THE CARNEDDAU
Pen y Helgi Du (Walk 4)
WALK 1
Tal y Fan
| Start/Finish | Sychnant Pass SH 750 769 |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Total ascent | 510m (1540ft) |
| Grade | Moderate |
| Time | 4–5hr |
| Terrain | Moorland tracks |
| Map | OS OL17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa |
| Access | Via the steep Sychnant Pass road from Conwy to Penmaenmawr |
| Parking | Roadside at the top of the pass |
This is very definitely a walk of two halves. For the first section the Irish Sea and Menai Straits are constant companions, dominating the views as you look down onto the towns of the north coast of Wales. Then as you crest the final ridge of Tal y Fan everything changes as the mountains reassert themselves. Once the path switches to the inland side of the ridge it becomes a hill walk again, as befits Snowdonia’s most northerly 2000fter, a distinction it makes by a whisker.
A rider heads towards Tal y Fan
From the top of the pass cross to the western side and go through a gate marked ‘Pensychnant Nature Reserve and Farm’. Follow the stony track for a couple of hundred metres and then turn back hard rightwards on a rising path, part of the North Wales Path. After another 50 metres by a waymarker turn left uphill, passing under a set of power lines to climb to another marker post where the path turns right under more power lines before climbing towards the ridge.
Where the track passes under the power lines yet again turn right uphill on a wide track, broadly following the electricity lines across heathery moorland. The views stretch to the surrounding headlands and sea and a marine forest of dozens of offshore wind turbines. At the top of the slope carry on ahead, still following the track parallel to the power lines to reach a stile with whitewashed farm buildings below.
The path continues traversing above the farm buildings and then carries on in the same direction briefly following a wall, still guided by the power lines and the occasional waymarker for the North Wales Path.
The path, now much fainter, comes to a group of ruined enclosures containing clumps of trees then continues above them and in a couple of hundred metres comes to a fork. Turn uphill to soon reach a much broader vehicle track coming in from the left. Turn right along this, aiming for the long rocky ridge of Tal y Fan.
Today Tal y Fan supports the odd farmhouse but even more ruins. It was not always so sparsely populated and the map is dotted with old settlements, standing stones and circles. Some require the eye of faith to make them out but others are more obvious even to the untrained eye. Antiquarians can amuse themselves for hours rummaging among the heather for traces of our ancestors and the mark they left on the mountain.
The track passes high above the reed-fringed pool of an old reservoir before it begins to climb slowly leftwards up towards the end of the ridge. At the watershed it meets another vehicle track. Follow this rightwards as it curls round into an area of quarry spoil heaps with fine views of the Conwy Estuary. Once past these a grassy path begins to climb the ridge, weaving its way through rocks and outcrops, guided by a wall, with ever-improving views of the inland hills to arrive at the sturdy stone trig point.
Tal y Fan summit
From the summit carry on following the wall to a col and take a stile on the left and go down to another stile in the right hand wall. The whole atmosphere of the walk now changes as the sea views disappear and the Conwy Valley opens up ahead.
The path drops over three stiles to reach a tarmac lane, which is followed leftwards for 50 metres to where an unmade track branches off left. After a couple of hundred metres along this a footpath sign at Cae Coch directs you back up the slope. The path follows a gently rising traverse line rightwards across the hillside following the line of a wall. This is a delightful stroll with the ridge above and the woods and fields of the valley of the River Conwy below. Where the wall become dilapidated carry on along the same line as the ridge drops down towards the track.
Eventually after about three quarters of an hour of steady walking the path curls round the hill to slip through a prominent pass and begins to drop down. Where it forks do not follow the main track into the valley but instead follow a wall on the left and look for a gap in the corner ahead about 200m below the col. The track passes through this and then follows the left hand side of the wall along the edge of the moor.
Carry on circling the hill with the intake wall always on your right. The aim is to stay above the intake wall always following the moorland edge.
When the track reaches another pass in the ridge, turn left through this to quickly arrive at the tiny tarn of Llyn y Wrach. Pass this on its right-hand side and follow the path down a shallow valley to reach the power lines followed on the outward leg. Turn right and follow them back to the car.
WALK 2
Aber Falls and the Northern Carneddau
| Start/Finish | Bont Newydd, Abergwyngregyn SH 662 720 |
| Distance | 20km (12½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 1020m (3350ft) |
| Grade | Strenuous |
| Time | 7hr |
| Terrain | Mainly good paths with a couple of trackless and boggy sections |
| Map | OS OL17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa |
| Access | Abergwyngregyn is reached by the A55 from Bangor to Conwy: follow signs from the village to Aber Falls |
| Parking | Pay and display parking at Bont Newydd |
| Note | The Northern Carneddau are even less trodden than the southern summits in the group. This walk covers consistently high ground, much of it on largely featureless slopes which demand good navigation in mist. |
Aber Falls are deservedly popular with visitors to the North Wales coast. The combination of easy access and a spectacular waterfall where the Afon Goch plunges 37m (120ft) down the rock face proves an irresistible combination, but the broad smooth path to the falls should not fool walkers into thinking this is going to be a stroll. Once the falls are left behind the atmosphere changes dramatically and it becomes a taxing expedition.
From the bridge turn right opposite a little cottage into an overspill car park and picnic area, following signs to the falls. The path winds up through a pleasant wooded valley on a wide, firm track. There is a slightly rougher diversion through the woods, but with so much walking ahead it seems a little early to go looking for trouble.
The sleek white ribbon of Aber Falls
Either path eventually brings you the Aber Falls, a sleek white ribbon running down the face. It feels a little early for a stop but this is a sight to be savoured. When you have admired the falls enough take a footbridge across the stream and carry on up the path beyond as it contours round to reach Rhaeadr bach (‘the small falls’). It’s a shame to encounter these falls second, as without the presence of their larger companion just round the corner they would feel rather more impressive.
About 100 metres or so further down the path by a small tree on the left hand side take a narrow path through the bracken up to the fence line, which is followed rightwards to a small stile giving onto the open hillside. Follow the track diagonally rightwards to cross the stream and continue up the slope. There is no point pretending this next section is anything but toil as the path plays hide