avoid the ascent, it is necessary to walk back down to the hotel). The road is the North Walk – a Victorian perambulation that narrows on a wooded slope before running out onto steep and rocky slopes as an easy tarmac path. Look out for feral goats with long, curved horns. When the path forks, keep right and there are later fine views of Castle Rock towering above the sea. The path heads for a road, crossing a turning circle in the popular Valley of Rocks.
Castle Rock towers above the sea as the route enters the Valley of Rocks
There is a signpost for the beach, but the Coast Path runs along the road. Up to the left is Mother Meldrum’s Cave, then turn right where a path leaves the road. There is a view of the ‘White Lady’ – a shape formed by an irregular hold near the top of Castle Rock. The path climbs back to the road, which is a toll road through the Lee Abbey Estate. Lee Abbey lies to the right and is a Christian conference and outdoor centre. (There are toilets at the bottom of the road, as well as the Lee Abbey Tea Cottage.)
Follow the road up around a bend and watch for a Coast Path sign on the right, where a path leads down around Crock Point, then climbs back onto the road, which is signposted as an easier alternative route. Turn right to follow the road onwards, keeping right at a fork. A sharp left turn leads downhill, then turn right through a gate, following a broad path down into the woods next to Woody Bay. The area round Woody Bay is protected as an SSSI and is noted for its ‘hanging’ oakwoods, threatened by invasive rhododendron and home to red deer.
A clear woodland track runs down to a narrow road at West Cottage. Turn left as signposted for the Coast Path – or for ‘America’ on another signpost! Follow the road up to a bend, then climb right up a stony woodland path. The trees later bend over the path as it runs downhill. Cross over Hollow Brook at a little waterfall and rise from the valley to cross a more open slope above the cliffs, looking out for razorbills and guillemots on the rocks. Follow a stony path across a steep slope of heather, rising past a couple of fine rocky viewpoints.
One rocky outcrop overlooks Heddon’s Mouth. The path slices down across a steep, scrubby, stony slope into woods below. Turn left inland and upstream alongside a river, signposted as the Coast Path. The track eventually leads to the Hunter’s Inn for food and drink. Turn right across a stone footbridge, walk downstream a little, then turn sharp left along a clear track, upstream and inland, through a gate.
Watch for a sharp right turn uphill, signposted as the Coast Path, leading up a wooded slope and through a gate. Zigzag up a steep slope of bracken, then head to the right along a path that contours back towards the coast high above Heddon’s Mouth. The path swings left and later climbs a steep slope of heather and rock.
When a fence is reached on a stone-and-earth bank, turn right as signposted for the Coast Path. Cliffs fall steeply to the sea and there are fine views ahead, but the path is generally easy, using a grassy strip at the top of East Cleave. There are fields grazed by sheep inland, then the path steps back from the cliff to avoid a landslip.
The path continues along the top of North Cleave and later runs down towards a patch of woodland, but avoids it by crossing a stile and heading inland across a field. The path climbs onto a more rugged moorland slope, running up through gorse and heather to reach a broad track. In the 19th century there was a plan to build a settlement in this exposed place.
Turn right to follow the track across the slopes of Holdstone Down, later descending a little with the broad dome of Great Hangman in view beyond. The track climbs and heads inland, then is signposted down to a stream and footbridge in the valley of Sherrycombe.
Follow a path steeply up the other side of the valley, clipping a patch of woodland, then continue up a slope of gorse and round a corner of a field. When a path junction is reached, walk straight onwards and uphill at a gentler gradient, following a clear path to a sprawling cairn on the top of Great Hangman, which stands at 318m (1043ft) and is the highest point on the South West Coast Path. Enjoy views back across Exmoor, as the route soon leaves the National Park. The coast of South Wales and Lundy Island are also in view.
Keep left of the cairn to follow a clear path downhill. This runs towards the smaller bump of Little Hangman. (A climb to the summit is an optional extra, but the path roller-coasts along a cliff often covered in bushes, featuring only occasional views.) Finally, the path is swallowed into the trees and swings left downhill. Turn right at the bottom and walk beside a car park to enter Combe Martin by way of a pub called Royal Marine.
COMBE MARTIN
Combe Martin stretches far inland from a little bay at the extreme western end of the Exmoor National Park. There were once schemes to develop a harbour, and even link the village with a former railway at Ilfracombe, but those plans were abandoned, along with its lead-mining industry. Some walkers might prefer to continue beyond Combe Martin to reach Ilfracombe, with its greater range of services, but the way is fiddly and could take longer than expected.
Facilities include accommodation, a nearby campsite, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and cafés. Transport links include buses to Lynmouth, Porlock and Minehead, as well as to Ilfracombe via the Exmoor Coastlink. Tourist information centre: Museum, Cross Street, Combe Martin, Devon EX34 0DH, tel 01271 889031.
STAGE 4
Combe Martin to Woolacombe
| Start | Royal Marine, Combe Martin (SS 576 472) |
| Finish | Crossroads, Woolacombe (SS 457 438) |
| Distance | 22.5km (14 miles) |
| Ascent | 1020m (3345ft) |
| Time | 6hrs |
| Terrain | Convoluted paths require careful route-finding between Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. An easy cliff path leaves Ilfracombe, followed by a roller-coaster cliff path to Lee Bay and Morte Point. The final walk from Morte Point to Woolacombe is fairly easy. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 180, OS Explorers OL9 & 139, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Ilfracombe has plenty of shops, pubs and restaurants offering food and drink. A pub just inland offers food and drink at Lee Bay. Detours inland can be made to the village of Mortehoe, which has pubs and cafés. Plenty of choice at Woolacombe. |
After the hilly days through the Exmoor National Park, the walk becomes a little gentler. There are plenty of ascents and descents, but they tend to be smaller-scale. The route from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe is rather fiddly in places as the path works its way round little headlands and coves, while trying to avoid the roads. Ilfracombe is full of distractions, then the Torrs Walk leads walkers away from town. Scenic, interesting rocky cliffs stretch between Lee Bay and Woolacombe.
Follow the main road up Seaside Hill to leave Combe Martin, turning right along a tarmac path. Almost reach a beach, but climb winding concrete steps to a road. Turn right, down and up a lane to leave the village. Turn right along the main road, follow a path running parallel, then climb a wooden stairway.
Turn left along Newberry Road to return to the main road, turning right again. Use the pavement until another path can be followed parallel. Turn right as signposted through a gap near Berrynarbor, walking down a road and turning left along the Old Coast Road. Pass behind a hotel and the road later gives way to a woodland track with big beech