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Traditional Lead Climbing: A Rock Climber’s Guide to Taking the Sharp End of the Rope
1st EDITION September 2002
2nd EDITION August 2007
3rd printing 2011
Copyright © 2002 and 2007 by Heidi Pesterfield
Front cover photo copyright © 2007 by Simon Carter
Back cover photo copyright © 2007 by Topher Donahue
Frontispiece photo copyright © 2007 by Barry Blanchard
Illustrations: Tami Knight
Instructional photos: Lisa Dearing and Carl Davis
Other interior photos, except where noted, by author
Book design: Jaan Hitt
Cover design: Larry B. Van Dyke
Book production: Hayden Foell and Larry B. Van Dyke
Book editor: Laura Shauger
Technical editor of Chapter 8: Jeff Achey
ISBN 978-0-89997-442-2
Manufactured in the United States of America
| Published by: | Wilderness Press |
| Keen Communications | |
| P.O. Box 43673 | |
| Birmingham, AL 35243 | |
| (800) 443-7227; FAX (205) 326-1012 | |
| www.wildernesspress.com |
Visit our website for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information.
Distributed by Publishers Group West
| Cover photos: | Sean Isaac on the Grand Wall’s Split Pillar, the Stawamus Chief, British |
| Columbia (front); Meg Noffsinger in Boulder Canyon, Colorado (back) | |
| Frontispiece: | Mark Wilford in the St. Elias Range, Alaska |
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.
Safety Notice: Although Wilderness Press and the author have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur as a result of using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while climbing. The fact that a technique is described in this book does not mean it is safe for you. The information contained herein is no substitute for professional advice or training. Always check local conditions and know your own limitations. Climbing is inherently dangerous. The risks can be acknowledged and sometimes managed but never completely removed.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Pesterfield, Heidi, 1962–
Traditional lead climbing: a rock climber’s guide to taking the sharp end of the rope/Heidi Pesterfield.—2nd ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references.
ISBN 978-0-89997-442-2 (pbk.)
1. Rock climbing—Handbooks, manuals, etc. I. Title.
GV200.2.P47 2007
796.522’3—dc22
2007004958
In memory of Carol Jean Pesterfield
CONTENTS
Acknowledgments
Foreword
Introduction
1—Rock Climbing 101
• Leading
• Resistance & Ethical Debates
2—Exploring the Traditional Lead Experience
• Access