are compulsory during daylight hours. The speed limit is 50km/h (30mph) in built-up areas; 90km/h (55mph) on other roads; and 130km/h (80mph) on the motorway/highway. The police regularly set speed traps and also carry out spot-checks so always have all your documents, including passport and motorway toll registration form, with you while driving. A hazard to look out for on some main roads and rural areas is poorly visible horse-drawn carts.
Parking space is becoming increasingly limited in Budapest and traffic wardens patrol the streets to catch people whose parking meter ticket has expired. In the worst cases the local authority tows away offending cars. If you are involved in a car accident while in Hungary report it to the police, as damaged vehicles attempting to leave the country without a certificate will be detained. Drinking even the smallest amount of alcohol while driving is an offence.
Public Transport
All the walking research in this guide has tested the feasibility of using public transport to get on and off the walking routes. During the 1950s many waymarked routes were set up to start and finish at a train station or bus stop, reflecting the emphasis on cheap holidays as well as the lower levels of car ownership. Nowadays it is still possible to come out of the forest to a lonely stretch of road and find a bus stop with frequent services, but do not depend on it. Using public transport is also a good way of getting to know a country and it is a safe way to travel in Hungary. The guide attempts to ensure that a route does not leave a walker stranded and that there is ample opportunity to catch a bus or train back to a town or, failing that, there is likely to be accommodation nearby. Whether travelling by bus or train, avoid Friday afternoons. The introduction to each region in the guide provides details about local public transport, but the following is a general introduction to bus and train travel in Hungary.
Rail
The Hungarian State Railway (MÁV) has a large network radiating out from Budapest to many walk-in points. Get to the ticket halls of Budapest’s mainline stations well in advance of departure to avoid long queues. A more relaxed method is to buy tickets in advance at MÁV’s air-conditioned central booking office (see Appendix 4). Ask for an English-speaking member of staff. Ticket-sellers and inspectors are unlikely to speak fluent English but are usually patient when dealing with phrasebook Hungarian. There are no complicated saver tickets and cheap returns; price is calculated by the kilometre. For student concessions travellers must hold a European rail pass bought in their country of origin.
Ordinary trains are quite efficient but expect to stand in the corridor on many journeys. First class is an alternative, but sometimes the standard is very poor and not worth the extra cost. Services are classed according to their speed and how often they stop: gyors (fast – stops at main stations only); sebes (stops at smaller towns); and személy (stops at every halt). Air-conditioned Inter City trains (‘IC’ on timetables) are fast and comfortable but you must reserve the seat and pay a booking fee. Specify if you do not want to sit in the smoking coach: nem dohányzó. To find your seat on an Inter City train examine the ticket for the coach (kocsi) and seat (hely) numbers. With a few exceptions, such as lines with unmanned stations, you will be fined for boarding a train without a ticket. Small red trains (kispiros) operating from provincial railway stations get closer to some walking routes. Some hills can be accessed using the little forest trains running from Easter to mid-October.
Cave house museum, Szomolya, Bükk, Walk 11
Summary of railway stations in Budapest and the walking areas they serve:
Budapest Keleti Pályaudvar (Eastern Railway Station): Aggtelek, Bükk, Mátra, Zemplén
Budapest Nyugati Pályaudvar (Western Railway Station): Börzsöny, Pilis
Budapest Déli Pályaudvar (Southern Railway Station): Bakony, Balaton, Mecsek, Vértes.
Bus
Most long-distance buses are comfortable, efficient and air-conditioned, and a pleasant way to get to the hills, but many villages can only be reached by changing for a local bus at smaller towns and provincial capitals. Villages that are popular tourist destinations can be reached by direct bus, but there are likely to be only a couple of services a day.
Rural timetables are often geared to commuting workers, therefore morning buses depart at an unearthly hour. To avoid becoming stranded plan your journey carefully. Pre-booking for long-distance services is possible at city bus stations and will allow you to get on the bus before everybody else and secure a seat; but make sure you are there well before departure. For rural buses, have plenty of small change ready. Country bus drivers do not speak English, but the digital display will show the price of the ticket; or, on the older buses, have a look at the ticket itself. It is rare but inspectors can flag down the bus in the middle of nowhere so do not overstay your journey.
Summary of bus stations in Budapest and the walking areas they serve:
Budapest Népstadion: Aggtelek, Bükk, Mátra, Zemplén
Budapest Árpád híd: Börzsöny, Pilis
Budapest Népliget: Bakony, Balaton, Mecsek, Vértes.
Timetables
National railway and bus timetables (menetrend) are available at rail and bus stations, and regional versions can be bought at provincial offices. Tourinform offices have a set of timetables and staff will be glad to help with travel plans. For both train and bus services the summer timetable begins in early June and the winter timetable takes over from September. All times are in the 24-hour clock. If planning your trip from outside Hungary check the railway and bus company websites (see Appendix 4). The MÁV website has up-to-date timetables and prices in English, but the VOLÁN equivalent is in Hungarian, although it does provide an on-line Hungarian–English dictionary.
Every main railway station has a map of the national network and a timetable for every line, but a few rural railway halts do not have a booking office or timetable, so take a note of the return services before setting off. The national bus network is decentralised and its timetables show only the regional destinations and arrivals.
Hungary’s timetables are afflicted by a plague of footnotes. Understanding this cluster of symbols and letters could be crucial if you are not to discover that the last bus you thought you could catch does not run on weekdays. Appendix 2 has a few examples. As a general guide no symbols next to a departure time means the service is daily and a crossed hammer symbol or the letter M means that the service runs only on working days.
Health
General
At the time of writing emergency and out-patient treatment are available free to citizens of the European Union, but follow-up care must be paid for or pursued back home. It is worth checking the latest position with the Hungarian embassy before departure. There is no reciprocal health agreement for citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand. Whatever your status travel insurance is recommended. Doctors usually speak English, although receptionists and nurses do not. Take a simple first aid kit comprising plasters, bandage, safety pin and anti-histamine for insect bites although all these items are available in Hungarian drug stores. In Hungary only pharmacies (gyógyszertár or patika) are authorised to supply medicines taken internally, and antibiotics require a doctor’s prescription. Pharmacies will accept foreign prescriptions if you require resupply during the holiday. Medicines for personal use up to a certain value can be brought into Hungary. Check with the embassy for the latest regulations.
Ticks
Walking in Hungary is relatively safe, but as with most of Central Europe its forests and meadows are a haven for ticks (kullancs), which attach themselves to the undergrowth waiting for a host to pass by. The bite is painless, but an attached tick must be removed promptly and with care so as not to increase the risk of infection. Ticks are active in Hungary from April until the first frost, which can be as late as November, but the main season is May and June. The risk of contracting disease is low for the walker who follows well-beaten trails, uses a DEET insect repellent, and does not wild camp, but if spending a long time in the hills it may be worthwhile getting