertical screw, and is removed upward.
17. If removal of the buttstock is necessary, you must first use a sharpened bent wire (such as an opened coat hanger) to extract the leather washer that covers the head of the stock bolt. After this is removed, use a B-Square stock tool or a large screwdriver to back out the stock bolt, and take