your skis to your pack and hike it. At the true Fern Lake Trailhead, continue west on the well-signed and well-traveled Fern Lake Trail. Sections here can be icy or blown clear. Keep your skis on your back for now. After 1.7 miles (2.45 total), you’ll arrive at the Pool, where a bridge crosses the Big Thompson River (UTM: 13 443955 4466728). Finally, click into your skis and skins. Immediately after the Pool the trail forks. The left fork goes to Cub Lake. Take the right fork, which ascends a short rise before continuing west en route to Fern Lake. After about a half mile, you’ll reach a series of switchbacks that rapidly gain elevation (especially compared to the flat valley you just hiked) as you climb past Fern Falls. Two miles beyond the Pool, pass a signed trail junction for the primitive Spruce Lake Trail. Continue for 0.1 mile farther on the Fern Lake Trail, arriving at the north shore of Fern Lake after a total of 4.55 miles (UTM: 13 442597 4465496). The National Park Service Patrol Cabin, closed in winter, sits just in the trees off the northwest corner of the lake. If conditions permit, skin out onto the lake and admire the views of Joe Mills Mountain, the Little Matterhorn, and Notchtop. Otherwise, travel east and south around the northeastern perimeter of the lake on the continuation of the Fern Lake Trail to reach the base of the runs.
The National Park Service ranger patrol cabin on the north shore of Fern Lake
THE DESCENTS
Though trails were rumored to have been cut here, most descents around Fern Lake are of the “wild” variety—true backcountry skiing. Opportunities are nearly limitless in the cirques to the west of the lake. But for nearby runs, try two options: Round Pond and Marigold Lake.
Round Pond: From the eastern shore of Fern Lake, climb steeply up to Round Pond, at the saddle between Joe Mills Mountain and Mt. Wuh. Descend your ascent route.
Marigold Lake: From the southern shore of Fern Lake, climb south-southwest up to Marigold Lake, which sits beneath the steep north face of Joe Mills Mountain. Descend a series of open runs back to the lake.
THE APRÈS SKI
The nearest town, Estes Park, is littered with restaurant options.
Visit www.estesparkcvb.com/dining.cfm. When you’re ready for dessert, the caramel apples at Laura’s are divine (129 East Elkhorn Avenue, 866-586-4004, www.laurasfudgeofestes.com).
Trip 5
HIDDEN VALLEY
THE ESSENTIALS
Nearest Town Estes Park
Distance 1.8 miles max.
Vertical 2200’
Season December to April
Elevation Range 9400’ to 11,600’
Difficulty Rating Moderate
Skiing Rating
SNOTEL Station Bear Lake (322)
Forest Zone Rocky Mountain National Park
CAIC Zone Front Range Mountains
USGS Quad Trail Ridge
Weather COZ033
THE HISTORY
The Hidden Valley ski area, as with many others, got its start with hearty backcountry skiers who schussed its slopes before lifts ever came to town. An above-treeline area along Trail Ridge known as the Big Drift was their first target. Soon, there was a rope tow, and by the 1940s, three rope tows (each powered by old auto engines). Ranger Jack Moomaw (of Fern Lake fame), reportedly cut a trail discreetly, one tree at a time. His project—the Federation Internationale du Ski, also known as “Suicide”—supposedly dropped 1200 feet in less than a mile, and was just wider than a bridle path.
In 1949, a lift ticket cost just 50 cents. Then, in the 1950s, surplus military buses were used to shuttle skiers up Trail Ridge Road, and a basic lodge was installed at the base of the ski area. Ski Hidden Valley officially opened in 1955 with a combination of T-bars and Poma lifts. The Estes Park Recreation District operated the area, which flourished throughout the 1960s, despite having a reputation for the worst record in medical emergencies (mostly broken bones and knee injuries).
In December 1971, the ski area finally succeeded in convincing the national park to permit the installation of a double-chairlift. But Rocky Mountain National Park didn’t like it. Sometime during the 1970s, the park took over ownership and operation of the ski area. By 1977, the double-chairlift had been removed. The tows and other lifts soon followed, and the buildings were demolished. Ski Hidden Valley closed down in 1991.
Since that time, the national park has built a new base lodge, which today serves as a ranger station, warming hut, and restroom facility for the winter sports sledding area nearby. It’s also a launching point for backcountry skiers intent on schussing the old runs of Hidden Valley.
THE TRAILHEAD
Begin at the Hidden Valley winter use recreation area (UTM: 13 444349 4471630), located within Rocky Mountain National Park. From downtown Estes Park, follow Route 36 to the Beaver Meadows Entrance. From the gate, continue west on Route 36, which becomes Trail Ridge Road. Shortly after the Beaver Pond Trailhead, the road makes a switchback where it turns back sharply to the east. At the apex of the switchback, turn right, follow the signs for Hidden Valley, and park in the lot at the National Park Service ranger station. The station has public restrooms, a warming room, and historic photos of the old Hidden Valley ski area.
Alternatively, from downtown Estes Park, follow Route 34 to the Fall River Entrance. From the gate, continue west on Route 34 through Horseshoe Park. Route 34 ends at a T intersection with Trail Ridge Road. Turn right and continue past the Beaver Pond Trailhead, joining the directions above.
The “Buzz”
Hidden Valley is great when there’s high avalanche danger elsewhere. It has a low enough angle that it doesn’t present a lot of risk. The warming hut at the base, and its proximity to the Front Range are great. Navigation is easy—you can’t make many wrong turns here. On the other side of the coin, it gets a lot of traffic, and on the way in you have to dodge tourists taking pictures of the elk. The top—where the best skiing is—can be exposed to the wind, but it’s great for laps if conditions are good.
—Tom H.
THE APPROACH
Begin at the Hidden Valley winter use recreation area. From the lodge, start out west up the floor of the valley. Almost immediately you’ll pass a small sledding hill on your left. At mile 0.1, you’ll see the lift line for Lower T-Bar and the ski trail, Spruce, on your left (UTM: 13 444213 4471566). Turn left here if you intend to ski these runs. Otherwise, continue west up the main ski trail, Columbine, which by now is well-defined.
At mile 0.35, you’ll come to a prominent fork in the trail (UTM: 13 443810 4471422). The left fork is the ski trail, Aspen. You can ascend it all the way to Trail Ridge Road, where it intersects the top of the Lower T-Bar lift line. Do so if you plan to ski it. Otherwise, continue on Columbine.
At mile 1.1, you’ll reach Trail Ridge Road (UTM: 13 442699 4471187). This is the top of Columbine. If conditions look good, cross Trail Ridge Road and continue your ascent up the “Big Drift,” also known as Upper Main Slope.
THE DESCENTS
The descents are most easily seen on the topo map and aerial photo. However, the following major landmarks will serve to orient you to the possibilities:
Spruce and Lower T-Bar: the first runs encountered