Appendix F Further reading
PREFACE
Ursi village, and the Tar La high above (Trek 7 Stages 5–6)
My initial foray to the Himalayas was in 2000, to India and Nepal, where the Annapurna region gave me my first taste of the fascinating Himalayan Buddhist culture. I also visited the Karakoram of Pakistan. However, it was the mountains of Ladakh that drew me back to India in 2004. I was bewitched by the place, enchanted as much by the friendly, kind, hard-working and joyful people as by the tranquil landscapes and stunning vistas. Just being in Ladakh seems to bring a special peace of mind and calmness not easily found elsewhere.
I knew I would have to return again and again to experience the fabulous trekking trails, enchanting villages and magical monasteries. Trekking in the wild gorges, climbing to a high pass dusted with pristine snow, hiking under crystal-clear skies, enjoying a freshly brewed cup of tea with a stranger – these are the special qualities of Ladakh that stay in the memory forever.
To satisfy my newfound addiction I spent four months there in 2009, exploring the landscapes on foot, and covering more than 1000 kilometres. And still Ladakh draws me back! I remember leaving the region in late October 2009, at the approach of winter. As the plane took off, we flew over Spituk Gompa and then turned towards the southeast. I looked down at the passes I had and had not yet crossed, dreaming of re-walking the first and exploring the latter.
I am lucky to have had the chance to visit Ladakh a few more times since this guidebook was first published. I’ve re-trekked major parts of some routes and tested a few new options. There are some changes in the book based on this experience. January 2014 found me trying to trek in Ladakh in winter; and now, here I am again, getting ready for another winter trek!
Ladakh is changing. Roads are expanding along old trails and trekking routes. They make some places easily accessible, but they also reduce some treks or make them less enjoyable, particularly the classic Darcha–Padum and Padum–Lamayuru treks. There has also been a large increase in the number of visitors. There are more guesthouses in Leh, more cars, and a bigger impact on the environment. It is probably more important now than ever that we leave as few traces on the trail as possible, consume minimal resources and – in general – prepare our trip with consideration for the environment.
I hope this book will help you to find your own Ladakh story. I’m quite sure that once you have had one, you will want to have more. And my wish is that you will experience as much pleasure, enjoyment and fulfilment as I have in this incredible part of the world.
Radek Kucharski
December 2014
Leh, Ladakh
The impressive Shillakong canyon (Trek 6 Stage 10)
INTRODUCTION
Author’s rucksack and walking poles on the Gotunta La (Trek 2)
Situated in the far north of India, Ladakh is far more culturally and environmentally linked to Tibet than to the plains of India, Kashmir or the Indian Himalayas. But Ladakh is certainly much more than just ‘Little Tibet’, as it is frequently called. Located in the shadow of the Great Himalaya Range it is isolated from the summer monsoon rains. Like western Tibet and the adjacent former Guge Kingdom, its high elevation and low precipitation combine to create a high-altitude cold desert environment, with limited vegetation. The ethnic origin of the majority of the people is Tibetan; their language is similar to Tibetan, and their religion is Tibetan Buddhism. However – unlike Tibet – being at the crossroads of major trading routes between the Indian plains, Kashmir, Central Asia and Tibet, Ladakh has always had strong connections with the outside world. These interactions over the centuries have changed, enhanced and enriched the region’s heritage.
The Tibetan roots of the land and its people are not the only magnet for visitors seduced by the far-reaching Ladakhi landscapes and Tibetan Buddhist culture. Outdoor activities such as cycling and rafting are on offer, but trekking in the mountains is a major draw: from deep gorges to glaciated peaks, from wide valleys to narrow, high mountain passes, from alpine meadows to arid plateaux. There are popular routes where accommodation is in village ‘homestays’ with local hosts, others where fixed campsites with good facilities provide overnight comforts, as well as remote, exciting wilderness treks where you will not see anyone for days and will be totally dependent on yourself and your team. With its magnificent landscape, hospitable and charming people, rich heritage – and still limited numbers of tourists – Ladakh is a desirable destination for every trekker.
From a practical point of view, however, trekking in Ladakh is not always easy. The paths are not waymarked, and the number of villages limited. Food supplies must usually be carried from the starting point, and there are long stretches where water is unavailable. Additionally, the effects of high altitude make increased physical demands on the trekker. Creature comforts are few (although there may be a surfeit of spiritual diversions for those who engage the culture!). However, Ladakh is a perfect place for trekkers with a lust for adventure and sound knowledge of mountain walking.
Good pre-trek preparation is essential. Assess your experience and condition; check the available routes and choose a suitable one (a range of treks with different requirements are described in this book). An independent trek will give you much freedom, but is the most demanding choice; a fully organised group trip will provide more comfort and security, but you will need to compromise on flexibility. Hiring a horseman and a few pack animals independently is yet another option. Whatever you decide, this book will help with your preparations and give you sufficient information to follow the routes safely, and thus to make the most of your visit to this extraordinary land.
Geology
The Great Himalayas: the Nun Kun massif on Ladakh’s southwest boundary
We are looking upon the inexhaustibly rich rock formations. We note where and how were conceived the examples of symbolic images. Nature, having no outlet, inscribed epics with their wealth of ornamentation, on the rocks. One perceives how the forms of imagery blend with the mountain atmosphere.
Altai Himalaya Nicholas Roerich
Ladakh is located at the boundary zone between the Eurasian continent and the Indian subcontinent. The Indus Valley, regarded frequently as the spine of the region, is located just north of the so-called suture zone, where the two continental plates collided some 50 million years ago. North and south of the Indus are a series of mountain ranges, more or less parallel to the valley. These are the Great Himalaya Range that forms the southwestern boundary; the Zanskar Range – mountains formed of oceanic sediments – between the Great Himalayas and the Indus; the Ladakh Range – mountains formed of plutonic rocks – north of the Indus; and the Karakoram that marks the northern boundary.
Landscape
Ladakh has a very clear physical identity, which can be instantly appreciated by anybody approaching by road, either via the Zoji La (from Srinagar) or the Baralacha La (from Keylong and Manali). However, it would be a gross over-simplification to say that Ladakh constitutes