• Piece Selection
• Placement Frequency
• Stances
• Double Placements
• Blind Placements
• Fixed Gear
• Protecting Traverses
• Rope Positioning & Clipping
• Directionals
Movement
• Testing Holds
• Rhythm & Flow
• Energy Conservation
• Down-Climbing
• Hanging
• Backing Off
Falling
• Hazards
• The Physics of Falling
• Fall Factor
• Impact Force
• Impact Impulse
Establishing a Belay Anchor
• Location
• Fixed Belay Anchors
7—The Multipitch Adventure
Preparation
• Route Choice
• Partner Choice
• Weather
• The Pack
• Food & Water
• Gear
• Cooperative Racking System
• The Approach
Moving Up
• Route Finding
• Trail Line Management
The Belay
• Anchors
• Organization
• Belaying the Second
• The Changeover
• Leading in Blocks
Objective Hazards
• Poor Weather
• Lightning
• Rockfall
• High-Altitude Illnesses
The Descent
• Multipitch Rappelling
• Class 3 & 4 Terrain
• Scree & Talus
• Snow & Ice
• Epics
• Retreat
The Unplanned Bivouac
8—Introduction to Self-Rescue
Prevention & Responsibility
First Aid
Equipment
Knots & Hitches
• Friction Hitches
• Basic Mule Knot
• Munter Mule
Fundamental Techniques
• Rope Ascent
• Belay Escape
• Assisted Raise
• Assisted Descent
Leader Rescue Overview
9—Knot Craft & Gear Tricks
Knots & Hitches
• Figure-Eight Follow-Through (a.k.a. Rewoven Figure-Eight)
• Figure-Eight on a Bight
• Clove Hitch
• Overhand on a Bight
• Girth Hitch
• Double Fisherman’s (a.k.a. Grapevine)
• Ring Bend (a.k.a. Water or Tape Knot)
• Double Bowline
• Flat Overhand
Improvisation Techniques
• Carabiner Brake Rappel
• Munter Belay
• Hip Belay
• Bowline on a Coil
• Rope-Equalized Anchoring
• Double-Rope Lead Technique
10—Common Know-How
Ratings
• Class Ratings
• Yosemite Decimal System
• Protection Severity Ratings
• Grades
• Rating Translation & Style
Climbing Etiquette
• Common Cragging Courtesy
• Leave No Trace
• Access
Afterword
Appendix 1: The Clean Climbing Revolution
Appendix 2: Lead Ascent Styles
Appendix 3: Developments Before Sport Climbing
Appendix 4: The Fixed-Line & Drilled-Bolt Controversy
Glossary
Endnotes
Resources
About the Author
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Without the gracious assistance and never-ending support of the following individuals, this book would have never been possible: Carl Davis, Catherine Davis, Lisa Dearing, Doug Robinson, and the staff of Wilderness Press, especially Paul Backhurst, Jaan Hitt, Jannie Dresser, Roslyn Bullas, and Laura Shauger.
Additional thanks to: Jeff Achey; Julie Anderson; The Backcountry in Truckee, California; Brian Bax; Phebe Bell; Noah Bigwood; Maureen Bokeland; Tom Carter; Pete Chasse; Beth Christman; Ann Clemmer; Scott Cosgrove; Mike Davis; Steph Davis; Mimi DeGravelle; Joe Dolister; Topher Donahue; Heidi Ettlinger; Chris Falkenstein; Sharon Forsythe; Sue Fox; Patience Gribble; Regan Grillig; Steve Grossman; Sunshine Sunday Hansen; Jan Holan; Myrna Johnson; Ron Kauk; Bridget Kerr; Tim “Shaggy” Kipp; Tami Knight; Allison Kreutzen; Susie Lancaster; Elaine Lee; Bill McChesney; Billy McCollough; Dave Nettle; The Outdoor Industry Association (previously the Outdoor Recreation Coalition of America); Sarah Patterson; Mike Pennings; Holly Samson; Alia Selke; Hans Standtiemer; Squamish Fish; Peter Thompson; Greg “Thor” Tirdel; and Abby Watkins.
FOREWORD
As I hung from the sloping hold, my sweating fingers began to slowly grease off. My oversized hiking boots skated across the rock futilely searching for purchase as my right leg began a steadily increasing sewing machine Elvis twitch. Looking to the right, I could see the big hold I had to get to, but it seemed impossibly far away and with that first specter of doubt my arms immediately turned to Jell-O. As I awkwardly shifted my clunky rack of Hexes off to the side, I accidentally flicked the rope and watched in dismay as all the nice shiny stoppers and hexes I had placed lifted out of the crack and slid down the rope taking the last of my hopes with