onto Via dei Tintori. In just 1½ blocks you see the raised sidewalk alongside the Arno River. Cross the street and follow this sidewalk past the busy riverside hotels, with the old tower of Florenced’s original walls visible across the river. Car traffic crosses the Arno on successive bridges. Before the second bridge find a footpath down to the dirt trail alongside the river. This path will take you all the way out of urban Florence.
Not long after crossing under the railway bridge come to the town of San Jacopo al Girone (6.7km). At the entry to town and just before a childrend’s outdoor play area, turn left off the path and follow Via del Girone alongside the railroad tracks for two long blocks to the stoplight and piazza at the center of town. Cross left, under the tracks, and then veer right onto the white brick sidewalk of Via San Jacopo. At the end of the sidewalk turn left and follow Via dei Bassi as it winds its narrow way uphill along stone walls and through olive groves. At the second right, turn onto Via della Rosa which traverses the hillside then descends with views of Compiobbi below. Follow the road downhill past the railroad tracks where it finally ends at Strada Proviniciale 110 in Compiobbi (10km).
Now turn right at the Strada Provinciale, cross under the railroad tracks and then cross the Via Arentina highway. Here the official path heads back up into the hills, but a shorter and quieter option is across the street. Here in the small piazza are a bank, restaurant and cafá/bar.Take the trail just past the newspaper kiosk at the right side of the piazza along the slow and lazy Arno River. In 300m turn left at a yellow utility tower and walk the steps up to the protected walk beside the highway. In 400m you come to the riverside town of Ellera. Continue as the walkway becomes a sidewalk and then briefly rejoin the highway at a traffic circle in the town of Le Falle.
Just after the traffic circle look for a new, nondescript, yellow church on the left side of the road. Immediately after this turn left onto tiny Via Le Folle. Cross under the railroad tracks and cross the pedestrian bridge that spans the creek.
The official route rejoins here. Follow the walkway, then turn left at its end and follow Via Gricigliano uphill beside a yellow apartment building. At the fork in 300m turn right onto Via Paretaio.
The road veers to the right and in 700m crosses back under the railroad bridge. Turn left at the highway and carefully follow it on the left shoulder for 200m to the town of Sieci (13.4km). Walk on the highwayd’s sidewalk and cross the Arno tributary on the highway bridge. Just after the bridge, turn right onto the pedestrian walkway along the river.
The flat, gravel path along the Arno River makes for a relaxing and tranquil walk
Follow this trail to enjoy the last quiet moments along the beautiful Arno. Turn left, away from the river, at Via Toscanini after the park and continue across the Via Arentina highway at a roundabout. Cross under the railroad tracks on the right side of the road and immediately make a hard right, doubling back to a dirt road that follows alongside the tracks. Follow this road until it ends at a house.
Looking down toward Compiobbi
Turn left and aim uphill on the gravel road past a yellow, concrete utility tower. Turn right at the tower and follow the dirt road across the hillside among vineyards. The road turns right again to head down toward the tracks and when it is near, back up a path to the left that goes through a small woods. Soon come to a gravel road which you follow right and downhill. The gravel road becomes concrete as it enters the outskirts of Pontassieve.
Stay on this road as it passes a small piazza and then veers right and downhill, ending at the Via Gualdo Reni. Turn left here and follow the road through the Porta Fiorentina city gate, finding Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II on the right.
PONTASSIEVE 108MPOP 20,622
Central Pontassieve
In the Middle Ages, Pontassieve was called ‘Castel Sant’Angelo’ for the Florentine castle built here. The town later became known for its strategic bridge across the Sieve River, which opened to Florence the territories of Mugello and Casentino. By the 18th century Pontassieve’s location made it a regional economic hub, and in the 19th and 20th centuries the railroad made it an industrial center. Its economic importance led the Allies to bomb the town repeatedly during World War II. Although none of its medieval features remain, the town was rebuilt along its medieval lines, with winding roads that follow the contours of the riverbank. The modern town hall is built on the foundations of the original medieval castle, and Via Ghiberti, the bustling, central commercial road, connects it with the Sieve bridge as in days past. Today, Pontassieve is a hub for artisanal leather, Chianti wine, olive oil, and handmade glass and pottery.
Pilgrims receive a warm reception at Leonardo’s Rooms B&B (Via Piave 7, tel 360 923824, [email protected], €45/60/70/80. Hearty pilgrim breakfast). Also convenient is Toscani da Sempre (Via Fratelli Monzecchi 13/15, tel 558 392952, [email protected], €50/70). In the lower town, by the river, is Hotel i Villini (Viale Armando Diaz 28, tel 055 8368140, [email protected], from €40).
STAGE 2
Pontassieve to Passo della Consuma
| Start | Piazza Vittorio Emanuel II, Pontassieve |
| Finish | Main piazza, Consuma |
| Distance | 17.8km |
| Total ascent | 1021m |
| Total descent | 138m |
| Difficulty | Hard |
| Duration | 6hrs |
| Note | The sole possibility for refreshment after Pontassieve is the bar at Diacceto, so it may be wise to bring provisions for the whole day. |
A constant uphill track takes you from vineyards into the forests that will be your setting for the next five days. Today’s climb is to the top of a saddle of mountains that separate two sections of the Arno River. Although about two-thirds of today’s walk is on pavement, the often-spectacular views over vineyards and through forests to the green mountains of the Central Apennine range make this an enjoyable stage.
From Piazza Vittorio Emanuel II walk toward the Municipale and turn right onto Via Tanzini. Go under the clock tower arch and veer left as the road becomes Via Ghiberti. Note the grocery store and bakery for provisions.In 500m the road veers right and you cross the Sieve on a stout bridge. After the crossing continue along the road, passing the lovely Chiesa San Francesco on the right. One block later turn left on Via Bettini. At Via Farulla turn right and in one block come to the Via Forlivese, the main road up and down the Sieve Valley.
The view from the Ponte Mediceo bridge over the Sieve River in Pontassieve
Just across the street is the barely visible Via Tirolo. Take it uphill, first crossing a railroad bridge. You will climb uphill on this pleasant, asphalt lane for the next 2.9km, with beautiful views of the Sieve Valley and the 10th-century Castello di Nipozzano, now a prosperous winery of the historic Frescobaldi company. The asphalt road ends among olive orchards near the top of the hill at an intersection marked ‘Via di Castello Nipozzano.’
Cross