little museums or heritage centres, with fishing and smuggling being oft-repeated themes. Visit them to obtain a clearer picture of local history.
A protected coastline
The South West coast is largely cherished and protected, but has been spoiled in a few places by industry and inappropriate development. The Exmoor National Park covers the early stages, and much of the coast of North Devon, Cornwall, South Devon, East Devon and Dorset is designated as Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The last long stretch of coast was designated as England’s first Natural World Heritage Site: the ‘Jurassic Coast’. Many stretches are Heritage Coasts, while smaller areas may be protected as National Nature Reserves, Local Nature Reserves or Sites of Special Scientific Interest. The National Trust own and manage around 500km (310 miles) of the coast, some of it acquired during their long-running ‘Operation Neptune’ campaign.
Looking after the Coast Path
The South West Coast Path is looked after by a partnership of organisations. Maintenance is undertaken by the County Councils and the National Trust and coordinated by the South West Coast Path National Trail Team, with support from the South West Coast Path Association (a charity) and funding from Natural England. They work together to ensure that any storm damage, broken signposts, stiles, footbridges and much more, are all repaired and cared for.
Following reductions in government funding in recent years, the Association has taken on a vital fundraising role to help support these important projects, and also works hard to encourage everyone to use, enjoy and ultimately love the Coast Path.
The South West Coast Path Association was originally founded in 1973 to act as the voice of the trail, generating support and awareness of the route and lobbying for the path to be the complete 1014km (630-mile) trail it is today. As it costs at least £1000 for every mile of this glorious trail to be kept open and clearly signed, the Association asks for your support to help look after and love the path. Whether you use it to walk the dog, have family picnics, to escape on holiday for some fresh sea air or enjoy it as a serious walker: if you love it, please help to protect it.
The easiest way to do this is to become a member of the Association, with annual membership being available for less than the price of a pasty or a pint per month. The Association also has a wide range of South West Coast Path gifts and essential walking items. By supporting them you are supporting the path. Please visit www.southwestcoastpath.org.uk, tel 01752 896237, [email protected], for further information.
Walkers who spot part of the route that needs repairing are encouraged to report it, either via the website (look for ‘report a problem’) or by emailing the details to [email protected]. To help the rangers locate it, please ensure that you note the location (ideally a grid reference) and it is also really helpful if you can include a photo.
The severe winters of 2012, 2013 and 2014 hit the coast of the South West hard and resulted not only in the main railway line into Devon and Cornwall being temporarily severed, but it also caused many cliff falls, requiring a huge amount of work to reinstate the Coast Path. Thanks to funding secured by the Association from donations and the Coastal Communities Fund, the majority of this damage has now been repaired. The website carries the latest information on any remaining diversions, so it’s well worth checking in case things have changed since this edition was published.
THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
Minehead to South Haven Point
Walkers on one of the most rugged parts of the route, between St Ives and Zennor (Stage 18)
STAGE 1
Minehead to Porlock Weir
| Start | South West Coast Path Monument, Minehead (SS 971 468) |
| Finish | Ship Inn, Porlock Weir (SS 863 479) |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Ascent | 620m (2035ft) |
| Time | 5hrs |
| Terrain | A steep and wooded ascent, followed by gentle open moorlands and a steep descent. There is a ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ also available. Level and easy field paths are used later. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 181, OS Explorer OL9, Cicerone Vol 1, Harvey 1 |
| Refreshments | Plenty of choice in Minehead. Tea garden at Bossington. Pubs, restaurants and cafés off-route at Porlock, and at Porlock Weir. |
After months of planning, you arrive in Minehead to start what may be the longest walk you have ever attempted. Take it one step at a time, setting your sights no further than Porlock in the first instance. Oddly enough, the South West Coast Path climbs high above the coast, drifts well inland on Exmoor and loses sight of the sea. It is a moorland walk rather than a coastal walk, but is pleasant and not too demanding.
A ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ offers a tougher, more scenic beginning.
MINEHEAD
In the 18th century Minehead had a thriving harbour with ships sailing as far away as America. Inland from Quay Town are Lower Town and Higher Town. As shipping dwindled to little more than a small fishing fleet, 19th-century Minehead became a holiday resort and remains so today. Although its seaside pier has gone, its old harbour wall survives. There are no longer direct rail services, but the old branch line has been preserved as the West Somerset Railway (tel 01643 704996, www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk). The modern town is centred on Wellington Square and St Andrew’s Church. The old church of St Michael’s, high above town, dates from the 14th century. Try and spend a night in town before starting the Coast Path.
Facilities include abundant accommodation of all types, including a nearby youth hostel and campsite, banks with ATMs, post office, shops, toilets, pubs and restaurants. Transport links include regular buses to and from the railway station at Taunton. Buses also link Minehead with Porlock and Porlock Weir. Exmoor Coastlink buses do the same, but continue to Lynmouth, Combe Martin and Ilfracombe. For information contact Minehead Information Centre, Beach Hotel, The Avenue, Minehead, Somerset TA24 5AP, tel 01643 702624, www.mineheadtowncouncil.co.uk, [email protected].
An imaginative monument marks the beginning of the South West Coast Path at Minehead, located on the Esplanade, on the way to the harbour. It takes the form of gigantic hands holding a map, based on a design by local art student Sarah Ward, executed in bronze by Owen Cunningham. Pause for a moment of reflection. All who start this trail must feel they are stepping out on a formidable journey – perhaps with lingering doubts, but certainly with anticipation and a sense of adventure.
Walk along the promenade from the monument, to pass the little harbour, pub and lifeboat station. Continue past a road-end turning area to follow a clear coastal path across a grassy area at the foot of a well-wooded slope, above a pebble beach. The path later climbs through the woods and drifts inland, joining and following an access road towards Greenaleigh Farm. Turn left up steps before the farm, following a path that makes a sweeping zigzag