toward the rear. Enfield stock bolts are often rusted in place, and some effort may be required to effect removal.
18. The rear upper handguard wood is retained on top of the barrel by twin spring-clips, and is carefully snapped off upward toward the rear. Raise the rear sight when taking off the handguard, and take care not to break the two slim front handguard projections.
19. Remove the screw on the right side of the receiver that retains the bolt head latch spring. This screw is also the pivot and retainer for the sear, and will release the sear and the combination sear and magazine catch spring for removal toward the rear and downward.
20. After the screw has been partially backed out, use pliers to slightly compress the spring, as shown, to ease removal of the screw.
21. Drifting out the cross pin will release the magazine catch for removal downward.
22. Pivoting the rear sight up to the vertical position will expose the mounting screw for the rear sight spring. After the spring is removed, the cross pin can be drifted out to free the rear sight assembly. This pin is usually semi-riveted at each end, and is best left in place unless removal is necessary for repair.
23. Removal of the screw at the lower end of the safety spring on the left side will allow the spring to be taken off, and the safety-lever and locking bolt can then be moved toward the left and taken out. The bolt lock piece is easily taken off the safety-lever shaft by turning it around the shaft.
Reassembly Tips:
When replacing the trigger guard assembly, be sure the upper arm of the trigger is inserted behind the lower arm of the sear.
When replacing the safety system, turn the bolt lock on its fast helical threads until it is against the inner face of the lever, and hold it in this position while reinserting the assembly into the receiver, with the lever in its off-safe position.
When replacing the extractor spring in the bolt head, be sure the rear elbow of the spring enters the outer hole at the rear, and not the inner hole, where the extractor is pivoted.
When turning the striker shaft back into the cocking piece, be sure the rear tip of the shaft is level with the rear face of the cocking piece, as near as possible with proper alignment of the cut for the stop screw. This adjustment is critical, as it controls the protrusion of the firing pin point at the breech face. The protrusion should be no more than .055-inch and no less than .050-inch for proper primer contact.
Browning BAR
| Data: | Browning BAR |
| Origin: | Belgium |
| Manufacturer: | Fabrique Nationale, |
| Herstal, for Browning, | |
| Morgan, Utah | |
| Cartridges: | 243, 270, 280, 30-06, |
| 308, 7mm Remington Magnum, | |
| 300 Winchester Magnum, | |
| 338 Winchester Magnum | |
| Magazine capacity: | 4 rounds (3 in magnum) |
| Overall length: | 43 and 45 inches |
| Barrel length: | 22 and 24 inches |
| Weight: | 7-⅜ and 8-⅜ pounds |
The factory designation of this gas-operated semi-auto sporter has caused a little confusion, as the famed military selective-fire gun was also called the “BAR.” The sleek sporting rifle was introduced in 1967, and it is still in production. The gun has been offered in several grades, the price depending on the extent of stock checkering, carving, engraving, and inlay work. Regardless of the grade, the mechanical details are the same, and the instructions will apply.
Disassembly:
1. With the empty magazine in place, pull back the cocking handle to lock the bolt in open position. With a small wrench or a pair of smooth-jawed pliers, unscrew the front sling swivel base on the underside of the forend near the forward end.
2. Tip the front of the forend downward until firm resistance is felt, then move it forward and off. Do this carefully, and use no extreme force, or the forend will be damaged.
3. Slide the right and left action rod support rails out of the receiver toward the front, and remove them.
4. Disengage the forward ends of the action bars form the studs on the sides of the inertia block, and take the bars out toward the front.
5. Remove the gas regulator from the front end of the gas cylinder. A ⅝”-inch open-end wrench will fit the side flats of the regulator, and it is simply unscrewed. Be sure the wrench is properly engaged to prevent marring. Take care not to lose the lock washer behind the gas regulator.
6. Remove the gas piston toward the front. If the piston is very tight, it may have to be nudged from the rear with a drift punch. If this is necessary, be very careful, as any burrs raised will cause the system to malfunction. If the piston won't move with the use of reasonable force, soak it for a time in a good powder solvent or penetrant.
7. Firmly grip the action spring guide at the rear, and lift its rear tip out of its seat in the front of the receiver. Remove the guide, spring, and inertia block toward the rear. Caution: Keep a firm grip on the partially compressed spring, and ease it off.
8. Open