attitude to comfort it is a cheap way for a group of people to live close to the walking routes. The houses are often run by walking clubs or trade unions, but many are available to non-members and are popular with families and students. Facilities are often primitive; there is no running water or indoor toilet, although there are cooking hobs running on gas cylinders. When unoccupied the cottage is locked and the address and telephone number of the keyholder is on a noticeboard near the door, which is not very useful as by this time you are already a long way from the town where the warden lives. Unfortunately most of the keyholders do not speak English; booking has to be done weeks in advance in writing, and the houses are usually booked up months ahead for the summer and Christmas holidays. It is, however, an option worth considering if you know any Hungarians who can do the booking for you.
Walkers’ Hostels
Budget accommodation for walkers is limited in Hungary but it is still possible to stay in a turistaház or turistaszálló. They are marked on walking maps as a black rectangle with a little flag, and the word turistaház is usually translated as youth hostel. These establishments, many of which are former hunting lodges, are not members of the International Youth Hostel Association but are run by walking clubs, trade unions or state-controlled industries. Check at the local tourist office if you are expecting to stay at one of these establishments as some hostels marked on Hungarian walking maps are now out of use or are limited to pre-booked group hire. On the other hand, not all hostels are marked on the maps. The best ones are up in the hills away from the main roads, but most can be approached by car.
Hostel facilities are basic but clean and have hot showers, toilets and a canteen, although some establishments are beginning to look run down. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are available at extra cost, after which the price can compare with a private room in a village. Guests can eat their own food in the canteen or have communal cooking facilities. There is no curfew and drinking in the bar will go on into the night until someone complains or the warden (who also runs the bar) wants to get to bed. If you want to make a very early start the next day let the warden know as he probably locks the doors at night. Wardens do not speak English but many hostels have a friendly atmosphere, although do not expect to be surrounded by serious walkers and climbers nowadays.
Üdülő
An üdülő is another type of hostel. At best it is an old lodge set in pleasant surroundings, but many are rather utilitarian structures thrown up quickly during the 1950s. The üdülő dates back to the Communist period, when each state company ran its own recreation centres for the exclusive use of its workers. A few of these establishments are now open to outsiders. Accommodation is dormitory style, although there are more expensive family rooms. While these establishments are showing signs of decline, the bedding provided is clean.
Meals are of variable standard and add considerably to the cost. For some reason an üdülő is often more expensive than a turistaház. In summer large parties of children take over this type of hostel. If that is the case it is wise to avoid them, because even if you manage to get into a private room the largely unsupervised children will keep you up all night. It is all a matter of luck and season. A room in the village will probably be cheaper and more pleasant.
Establishments calling themselves a turistaház, turistaszálló or üdülő as well as hostels run by the state railway company and a few affiliated campsites are listed in the rarely updated Természetbarát Szálláshelyek published by Hungary’s main walking club, the MTSZ, or the Union of the Hungarian Friends of Nature. The book is available from the Cartographia map shop (see Appendix 4). For other budget accommodation the free Tourinform booklet Ifjúsági Szálláskatalógus is rather limited, as it only lists hostels affiliated to the International Youth Hostel Association, few of which are near walking routes.
Private Rooms and Apartments
When passing through a village, look for the following signs: szoba kiadó, zimmer frei and apartmen frei. Many private households offer a clean room or apartment with clean bedding for a reasonable price, although meals are not usually available.
Alternatively rent a room or apartment in a family house registered with the Falusi és Agroturizmus Országos Szövetsége (Hungarian Federation of Rural Tourism). Look for their logo (intertwined red and green hearts) on garden gates. Their free catalogue in Hungarian, English and German is available at their Budapest headquarters in Király utca (see Appendix 4). Booking accommodation is not strictly part of their service but they will, if pressed, telephone a householder for tourists who cannot speak Hungarian. Many of the properties in the scheme are also listed on the Centre of Rural Tourism website (see Appendix 4) which has an English-language option. Their packages also include hands-on farming experience, green tourism and activities geared to children. Depending on the setup you will either share bathroom facilities with the family or hire a separate apartment with en suite bathroom and kitchen. Price per night is reasonable, but expect it to rise during public holidays, especially Christmas and Easter. Meals are often available for an additional charge. You are not obliged to eat your host’s food but do let them know in advance if you require feeding. If you cannot speak Hungarian there will be some silences at dinner, although it is rarely awkward as the householders in the scheme are usually friendly. Some families will ply you with wine all night and insist on speaking to you in pidgin German.
Villagers, Regéc, Zemplén,Walk 18
Vendégház; Panzió; Szálló/Hotel/Fogadó
These are lumped together because prices and facilities often overlap. The standard of guesthouses and hotels in rural areas is usually excellent and, although more expensive than budget accommodation, are good value for money. Prices quoted are for the room, and solo travellers will have to pay the full price for occupying a double room. A vendégház, or guesthouse, can be as expensive as a hotel or as cheap as a turistaház. It is a rare practice and not officially condoned, but beware of establishments with dual-pricing systems penalising foreigners. Guesthouses often have access to a kitchen and dining room for self-catering, although home-cooked meals are also available at extra cost.
A panzió is a small- to medium-sized hotel offering bed and breakfast and may also have a restaurant and bar for non-residents. A hotel or szálloda is the most expensive option. A selection of panziós and hotels are marked on Hungarian walking maps. A fogadó is Hungarian for inn and is not an indication of price. The local tourist office will provide a list or brochure of accommodation for their area, although a small number of guesthouses and hotels is listed in the MTSZ publication Természetbarát Szálláshelyek mentioned above.
Getting Around Hungary
Driving
Hungary is not a large country and many walking routes are about an hour’s drive from Budapest. Driving is a comfortable way to get to the walk-in points and there are circular walks in the guide ideal for car users. With few exceptions there is always somewhere to park free in a village. Car hire is available at the airport but one of the many travel companies in Budapest can arrange it for you. Road surfaces on motorways and major roads are generally of a high standard but deteriorate as you enter Budapest. Many village streets and back roads are unsurfaced.
The downside of driving on Hungary’s smart new motorways is the toll (autópályadíj) which is payable on the Ml and the M3. Purchase a sticker (matrica) at a toll office at the entrance to the motorway or the nearest petrol station. Look for the sign: Autópálya matrica kapható. Ask Van egy árlista angolul? for the English-language leaflet explaining the system and latest charges. Stickers are also sold at many post offices or offices of the Magyar Autóklub (Hungarian Automobile Association). When buying a sticker you will be asked to fill in a registration form. Display the sticker prominently on the windscreen as it will be scanned by special cameras along the highway. There is a heavy fine for not paying. If travelling frequently it is worth buying a nine-day (heti) or monthly (havi) ticket.
Points worth mentioning about driving around Hungary: thirdparty insurance is compulsory; driver and passenger(s) including passengers in the back seats must wear seat belts; children under the age of 12 may not travel in the front and must use a child