Stephen Fox

Cycle Touring in France


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      CYCLE TOURING IN FRANCE

      by

      Stephen Fox

      2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY

      www.cicerone.co.uk

      About the Author

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      A couple of muddy mountain-biking weekends in Wales (with the evenings spent reading Robin Neilland's Walking through France whilst wet gear dried in front of a crackling fire) – followed by daily doses of Channel 4's coverage of the Tour de France in July 1989 – inspired Stephen Fox to attempt his first bicycle tour a month later, a 600-mile coast-to-coast charity ride across France from Caen to Montpellier.

      Smitten ever since, he has cycled extensively in France and also central Italy, where he lived for several years. In 2001 he completed a challenging and exhilarating cycle tour of Norway's spectacular Lofoten Islands, situated 150 miles north of the Arctic Circle.

      He now lives in southern England with his wife and daughter, and works in the photographic industry, as well as being a freelance writer and photographer.

      ISBN-13 978 1 85284 432 5

      ISBN-10 1 85284 432 9

      © Stephen Fox 2006

      Reprinted with updates 2007, 2010

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore.

      All photographs by the author and Roan Fair.

      Acknowledgements

      First and foremost I must thank Roan Fair, who accompanied me on seven of the eight routes and was always so patient whenever I had to stop to write notes or take photographs. Many thanks also to Ian Uren who cycled with me on the Auvergne and Languedoc tour, and to Monique Cousquer, Gilles Rigole, Marie Sorin and Boris Wahl for their help and guidance. Last but not least, this guide would not have been possible without the wonderful support of my wife, Ilaria.

      Advice to Readers

      Readers are advised that, while every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Please check the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk) for any updates before planning your trip. It is also advisable to check information on such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

      Front cover: Pierrefonds (Route 2)

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      CONTENTS

       Introduction

       Which Route and When To Go

       A Short History

       Getting There

       Bicycles on Trains in France

       Roads

       Maps

       Passports, Visas, Health and Insurance

       Money, Banks and Payphones

       Public Holidays

       French Food and Wine

       The Tour de France

       About the Bike

       What to Take

       How to Use this Guide

       Cycle Tours

       Route 1 Finistère, ‘The End of the World’: Brittany

       Stage 1 Morlaix to Le Folgoët/Lesneven

       Stage 2 Le Folgoët/Lesneven to Lanildut

       Stage 3 Lanildut to Brest

       Stage 4 Brest to Le Faou

       Stage 5 Le Faou to Huelgoat

       Stage 6 Huelgoat to Morlaix

       Route 2 Champagne and The Kings' Forest: The Marne Valley and Picardy

       Stage 1 Aeroport Paris CDG to Charly-sur-Marne

       Stage 2 Charly-sur-Marne to Dormans

       Stage 3 Dormans to Villers-Cotterêts

       Stage 4 Villers-Cotterêts to Pierrefonds

       Stage 5 Pierrefonds to Compiègne and back

       Route 3 The Wine Road and Bas-Rhin: Alsace

       Stage 1 Colmar to Barr

       Stage 2 Barr to Saverne

       Stage 3 Saverne to Niederbronn-les-Bains

       Stage 4 Niederbronn-les-Bains to Haguenau

       Route 4 An Alpine Experience: Geneva to Grenoble

       Stage 1 Geneva to St Jean-de-Sixt

       Stage 2 St Jean-de-Sixt to Albertville

       Stage 3 Albertville to St Jean-de-Maurienne

       Stage 4 St Jean-de-Maurienne to Le Bourg d'Oisans

       Stage 5 Le Bourg d'Oisans to Alpe d'Huez and back

       Stage 6 Le Bourg d'Oisans to Grenoble

       Route 5 The Land of Lavender: Provence

       Stage 1 Arles to Cavaillon

       Stage 2 Cavaillon to Caromb

       Stage 3 Caromb to Buis-les-Baronnies

       Stage 4 Buis-les-Baronnies to Sault

       Stage 5 Sault to Mont Ventoux and back

       Stage 6 Sault to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue