WINTER CLIMBS IN THE CAIRNGORMS
THE CAIRNGORMS AND CREAG MEAGAIDH
by
Allen Fyffe and Blair Fyffe
2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA, LA7 7PY
About the Authors
Allen Fyffe has been an active mountaineer for over 40 years. During part of that time he was an instructor and guide, and now is the Executive Secretary of Mountain Leader Training Scotland, involved in the administration of mountaineering and climbing qualifications in Scotland. Allen has been involved in every aspect of mountaineering and climbing, and in Scotland has climbed over 200 new routes in both summer and winter. In the Alps he made the first British ascent of the North Face of Les Droites, an early British ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, and the first winter ascent of the Central Spur of Les Courtes. In the Himalaya he made a two-man first ascent of the South-West Flank of Kalanka and the Scottish Pillar on Bhagirathi III. He has also been a member of expeditions to Dhaulaghiri IV, Everest South-West Face and Everest North-East Ridge, Meru and Broad Peak.
Along with Iain Peter he made an early British ascent of Khan Tengri in the Tien Shan and the first British ascent of Pik Pobeda. The two wrote the highly acclaimed Handbook of Climbing and, more recently, with Andy Cunningham, he wrote Winter Skills for Mountain Leader Training UK. Allen has also climbed in Canada, Peru and on the big walls in Yosemite and Zion. He continues to be active, especially in the Cairngorms, where he has been involved in the production of several guidebooks.
Blair Fyffe has been climbing and mountaineering since a young age, and has been involved in all aspects of the sport from bouldering to big-wall and expedition climbing. He has rock climbed extensively throughout Britain and mainland Europe to a high standard (E7 and French 8b). In winter Blair has made numerous first ascents and early repeats. His first ascents include Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner (VII, 7) and the first winter ascent of Knuckleduster (VIII, 9), both on Ben Nevis.
Beyond Britain Blair has climbed new winter routes in the Lofoten Islands of artic Norway and new alpine routes in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan. He has also climbed in the European Alps and on the big walls of Yosemite Valley. In 2006 Blair completed a PhD in slab-avalanche release at Edinburgh University. He now works as a forecaster for sportscotland Avalanche Information Service during the winter months. During the summer he does a variety of jobs, including mountain leader, countryside ranger and research associate for Edinburgh University.
© Allen Fyffe and Blair Fyffe 2011
Sixth edition 2011
ISBN: 978 1 85284 622 0
Fifth edition 2000, Fourth edition 1987, Third edition 1981 (all by Allen Fyffe)
Second edition (with John Cunningham) 1976, First edition (John Cunningham) 1973
Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs are by the authors unless otherwise stated.
Advice to readers
While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. If we know of any, there will be an Updates tab on this book’s page on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.
Warning
Mountain climbing can be a dangerous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, materially affecting the seriousness of a climb. Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the authors accept liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book. If you need to raise the alarm, dial 999 and ask for Mountain Rescue, give your number to the police and remain switched on until the rescue team arrives or you are given the all clear to switch off.
Front cover: Neil Johnson on the top pitch of Swan Song (Fiacaill Buttress, Coire an t-Sneachda)
CONTENTS
Overview map
Coire an Lochain
Number 1 Buttress
Number 2 Buttress
Number 3 Buttress
Number 4 Buttress
Lurcher’s Crag (Creag an Leth-Choin)