Walking on Harris and Lewis. Richard Barrett

      An Cliseam from Airidh a Bhruaich on the border of Harris and Lewis (Walk 11)

      For many years North Harris was owned by private landlords. Although the area did not suffer unduly under this arrangement, in 2003 the crofters and tenants established the North Harris Trust and secured funding to buy 58,000 acres of land and effectively become their own landlords. Since then, the Trust has grown to include the 7,472-acre Loch Seaforth Estate and the Isle of Scalpay. The Trust has numerous projects for the considered regeneration of North Harris, including providing low-cost housing for rent, tree planting, building a small wind farm to generate electricity for local consumption and restoring the old footpaths and drove roads. Despite stalling at the final hurdle with the first attempt back in 2009, the community still has aspirations of becoming Scotland’s third National Park, and it is difficult to envisage a more worthy contender.

WALK 1

      Ceapabhal and Toe Head

Start/Finish	At the road end in Northton (NF986904)
Distance	14km/9 miles
Climb	612m/2004ft
Time	4½ – 5hrs
Highest point	Ceapabhal 368m/1207ft
Maps	OS Explorer 455; OS Landranger 18
Refreshments	The Temple Café in Northton opens every day including Sundays

      A cursory glance at the map may suggest that this is a short, half-day route of easy walking and a modest peak. However, the climb is nearly 400m straight up from sea level and other than traversing the machair at the start and end of the walk, the going is difficult all the way. This is ‘yomping’ territory – either striding across knee-high heather or negotiating peat bog. However, do not be put off. The walk includes a mix of history, natural sea arches and stunning views over the Sound of Harris – and possibly out to St Kilda on a clear day. The return route looks out on to the brilliant white sands of Scarista beach and the Northton saltings which are home to many waders, including golden plover during the winter months. All of this makes the walk a miniature gem.

      Rather than take up customer spaces at the café, park considerately along the road. Walk north-west to the end of the road then carry straight on along the track for 800m to a gate where paths go off in different directions. These pastures are part of the machair, a low-level coastal plain that runs along much of the Atlantic coast of the Outer Hebrides. It is formed by the wind blowing fine sand that is high in shell content onto the boggier acidic grasslands. This results in a rich fertile pasture able to support livestock and a multitude of wild flowers which clothe the ground during late spring and early summer. The gate that leads out onto the machair has an arrow pointing left to indicate the track that leads to the Teampaill. Follow this track as it heads west through the dunes and behind a series of small sandy bays. The Teampaill soon comes into sight sticking out on the headland.

      TEAMPAILL

      Standing beside the remains of an older dun, which probably provided much of the materials, the present Teampaill or chapel dates from 1528 when it was built by Alasdair Crotach, Chief of the MacLeods in the same year that he built the church at Roghadal. The roof would have been thatched with reeds from the nearby stream and the interior whitewashed with lime-rich shell sand. Being accessible for those living on the rich western coastal machair and the then populous islands of Pabbay and Berneray to the south, it served as the parish church for the whole of Harris before falling into disuse in the early 16th century.

      There is no obvious path to the summit of Ceapabhal and any ascent is going to be arduous. Follow the coast line to the west to a stile across a stone wall. Cross this and then strike out up the hill following a band of pinkish rock that rises left to right across the hillside. This is hard going and anyone who is not a trained athlete will need frequent rests to recover their breath. It is best just to take it slowly and enjoy the view over the islands in the Sound of Harris and hills of North Uist beyond.

      East ridge of Ceapabhal

      Following this rock band leads around to the main ridge and eventually to easier ground that leads directly to the summit of Ceapabhal, which means ‘the bow-shaped hill’ in Norse. There is a trig point and a cairn marks the summit a few metres to the north. At 368m this is a modest hill, but the views are memorable. Taransay and the white sands of Tràigh Losgaintir and the other beaches of South Harris lie to the north-east; the now uninhabited islands of Ensay, Killegray and Pabbay and a multitude of smaller islets are scattered across the Sound of Harris to the south with Berneray and North Uist beyond. Four kilometres offshore just to the west of Pabbay lies the small island of Siolaigh, a haul-out ground for Atlantic seals. If it is particularly clear look for the Cuillin of Skye, 80km to the south-east, and the island of St Kilda, 72km away to the west.

      Ceapabhal and Taobh Tuath (Northton) from the summit of Greaval

      Head off north-west to cross a boggy bealach (Gaelic for pass or col) and gain a second cairned summit marked with a spot height of 339m. Continue heading north-west, keeping to the drier and easier walking along the ridge on the left until you reach the flatter ground at Toe Head. The return route takes you clockwise along the coast and if you want a diversion, you could visit the natural sea arches around the headland. There are four sea arches in total, but only two are marked on the Landranger series of maps.

      Unless it has been dry for some time, the going can be quaggy all the way until Sgeir Leomadail. The word ‘quaggy’ probably describes much of the low-level terrain of Harris and Lewis better than any other. The word ‘boggy’ suggests that you run the risk of getting your feet and lower legs plastered in mud or black peat and in certain areas this can undoubtedly happen. But for the most part, the underlying layers of peat and moss mean that the ground is just springy and yielding (quaggy). It is best to move fast across such terrain, because if you stand still for too long, you are sure to sink into it and get a wet foot. But the views of the Harris Hills and the prospect of wildlife more than compensate for the possibility of a sodden sock.