the U.S.) are still 165 feet or less, I wouldn’t recommend a length less than 200 feet, especially if you plan on traveling, as newer routes (both sport and trad) in many other countries frequently surpass 50 meters.
In general, the larger the diameter of a rope, the stronger and more durable it is. Rarely seen anymore except in recreational settings are the 11-millimeter workhorses used frequently on big walls, where ropes suffer significant abuse from hauling and ascending. A 10-millimeter rope is a good choice for all-round trad purposes, although some climbers use smaller-diameter single ropes for backcountry ascents or for red-point attempts when weight might be a factor. By going light, you sacrifice durability and may have to retire your rope sooner than with a larger diameter cord.
Though a “dry” rope costs more, I prefer it over a “nondry” cord for trad climbing, particularly if you climb multipitch mountainous routes or in areas prone to thunderstorms. Dry ropes receive a treatment that helps prevent rainwater absorption. When a rope has absorbed a lot of water, it becomes heavier and less able to cushion a fall. And in very cold conditions, absorbed water can freeze, making the rope weaker and less manageable. While some treatments wear off with use, products can be purchased and applied to rejuvenate it.
Lead ropes are available in solid colors, bicolors, or bipatterns. The latter assist climbers in quickly locating the midpoint of their ropes. This excellent timesaving feature, which costs a bit more, may also increase safety. If you don’t have the extra cash, purchase Blue Water’s special rope pen (made without damaging chemicals), mark your rope’s center, and reapply as necessary.
Each type of lead rope is tested to failure (until it breaks) and assigned a strength rating based on the number of falls it tolerates. The average ranges from seven to nine and, as you might guess, larger diameter ropes tend to tolerate more falls. So, it is crucial for climbers to be diligent about recording each significant leader fall and retire lead ropes accordingly. (See Chapter 6 for more information on ropes and lead falls.)
Besides fall ratings, ropes are also rated for “maximum impact force” and “static elongation.” Static elongation refers to the amount a rope stretches during strength testing when weighted by a load of 176 pounds (80 kilograms). A low rating means the rope won’t stretch as much under load, a favorable characteristic for ropes used specifically for rappelling, hauling, and ascending. A higher elongation rating, which means the rope stretches more under load and is more comfortable for a climber, is desirable for leading.
Maximum-impact force is the force transmitted to a climber during a fall. The lower the impact force, the more the rope absorbs energy generated in a fall, transmitting less to the system and the climber. Since gear isn’t always optimal in the trad lead setting, a rope rated for lower maximum impact is preferable in some situations but not necessarily required. Because a lower maximum-impact force translates into more rope stretch, the downside may be a longer fall. (More information on rope strength and loads is discussed in Chapter 6.)
Many climbers who lead on a single rope own a second, smaller-diameter rope specifically for use as a trail line. This rope is used for descents requiring double-rope rappels, for hauling a pack, or simply as a backup for unplanned retreats. Your trail line can also be utilized as an emergency lead line should your primary rope become damaged. For this reason you’ll want a dynamic trail rope on which you’d feel fairly comfortable leading in an emergency. Personally, I’d lead on a single 9 millimeter in an emergency, but I cringe at the thought of taking the sharp end on anything smaller. Others feel differently based on the unlikelihood of such an occurrence and are willing to go lighter.
Handle all climbing ropes with care: avoid stepping on them, and keep them clean and out of the dirt. Rope bags are nice for casual cragging, but don’t fit easily into a pack. I carry a square yard of inexpensive nylon tarp material to keep my rope out of the dirt. Immediately retire ropes with damaged sheaths or exposed cores. Exposure to excessive heat (above 120˚F or 50˚C), sunlight (ultraviolet light), solvents, or chemicals including uric acid (found in urine) should also dictate retirement. Other signs of excessive wear that indicate the need for replacement include inconsistency in texture, unusual stiffness or softness, and glossy marks on the sheath. Wash your rope in a bathtub with warm water and no soap. Allow it to dry uncoiled in a warm, dry location out of the sun. Never put your rope in a dryer.
The Sterling Rope Company recommends these general guidelines for rope retirement based on use periods:
Three months to six months when used extensively or daily
About two to three years when used regularly on weekends
About three to five years when used occasionally
According to Sterling, the actual working life of a rope should never exceed five years.
Helmet
As Russ Walling of FISH Products says, “Helmets are cool.” “Brain buckets” have been available for years but the majority of climbers early on couldn’t be bothered—they were uncomfortable, heavy, claustrophobic, and hindered your sight. To top it off, they also looked geeky. Years ago a partner of mine demanded to know in frustration as her helmet slumped over her eyes, “When are the bike helmet people going to get together with the climbing helmet makers?”
Sometime in the mid-1990s climbers began to care more about their noggins than fashion and comfort, and helmets began to sell like gangbusters. In response, manufacturers began funneling more energy into helmet design, resulting in several lightweight fiberglass-blend models—which are honestly quite comfortable—featuring high-tech ventilation and adjustment systems. Since then, manufacturers have made helmets even lighter and more comfortable by developing options using molded polyurethane “foam” core similar to today’s bicycle helmets. It seems the jury’s still out on these items, but some critics report that while they offer better protection against side impacts (most likely the result of falling), they offer significantly less penetration resistance and impact protection (to protect you from falling rock or gear). A foam-core helmet is rated for one-time impact; after any such incident, it must be retired. More often than not the damage is visible. While their hard-shell cousins seem to be able to withstand more abuse, they too, should be retired after a single major impact, even though there may be no visible signs of demise. I still prefer fiberglass-blend models. When choosing a helmet, find an adjustable model that fits your head best and is approved by either the CEN or the UIAA or perhaps even both. Don’t order a helmet from a catalog unless you’ve tried it on and are certain you like the design. Don’t end up with a helmet you hate—it’s too easy to leave an unsatisfactory helmet at the base of a climb if you even bring it to the site.
Make sure your helmet adjusts properly for a snug fit. One gear supplier told me his company performed its own tests on helmets and discovered that some, although UIAA-approved, fit poorly after all the manufacturer’s directions were followed. If, after adjustments, your helmet shifts even slightly to the back or side of your head, it’s not going to provide the proper protection.
A helmet protects you from more than just rockfall. The most common climbing head injuries occur as the result of lead climbing falls. Perhaps the new lightweight helmets will gain favor in some settings in the future because of this fact. Still you must consider that a falling carabiner or a shard of ice rocketing down the face of a climb on a warm spring day can crack a skull as well. But, since a helmet cannot protect you from extreme impact forces, do what you can to stay out of harm’s way (see “Rockfall”).
Chalk Bag
Choose a chalk bag on the larger side. Smaller bags are usually designed with sport climbers in mind, who rarely need to chalk up more than their finger tips. Widemouthed bags are generally preferred by traditional lead climbers because the design allows climbers to coat their entire hands easily. Attach the bag to your waist with tubular nylon webbing instead of purchasing a belt with a plastic buckle. Thread it through both the bag and your belay/rappel loop and secure with a ring bend (see “Knots & Hitches”). Now it functions as a harness back-up and provides an extra sling