Stage 1 Foix to St Girons
Stage 2 St Girons to St Bertrand-de-Comminges
Stage 3 St Bertrand-de-Comminges to Arreau
Stage 4 Arreau to Bagnères-de-Bigorre
Stage 5 Bagnères-de-Bigorre to Argelès-Gazost
Stage 6 Argelès-Gazost to the Col d'Aubisque and back, then Lourdes
Route 7 Rivers and Castles: Dordogne and Lot
Stage 1 Brive-la-Gaillarde to St Céré
Stage 2 St Céré to Figeac
Stage 3 Figeac to Cahors
Stage 4 Carhors to Monpazier
Stage 5 Monpazier to La Roque-Gageac
Stage 6 La Roque-Gageac to Souillac
Route 8 Rugged and Remote: Auvergne and Languedoc
Stage 1 Meymac to Riom-ès-Montagnes
Stage 2 Riom-ès-Montagnes to St Flour
Stage 3 St Flour to Marvejols
Stage 4 Marvejols to Florac
Stage 5 Florac to Alès
Appendix A Glossary: Bicycle Parts and Other Useful Cycling Terms
Appendix B Accommodation
Appendix C Further Reading
Appendix D Regional Specialities and Wines of France
Appendix E Information Centres
Appendix F Embassies and Consulates
Appendix G Route Summary Table
INTRODUCTION
Twice as big as the United Kingdom and four-fifths the size of Texas, France is a country rich in diverse landscapes and beautiful scenery, offering some of the best cycle touring in the world.
The routes in this guidebook have been specifically selected to give cycle tourists a taste of eight individual areas of France. Whether you want to tackle some of the steep mountain climbs of the Tour de France, or simply cycle alongside meandering rivers overlooked by hill villages and châteaux in the Dordogne and Lot, there is something here for everyone. The rugged, rocky coastline of Finistère and the magical, mythical woods near Huelgoat in Brittany; the vineyards and battlefields of the Marne, and beautiful forests of Retz and Compiègne in Picardy; the lavender fields and olive groves of Provence; the Route des Vins d'Alsace near the border with Germany; the volcanic Auvergne and wild Cévennes in the Massif Central – there is wonderful cycling country wherever you decide to go.
The eight routes – ranging from 209km (131 miles) to 354km (221 miles) in length – have been divided into several stages. Newcomers to cycle touring or cycling in France may wish to consider Routes 1, 2, 3, 5 (excluding the optional climb of Mont Ventoux) and 7, since none exceeds 2000m in total ascent, and all offer a splendid introduction to the country. Routes 6 and 8 (and the climb to Mont Ventoux in Route 5) will appeal to cycle tourists who are looking for more challenging rides in more remote or mountainous parts of France. Route 4 is reserved for those who want to attempt some of the classic Alpine climbs of the Tour de France, involving nearly 6000m of ascent between Geneva and Grenoble with some steep inclines at altitude.
Which Route and When to Go
Route 1 Finistère, ‘the End of the World’: Brittany
Character and terrain
This circular tour starts in Morlaix and heads north to Carantec and the Ile Callot (an island that can only be reached during low tides) before veering west across undulating farmland to Le Folgoët, which has one of the finest Gothic basilica in Brittany. The route then follows the rugged, rocky coastline of northwest Finistère down to the most westerly point of France, the Pointe de Corsen, crossing steep-sided, narrow estuaries, known locally as Les Abers. Follow the coast road round to Brest, cross the Rade de Brest by ferry to Le Fret and cycle the length of the Crozon peninsula to Le Faou. The route then becomes fairly hilly as it continues east across the Parc Naturel Régional d'Armorique to Huelgoat and its fascinating forest. From Huelgoat head north to return to Morlaix.
Best time to visit
Spring and summer.
Northwest France suffers more rain than anywhere else in the country because of the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean. The blustery weather that whips its way up the English Channel separating France from the UK has shaped the rugged Breton coastline. On a fine day (and there are many in Brittany!) this is an enchanting corner of the country. Spring and summer are generally mild, despite the occasional downpour, and some Summers can get unusually hot. July is usually the driest month, followed by June and August. It is often damp, misty and rainy from October through to March. Coastal campsites can get quite full from mid-July to mid-August.
Route 2 Champagne and The Kings' Forest: the Marne Valley and Picardy
Character and terrain
Leaving from Paris CDG airport you immediately cycle across undulating farmland to Vareddes and the tranquil Canal de l'Ourcq. Once Charly-sur-Marne is reached you are on the Route Touristique du Champagne, following the wide Marne Valley with its vineyard-covered slopes all the way to Dormans. Here you will find the magnificent Mémorial des Deux Batailles de la Marne, a huge memorial chapel dedicated to the war dead on the battlefields of the Marne.
From Dormans head north across more undulating farmland to visit the Oise-Aisne American Cemetery, the second largest World War I American military cemetery in Europe. The route soon turns west towards the beautiful Retz Forest, home to a wonderful variety of fauna including deer, rabbits, hares, foxes, pheasants and even wild boar. Some historic buildings follow: the house in Villers-Cotterêts where Alexandre Dumas, author of The Three Musketeers, was born; the Donjon de Vez and the Abbaye de Lieu-Restauré in the Automne Valley; the Notre Dame church of Morienval, one of the earliest and finest Gothic churches in France; and finally the immense château of Pierrefonds.
The route then follows a splendid cycle path through the Forest of Compiègne to Compiègne itself, then runs on to the Clairière de l'Armistice site where the World War I Armistice was signed, before returning through the forest to Pierrefonds.
Best time to visit
Late spring, summer, and harvest time in autumn.
Driest months are normally April and August. Winters are cold, and night temperatures stay low until late April. If you plan on camping it might be better to visit in spring or late summer/early autumn as there are few campsites in this part of France – otherwise book in advance for summer.
Above Celliers Dessus on the climb to the Col de la Madeleine (Route 4)
Route 3 The Wine Road and Bas-Rhin: Alsace
Character and terrain
Setting off from the city of Colmar, you soon cycle along the celebrated Route des Vins d'Alsace – the Alsace Wine Road – to Barr, passing through typically quaint Alsatian villages surrounded by vineyards. From Barr the route passes through beautiful woods and climbs up through the Forêt de Haslach to Wangenbourg before a long descent to Saverne. Once more the countryside opens up as you follow the Marne–Rhine Canal from Saverne, then cross flat farmland via a charming cycle path and skirt the southern edge of the forested Vosges du Nord Regional Natural Park all the way to Niederbronn-les-Bains. A wonderful ride up into the Forêt de Niederbronn follows with a visit to the ruined Château de Fleckenstein, situated literally a stone's throw from Germany.