Flybe has regular services from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Manchester and Benbecula that link with national and internal flights. For further information 0871 700 0535 or www.flybe.com;
Eastern Airways has a daily flight from Monday to Friday from Aberdeen. For further information 08703 669 100 or www.easternairways.com.
By sea
Caledonia MacBrayne operates daily ferries on the following routes:
from Ullapool on the Scottish mainland into Stornoway – journey time 2hrs 30mins;
from Uig on the Isle of Skye into Tarbert, Harris – journey time 1hr 50mins. Sunday services during on the winter timetable sail via Lochmaddy with a journey time of 4hrs 15mins;
from Berneray in North Uist into Leverburgh, Harris – journey time 1hr.
To save the disappointment of being left on the quayside, reservations are recommended for vehicles especially during the summer months, although this is not necessary for foot passengers. Since the autumn of 2008 Road Equivalent Pricing is being tested on certain routes, where ferry fares are based on the equivalent cost of road travel. If this remains a permanent fixture and new attractions, such as the Isle of Harris Distillery, appeal to new types of visitor, the Outer Hebrides may become much more of a magnet for tourists. Then it may become imperative to make a reservation. For further information contact 08000 665 000 or see www.calmac.co.uk.
You will undoubtedly have to schedule your travel to coincide with ferry departure times and one of the usual ways of getting to the Outer Hebrides is to drive through the night and take an early morning ferry. With two people sharing the driving it is possible to take advantage of the relatively empty roads and make good progress, freshening up with a shower on the ferry before enjoying a full Scottish breakfast in the cafeteria. It should be borne in mind that north of the main motorway network around Glasgow and Edinburgh there are few 24hr filling stations other than Fort William and Inverness, so keep an eye on the fuel gauge.
Approaching Tarbert on the ferry from Skye
Although Ullapool to Stornoway is by far the busiest ferry route, Uig to Tarbert is a personal favourite for a number of reasons. Travelling from the south the scenery is better, with views of Glencoe and the Cuillins on a clear day. At about 90mins, the crossing itself is just the right length with lots of interest out at sea: the Ascrib Islands in Loch Snizort as you leave Uig; the Fladdachuain off the north coast of Skye; and the Shiants as you get closer to Harris. With the help of binoculars it is possible to pick out the house that the writer Compton Mackenzie had re-roofed during the period 1926–7 when he owned the Shiants. If that is not sufficient reason to favour this route, the fare is also a few pounds cheaper than the Ullapool to Stornaway crossing.
By rail
It is quite possible to get to Lewis and Harris by rail. Heading for Harris, the rail network terminates at Kyle of Lochalsh, but a bus service connects directly with the ferry terminal at Uig on the Isle of Skye. Likewise, if heading for Lewis, a bus service links Inverness station directly with the ferry terminal at Ullapool.
For further information, contact Scotrail on 0845 601 5929 or see https://www.scotrail.co.uk/. This service does not carry bicycles, so if you are cycling you can either take the train as far as Garve and then cycle to Ullapool or use the Highland Cycle Bus that runs from Inverness to Durness via Ullapool in the tourist season. Phone 01463 222444 or see www.decoaches.co.uk for times and bookings. For further information contact Scotrail on 0845 601 5929 or see www.firstgroup.com/scotrail.
Getting around
In your own car
There are some 320km (200 miles) of road on Lewis and Harris. Some of it, like the descent from North Harris into Tarbert, is of an exceptionally good standard. Other stretches, such as the road around the eastern Bay area of Harris, tend to be narrow and winding. Having a vehicle on the island makes getting around to the more remote parts very easy. However, the only filling stations in Harris are at Leverburgh, Tarbert and Ardhasaig and the only ones in Lewis are at Stornoway, Kershader, Lower Barvas, Leurbost, Uig, Cros and Bernera, with only one in Stornoway and the one on Bernera currently open on Sundays. Fuel also costs around 10p a litre more than on the mainland.
Passing places – essential on the miles of single-track roads on Harris and Lewis
By rented vehicle
If you arrive by air you will probably need to rent a car. There are vehicle rental companies based in Stornoway and Arnol.
| Stornoway | |
| Car Hire Hebrides | Tel: 01851 706500 |
| Lewis Car Rentals | Tel: 01851 706500 |
| MacKinnon Self Drive | Tel: 01851 702984 |
| Stornoway Car Hire | Tel: 01851 702658 |
| Arnol | |
| Arnol Motors | Tel: 01851 700044 |
| Tarbert | |
| Isle of Harris Car Hire | Tel: 07825 222020 |
Car and van hire is available at the airport through Stornoway Car Hire. See www.stornowaycarhire.co.uk for further information or telephone 01851 702658.
Taxis are available at the airport and the airport bus service runs at regular intervals throughout the day. Contact 01851 702256 for the latest timetables.
By bus
If you plan your itinerary well it is possible to visit the island and get around using public transport. Even if you bring your own car, you may still need to use a bus to get to the start of a linear walk. Different routes are operated by a range of operators and the service timetable changes during school holidays. The complete timetable is available online at www.cne-siar.gov.uk/travel and if you are planning to make use of them during your stay, it is probably better to print out a complete set and bring it with you. Many services begin or end at Stornoway bus station, which can be contacted at 01851 704327. Otherwise Stornoway Tourist Information Office (01851 703 088) or Harris Tourist Information Office (01859 502 011) can provide information during opening hours.
By cycle
It costs nothing to take a cycle on the ferry and it makes an ideal way to get around, especially if you are camping or hostelling. Alternatively, cycles can be hired at Alex Dan’s Cycle Centre (01851 704 025) and Bike Hebrides (07775 943 355) in Stornoway, and at Harris Cycle Hire (01859 520 319) and Harris Outdoor Adventure (07788 425 157) in Leverburgh.
Where to stay
Both Lewis and Harris offer a range of hotels, guest houses, B&Bs and hostels, so there is something to suit most pockets. If you prefer self-catering accommodation there are numerous holiday homes in all parts of the islands and this may be a more economical option for larger parties.
The cheapest option is a tent and this also gives the flexibility to move around. Although the right to roam means you can camp anywhere in Scotland, if you want amenities such as toilets and showers the only choices