to the right and Flynnon Llugwy Reservoir to the left, while ahead the ridge plunges steeply to a saddle which proves much easier than it looks from above.
Beyond the col the path carries on up the narrow crest and provides a brief easy scramble through a band of slabs before traversing above Craig yr Ysfa onto a broader slope. It arrives on the very summit of Carnedd Llewelyn, although this is not immediately clear as the top is a huge stony plateau.
Near the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn
Turn right, heading northwards along the main Carneddau ridge, dropping down a stony slope to a col and then a rather smoother climb over grass to the 976m (3201ft) summit rocks of Foel Grach.
Leftwards across Cwm Caseg, the view from Foel Grach is dominated by Yr Elen’s huge shattered face. Just behind and below the summit of Foel Grach is a rudimentary bothy intended to be an emergency refuge for those caught out by darkness or bad weather on these otherwise shelterless tops.
In good visibility the descent from here is clear, despite the lack of obvious paths. In mist or darkness it is a very tricky exercise in navigation and best avoided. The general aim is to reach the ridge on the north western side of Cwm Eigiau. A clear track can be seen traversing the side of the ridge but this is used only in its very lowest section.
Head off south eastwards across mostly trackless grass, where any footprints you come across are likely to be left by the horseshoes of the semi-wild ponies that graze here rather than the cleated rubber of walkers. Work your way across the slope, aiming for the ridge, and eventually the reservoir of Melynllyn comes into view below. Shortly afterwards the contouring path intersects a broad track running along the ridge. Carry on down this and where it passes to the left of a cockscomb of rocky outcrops the valley’s second lake, Dulyn Reservoir appears in a dark, crag-girt hollow. The path, now much narrower, begins to descend more steeply across the slope, eventually dropping to join the access track by a gate. Go through this and follow the broad track as it curls round the end of the ridge to descend to the car park.
WALK 4
The Southern Carneddau
| Start/Finish | Llyn Ogwen on A5 between Capel Curig and Bethesda SH 648 604 |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Total ascent | 1170m (3840ft) |
| Grade | Strenuous |
| Time | 6hr |
| Terrain | Steep climb followed by stony ridges; simple scrambling |
| Map | OS OL17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa |
| Access | Llyn Ogwen is on A5 between Capel Curig and Bethesda |
| Parking | Pay and display car park by Llyn Ogwen or free spaces by the road |
The Carneddau have a reputation in some circles of being a bit tame and even perhaps a little boring. Looking from the shores of Llyn Ogwen it’s an easy mistake to make, especially when you contrast their green slopes with the rocky turrets of Tryfan or the deep clefts and cwms of the Glyderau on the other side of the valley. But don’t be fooled. Hidden within their folds the Carneddau harbour dramatic cwms and huge cliffs. Their rounded tops have often been compared with Scotland’s Cairngorms, and when winter gales scour the ridges they can feel every bit as wild. These are not mountains to be underestimated and several of the summits top the magic 3000ft contour. This walk visits three of them, Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewelyn, in a glorious high round.
It is possible to make a direct assault on Pen yr Ole Wen by a path which hurls itself directly at the ridge rising from the western end of Llyn Ogwen, but this is a brutally steep choice best left to masochists and would-be SAS candidates. This easier and more devious route climbs easily into lovely Cwm Lloer and throws in an easy scramble to ease the height gain.
Walk east along the A5 towards Capel Curig and turn left at the first lane beyond the lake towards Tal y Llyn Farm, passing the MAM climbing hut at Glan Dena. Just before reaching the farm gate take a pitched path heading up the hillside. This climbs beside the Afon Lloer, paved in places but quite wet in others, until it reaches the rim of Cwm Lloer. From here it turns leftwards up the fine enclosing ridge, which provides a simple scramble with impressive views back across the valley to the stern North Ridge of Tryfan and the rocky faces of the Glyderau.
The top of the scramble proves not to be the top of the hill, and the path continues around the rim of the cwm to the bare summit of Pen yr Ole Wen. Once this has been reached the hardest work has been done, and what remains is top quality ridge walking where it is possible to stride out and gobble up the miles.
Ridge to Pen yr Ole Wen
The track now curves away around the cwm, staying well away from the edge and crossing the minor top of Carnedd Fach, traversing a wilderness of stones relieved only by patches of Alpine grasses and mosses. The top of Carnedd Dafydd, perhaps not surprisingly, given the wealth of building material available on all sides, is crowned with a sprawling cairn and commodious windbreaks. From here the broad track carries on around the ridge towards Carnedd Llewelyn.
As you circle the cwm the Carneddau begin to reveal their true character, with deeply scalloped hollows cradling secret lakes and a surprising amount of naked rock worthy of any mountain lover’s attention.
The path stretches away along the largely featureless ridge before taking a distinct dogleg to the north to begin the climb of the final slopes of Carnedd Llewelyn, a great shivering pile of stones. The path arrives on the edge of the summit plateau by a windbreak. This is a crucial landmark for the descent.
Glancing round the summit reveals it to be decorated with a large number of rocky protuberances, any one of which might be the actual summit. With no trig point to settle the argument there is little for it but to check for yourself and at the end of your investigations you may well come to the conclusion that it is by the windbreak after all.
Descent from Carnedd Llewelyn to Pen yr Helgi Du
From here take what would have been a right turn on your arrival, heading south east towards the summit of Pen yr Helgi Du. The start is marked with a large cairn a few metres down the hill. The path drops steeply down and as it nears the col it passes above the climbing crag of Craig yr Ysfa down to the left. This is followed by a short section where it is necessary to clamber down rocks to reach the col, with the reservoir of Ffynnon Llugwy below to the right.
The ridge to Pen yr Helgi Du provides an enjoyable finale to the walk From the bald sheep-cropped summit there is a satisfying panorama of virtually the entire day’s route.
Shortcut missing out Pen yr Helgi Du
For those without the energy to spare for a final summit, the quickest and most direct descent takes a path from the far end of the col which drops steeply down to the reservoir, passing it on its left hand side to reach the access road which is followed to the A5.
From the summit of Pen yr Helgi Du turn right (south) down the broad grassy ridge which provides welcome relief for the knees and feet on springy turf after all the miles of stones. As it nears the A5 the path jinks to the right of some buildings and drops down to the access track. Follow this down to the main road.
The tiny building opposite is Helyg, a mountaineering hut owned by the Climbers’ Club, and a spot which has played a pivotal role in mountaineering both in Snowdonia and elsewhere. It was a temporary home to many of the early rock climbing pioneers when the sport was being developed in Wales and was also used as a training base by members of the 1953 Everest expedition before they left for Nepal to make the first ascent of the world’s highest mountain.
Cross the road to a ladder stile and take the path heading across the valley floor. At a stile and a T-junction