the largest concentration of peaks over 4000m in Europe. The Swiss–Italian frontier forms the Alpine watershed and the most grandiose summits are to be found here, their huge glaciers snaking down into the valleys, on the Swiss side flowing down to the Rhône, on the Italian side draining to the Po.
The enormous barrier of the Pennine Alps represents the pressure zone created when the African tectonic plate collided with the Continental plate. Mountains were forced up and consequent erosion has produced the incredibly spectacular scenery that exists today. Peaks such as Liskamm, the 10 summits of Monte Rosa, the Täschhorn, Dom and Weisshorn (to mention just a few), whilst slightly less lofty than their famous neighbour Mont Blanc, are at least equal in grandeur and splendour.
The Tour of the Matterhorn owes much of its variety and interest to the fact that it visits two distinct regions: the Swiss region of Valais/Wallis and the Italian Valle d'Aosta. Although these two regions are physically close and have a shared history of trade, agriculture and simple survival in this harsh mountain environment, there are many contrasts of culture, architecture, food, language and traditions. Passing from one country to the other you will be struck immediately by the differences in landscape, architecture and farming methods before you even hear any language spoken.
Taking a break before descending to Zinal (Stage 3)
Walking through the mountains and the valleys, and passing through the villages, will give you a chance to discover what makes each valley unique, as well as experiencing the common cultures that unite the region.
Ancient Passes
Many of the trails used by the Tour of the Matterhorn have been used for centuries for many different purposes. Before motorised transport it was often easier to go over the high mountain passes than to descend to the main valleys such as the Rhône and Aosta. Frequently the mountain valleys were rendered impassable by deep gorges, or were prone to rockfall or landslides. Whilst the high passes carried their own risks – such as bad weather, cold, exhaustion, and attack from marauders – they were usually more direct and less tortuous.
There were abundant reasons for wanting to travel from one valley to the next:
Trade: in times past people bartered goods rather than dealing in money. Goods that were needed in the Alps included salt and spices, so the mountain people would take their own goods to trade. The wines from the Aosta Valley were sent over to the Valais and Tarentaise by the so-called Route des Vins (which went from Chambave to the Rhône Valley, probably across the Theodul and Collon passes).Male ibex jostle for dominance on rocks near Trift
The farmers would take their cattle over into neighbouring valleys to graze as part of the transhumance method of farming.
People travelled surprisingly long distances for work; for example, much of the Alpine architecture in Switzerland is based on the work of Italian builders from the Valsesia region, near Alagna.
Sometimes people needed to migrate because they had too many enemies in their native valley, or conditions had made survival there untenable.
One very interesting fact that has emerged from the passage of populations over high passes is that in the Middle Ages the Alpine climate was certainly warmer by degrees than it is today. The Theodulpass, for example, would seem to have been a major route in Roman times, and given the artefacts found there must have been less glaciated than it is today. There have certainly been periods of warmer climate in the past.
Despite these warmer phases, other periods saw mini ice ages; and the vagaries of Alpine weather meant that any excursion into the hills brought with it a risk of bad weather, not to mention illness or even attack. These people really had to want to make the journey, and often not from choice; their lives depended on it.
History tantalises us with fascinating stories about these travels – fortunes lost, treasures found, lives risked. Now as we trek through these mountains, generally comfortable in our high-tech gear and with well-filled stomachs, it's interesting to try to imagine the trepidation that travellers hundreds of years ago would have felt before setting out on these highly risky ventures. The frequent presence of chapels and crosses en route attests to the need to put their lives in God's hands. Hence on several cols in the Alps – such as the Grand St Bernard, Petit St Bernard and Simplon – we find hospices, erected by religious people to provide safe haven for those poor souls in need of food, shelter or security whilst trying to get to the next valley.
Glaciers
Heading up the Haut Glacier d'Arolla en route to the Col Collon (Stage 5)
Glaciers and glaciated mountains are a major feature of the Tour of the Matterhorn, both in terms of the views enjoyed and the terrain encountered. The valleys have been carved out by the ice, and many people now come to the Alps to marvel at what remains of these huge frozen rivers.
THE THEODULPASS (3301m)
This pass is one of the most famous in the western Alps. In Roman times it was called ‘Silvius’, and it is documented as early as AD3.
In 1895, 54 coins dating from 2BC to AD4 were found just below the col, and these are now in an archaeological museum in Zermatt. It must certainly have been hotter and drier in those days, since artefacts attest to the passage of the col on foot and on horseback. There was a small settlement on the col providing provisions and guided passage. From the 5th century onwards winters became more rigorous and the glaciers began to expand. Commercial caravans abandoned the route, but from the 9th century the glaciers regressed and there was a return of activity, with several monastic orders settling on both sides of the massif. The Little Ice Age from the 16th century onwards led to colder conditions and the glaciers grew accordingly. Cols such as the Theodulpass became more and more difficult to cross.
The chapel en route to the Theodulpass, now dedicated to Italian Alpinist Franco Bontadini
The col's title dates from this time; it was named after Saint Theodul, who was present in the region around 1688. Would-be travellers regularly fell victim to severe weather whilst attempting this passage, be it from the cold, avalanches, or crevasses. In 1825 a merchant fell in a crevasse with his horse, allegedly taking 10,000 francs with him – an incentive for bounty hunters for years to come.
Horace Benedict de Saussure (famed as the main instigator of the first ascent of Mont Blanc) came this way, and at the col apparently found the remains of an old fort built in 1688 by the Comte de Savoie.
The 20th century saw conditions become easier on the col – in 1910 a herd of 34 cows successfully made the passage – but, nevertheless, care must be taken here.
Glaciers respond to climatic change. In cold periods with heavy snowfall, glaciers expand downwards, only to retreat in warm dry periods. In the course of the centuries the climate has changed more than once, influencing the life of the Alpine populations.
The Middle Ages were a time of relative warmth which favoured the colonisation of the Alps at increasingly high altitudes. Glaciers retreated considerably and artefacts found at now glaciated passes attest to the fact that much of this terrain was ice-free for many centuries. The 17th century saw the beginning of the Little Ice Age, a cold period of heavy snowfall which lasted three centuries and saw an impressive regain of territory by the glaciers. Little is known about the consequences, but they were certainly negative for the inhabitants of the Alps. The most significant phenomenon was the advance of the glaciers which buried many of the high pastures and caused panic among the local people. The ice was literally pushing up against their front doors, and they were moved to call the priests to exorcise these demonic forces.
The mid 19th century saw the start of the warm period that has continued, with occasional colder intervals, to this day. Whether we are now in a natural cycle, or whether the