Tour of the Matterhorn. Hilary Sharp

of the glaciers is due to the effects of modern civilisation, is still a moot point.

How to Use This Guide

      This guide has resulted from several trips around the tour, plus years of walking in the region. However, no doubt some things along the route will have changed already; if you come across anything please let me know by sending an email or letter to Cicerone. Use this book as a tool to plan your trip. Once on the tour a map, compass and willingness to adapt to conditions are all essential; the book is not enough on its own.

      For this guide the Tour of the Matterhorn has been divided into seven stages. These are not necessarily one-day stages, and may need two days or more. I have chosen to describe the route this way so as to give each individual the choice of how to plan the trek.

      Each stage has an introduction, followed by the details for that stage:

       starting and finishing points

       altitudes, highpoint, distance in kilometres

       time

       maps needed

       transport options

       accommodation

       extra information that may be pertinent.

      Variants are also noted, and each stage also has escape routes briefly described along with transport options to regain the start point. The accommodation is noted by name, but details (phone numbers, fax numbers and Internet sites) are given in Appendix II.

      Walking down to Arolla (Stage 4 link route)

      Time for each stage is calculated roughly on the basis of climbing 300m every hour; the ascent time is halved for descent; where there are long flat sections these are calculated on a rate of 4km per hour. These times are given as a rough guide but should not be taken as anything other than that – this is not a challenge! Times are often noted on signposts in Switzerland, and may vary from those given in this guide. Equally you may find your own times do not match those given – after a day or so you'll have figured out your own rate of progress, so if there is a wild difference between your times and the times in this book, adjust your planning accordingly.

      The distance of a stage is difficult to calculate as there are often many zigzags on the ground that are not shown on the map. The kilometre distance noted is the nearest I can get, but will not be exact.

      Sketch maps accompany each stage. These are designed as a planning aid, and to show where the route goes. Relevant details have been noted on the maps but these are not a substitute for the real thing. When walking this route you need to take the relevant maps, and a compass, and know how to use them.

      Route profiles are provided to give a rough idea of the ups and downs encountered along the way.

      The section Short Walks suggests short variations of the trek, as well as some good walks from the main bases of Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia. You will find local guidebooks to local walks, and the tourist offices are always good sources for information on pleasant rest-day strolls or interesting explorations.

      This book contains a fair amount of information that is not strictly relevant to the trek, but which provides background detail about the history and nature of the region. You may only choose to read these sections when stuck in a hut on a wet afternoon with no reading material other than dog-eared out-of-date Alpine Club magazines printed in a language you don't understand!

      Safety and rescue and glacier travel are all covered in the guide; see Appendix V for information on the latter. The glaciers encountered on this trek are, however, relatively innocuous. You do need to rope up, and you do need crampons, but this is not major mountaineering.

      The Appendices contain additional information: further reading, accommodation details, glossary of phrases and terms, tourist office and guides' office information. Do please appreciate that these numbers and Internet details were correct at the time of writing, but that details do change. If a number doesn't work, or an email comes flying back ‘undeliverable’ from cyber space, get on Google and do a search.

      Haymaking at Jungu (Stage 2)

When to Go

The Tour of the Matterhorn crosses cols of over 3000m, where snow is likely to remain until well into June. The huts used on the trek generally do not open until late June or early July, so it is not advisable to set out before the summer Alpine season begins. However, later is not necessarily better as certain areas benefit from a coating of snow to disguise the horrors of denuded ski resorts, which are far more acceptable in their winter garb.

      You have to decide if you plan to walk every part of the route, or whether you intend to take the occasional lift, for example from Breuil-Cervinia to Testa Grigia. This section of the trek is quite ugly when there is no snow, but such conditions do allow you to walk up to the slopes. When névé remains walking may be more difficult – either because the snow is hard and slippery, or because it's a hot, late afternoon, the snow has partially melted, and therefore doesn't hold your weight.

      If you're planning to take lifts be sure to check their open season.

      The best time to do this trek is therefore during this brief summer holiday season. The earlier you go the more flowers will be in bloom on the hillsides; the middle of the season sees the most holidaymakers in the Alps; the end is generally noted for beautiful autumn light, but can be prone to fresh snowfall above 3000m.

      If in doubt call local tourist offices or the huts for up-to-date information on conditions.

How to Get There

      Zermatt

      By air

      The nearest airports to the Tour of the Matterhorn are Zurich and Geneva.

      From Britain Zurich is served by:

      British Airways www.ba.com tel: [phone]

      Easyjet www.easyjet.com tel: [phone]

      Swiss International www.swiss.com tel: [phone]

      Swiss International also operates from the USA and most other airports worldwide.

      Zurich airport is found on www.zurich-airport.com

      Many airlines fly into Geneva from Britain:

      British Airways www.ba.com tel: [phone]

      Easyjet www.easyjet.com tel: [phone]

      jet2 www.jet2.com tel: [phone]

      Swiss International www.swiss.com tel: [phone]

      BmiBaby www.bmibaby.com tel: [phone]

      From America: Swiss International (sharing with American Airlines), Continental and Lufthansa (sharing with United Airlines).

      From Ireland: Aer Lingus www.aerlingus.com tel: [phone].

      Geneva airport can be found on www.gva.ch tel: [phone] [email protected]

      Onward travel to Zermatt is best by train. The Swiss railway