World War had a less catastrophic effect, and the decline in population was only 10 per cent. In fact, during this period the area became a place of refuge, harbouring many exiles including Jews, who were fleeing persecution; the wild isolated areas of the Cevennes made a good hiding place. The Resistance (Le Maquis) played a role in dispersing and hiding the exiles in isolated villages and farms, the farmers being glad to have extra help with no questions asked!
Present-day Cevennes
Although the towns around the Cevennes, such as Alès, Mende and Montpellier, offer employment, economic opportunities for the isolated villages in the high upland regions now lie in tourism and in the sale of houses for conversion into secondary residences. Tourism is expanding as more and more people are looking for areas which are unspoilt and offer space and quiet. Some villages which, a decade ago, were silent and falling into ruins have now been renovated and brought back to life. The Cevenese who left their land in order to survive are now coming back, even if it is only to renovate the family farm and live there a few weeks a year. Painters, writers and other artisans are moving into the area, lured by relatively cheap property.
Perhaps the very fact that the Cevennes does not have an obvious agricultural or industrial future means it has a different role to play – as a refuge for those seeking a respite from the increased hussle and bustle of life in the big cities. In a world where roads and buildings are spreading everywhere, and the once green fields are covered in urban sprawl, we need the Cevennes to remain as it is – wild, empty, mysterious and forgotten!
Using the Guide
At the start of each walk details are given of the walk difficulty, time, height gain, maps, depart point and signposting.
Walk Difficulty
Most of the walks in this book are within the capacity of a reasonably fit person and are graded‘strenuous’(rather than difficult), ‘moderate’or‘easy’. The Cevennes region does not have high mountain peaks, so there are few sudden steep height gains and vertiginous places. Further details after the grading should give a good indication as to whether the walk is suitable for your abilities.
Time
The timings correspond to the average walking pace of a reasonably fit person, but this is only a rough guide, as everyone has a different rhythm. It is also important to leave plenty of time for stopping to look at the views, taking photos and for a picnic. Generally, you can expect to walk 3km in one hour if there are no excessive gradients. Four centimetres on a 1:25,000 map equals 1km (for quick measurement put three fingers sideways on the map – this equals roughly 4cm, which is 20mins walking). Appendix B gives a table of walk times.
Height Gain
When reading the walk details look carefully at the altitude gain. Extra altitude equals extra walking time, and steep gradients, whether up or down, can tire you if you are not used to it. Only a few walks in this book have a significant altitude gain; as a guideline, with a light rucksack (6–7kg) you should be able to climb 400m in one hour (250–300m with a weight of 15kg). The descent should be quicker, namely 500m in one hour. When walking, especially in southern climates, the heat and humidity will slow you down (see‘When to Go’).
Maps
Although each walk is accompanied by a sketch map it is recommended that you buy the listed 1:25,000 IGN maps, which are available in local shops. It is easier to buy them when you are in the region than to try to get hold of them in the UK. They cost around 9 euros (exchange rate is about 1.6 euros to £1 at the time of publication). Sometimes the local supermarkets sell them cheaper.
The numbers on each sketch map show key reference points, especially where there are major changes in walk direction, and correspond to a numbered section in the text. However, please read the instructions carefully, as there may be additional turnings that are not numbered but where the path is not clearly indicated, even on the IGN map. Unfortunately many IGN maps are out of date or inaccurate, and the jeep tracks and paths taken on the walks are not always shown.
Departure Point
In the text directions to the start of each walk (‘How to Get There’) are given from a specific town (Le Vigan or Florac). Where possible the walks start from points where there is a car park or good roadside parking.
Signposting
This gives an indication as to how well the walk is signposted and whether you are following a Grand Randonnée (long-distance footpath), a local path with its own different coloured splashes or wooden signposts.
If you see white and red horizontal paint splashes on your route you are on one of the Grandes Randonnées, which go all over France and are usually well maintained. Please remember that a cross instead of a splash (of the colour you are following) means that you are about to go in the wrong direction! Some of the local walks join these paths for a while and then break away to circle back to the starting point. Local walks have different coloured splashes, but in some areas these are rather arbitrary and can suddenly disappear for no reason. In others there are so many colours that one gets bewildered!
Many of the walks in the Cevennes region are newly signposted, and great strides have been made by the local tourist offices to make the walks clearer. However, it is a wild, remote area, so it is wise to stick to the signposting and splashes and not try to do shortcuts or take other paths indicated on the map – if you are lost you will meet few, if any, other people to ask directions from!
Observations
The initial italic paragraph in the walk description gives useful additional information, which might help the reader to decide whether he or she wishes to do the walk. It also includes historical background of the town or village the walk is starting out from, as well as anecdotes about the countryside or things of interest to be seen on the way.
Guidelines for Walking in the Cevennes
Read the walk description carefully and look at the IGN map and the sketch map before you go.
Make sure the walk is within the capacity of you and your companions.
Give yourself plenty of time by setting off early. If a walk gives a time of 5 hours, allow at least 2 hours extra for looking at things, reading the walk description and eating.
In the Cevennes, especially in the summer, you will need to take plenty of water and sunscreen – wear reliable sun glasses and a floppy hat.
Never deviate from the marked path – if there is a short cut it is usually shown. If you are lost go back the way you came, if possible.
If you are climbing be careful not to dislodge stones or boulders – they can gather momentum as they roll down the slope and hit other walkers.
Never walk alone, even if you know the route, and always tell someone where you are going.
Do not pass beyond any barrier indicating‘Proprieté Privée’unless the walk description indicates that this is permitted.
Even if the day looks hot and fine take waterproof clothing, as the Cevennes often has sudden storms.
Take your litter home with you. Do not pick the wild flowers but leave them for others to enjoy.
Do not light matches or make a fire, and take particular care when it has been dry.
Remember to shut all gates and barriers you go through.
When walking on roads, face oncoming traffic. Remember that in France this means on the left-hand side of the road.
Travelling to the Cevennes
The official French Tourist office in the UK is:
Atout France, Lincoln House, 300 High Holborn
London WClV 7JH
Tel: 090 68 244 123 (60p per minute)