Peter Bronski

Powder Ghost Towns


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“exceptionally good.” The agency estimated that the ski season could run from November to April, with a natural 50-inch base in February, an average annual snowfall of 250 inches, and a maximum annual snowfall of 450 inches.

      Then, in 1993, California developer Fred Sauer unveiled a new plan. Sauer’s idea was to build a new ski resort, Seven Utes Resort, on the north face of Seven Utes Mountain. In addition to skiing, the development would have included a major hotel, ice-skating rink, golf course, spa, tennis facilities, and more. The base area would have been located near Ranger Lakes, close to the site of the present-day visitor center. The sum total of the development would have been an incredible 4500 acres, putting it almost on par with Vail for sheer size.

      Almost from the beginning, though, the proposed ski resort was mired in challenges. The land on which Sauer desired to build was located within Colorado State Forest. In other words, if he wanted to build, he would need to buy some prime real estate outright. The sale of state trust land is prohibited, however, and the execution of Sauer’s plan would have required a complicated land exchange of 1200 acres. In addition, the resort would have bordered both Routt National Forest and Rocky Mountain National Park, further complicating the legalities. The Poudre Canyon Group of the Sierra Club rose up against the project. Also, despite the likelihood that the development would have brought an economic boost to the region, nearby residents of tiny, rural Gould fought Sauer. Led by Don Ewy, a self-employed logger, the group of community activists, environmentalists, ranchers, loggers, and residents successfully opposed the resort.

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      Skinning up to the saddle between Seven Utes Mountain and Mount Mahler

      By mid-November 1993, the State Land Board had received more than 2200 comments, including 1600 letters. Of those 2200 comments, fewer than 900 were supportive of Seven Utes. Governor Roy Romer publicly opposed the project. By December 15, 1993, Seven Utes Resort was dead.

      Today, the Seven Utes and Cameron Pass area remains one of the least populated and least developed corners of Colorado’s High Country. The land is wild, the scenery is largely uninterrupted by human development, and the backcountry skiing draws a passionate and dedicated following of folks, including a large contingent from the Fort Collins area. The closest you’ll come to lift-served skiing here is the Diamond Peaks Ski Patrol, an all-volunteer group of backcountry skiers trained in search and rescue and avalanche awareness. Otherwise, to ski Seven Utes Mountain and the would-be Seven Utes Resort is to experience the kind of great conditions that caused developers like Sauer to dream of building a ski area here in the first place.

      THE TRAILHEAD

      Begin at the Seven Utes Trailhead (UTM: 13 420910 4484022), which is located on the south side of Colorado Highway 14 between Gould and Cameron Pass, at the old road to the M-M Cabins. If you’re coming from the east, from the summit of Cameron Pass, drive west on Colorado 14 for 4 miles. If coming from the west, measure from the junction of Colorado 14 and County Route 21 in the town of Gould. Drive east on Colorado 14, passing the Moose Visitor Center (State Forest Headquarters at Ranger Lakes) at mile 4.0, and arriving at the trailhead at mile 5.6.

      THE APPROACH

      From the trailhead, follow the well-defined road south-southeast, and then east-southeast for 0.2 mile. Here, the road passes through a small stand of evergreens with a state forest gate before the terrain opens up again into a wide meadow. Do not continue east across the meadow. Instead, turn south on an unnamed trail, descend slightly to cross the Michigan River, and continue south-southwest on a well-beaten trail. The turnoff for this trail on the west end of the meadow can be difficult to find. Take your time.

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      The meadow and avalanche chute at the base of the Seven Utes headwall

      Once on the well-established trail south of the Michigan River, follow it. At mile 0.5, the route makes a sharp left turn, heading east as it makes a gentle, rising traverse of the lower north slopes of Seven Utes Mountain. At mile 0.75, the route makes a right turn, again heading due south. Here, the forest opens up into a small clearing, and the slope falls away to your left (west) into an unnamed creek drainage. The trail climbs through the central and western portions of the clearing, before joining a Jeep road that sees snowmobile use in the winter. Follow the now-wider route out of the southwest corner of the clearing. The road here goes west before making a switchback to the southeast. At the next switchback—where the road again turns sharply northwest—leave the road and head due south into the trees on a narrow, and at times (especially if no one’s broken trail before you) faint trail through the trees (UTM: 13 421377 4483034).

      The route now continues due south, contouring—and very subtly gaining elevation—across the western side of the Seven Utes drainage. At mile 1.4, you’ll reach the valley floor, and then cross to the eastern side of the drainage. Continue to subtly contour up the east side of the drainage until you intersect an unmistakable old Jeep road. Turn south-southwest on that road. As you continue, views will open up to the west of the north ridge of Seven Utes, and of the mountain’s summit and avalanche chutes to the southwest. At mile 1.9, the road will deposit you into an open meadow (UTM: 13 421393 4481483) at the base of several prominent gullies, and beneath the headwall of the Mount Mahler-Seven Utes saddle. Hug the east edge of the meadow, and then switchback up the 30-degree headwall until you surmount the 11,000-foot saddle (UTM: 13 421350 4481049).

      From here, turn east and follow the crest of Seven Utes’ east ridge. Several skiable gullies will be below you to your right (north). As you crest treeline at 11,100 feet, stay away from the northeastern edge of Seven Utes’ east ridge and summit area, where a large cornice builds and the starting zones for several large avalanche paths begin. Arrive at the 11,453-foot summit at mile 2.6 (UTM: 13 420783 4481299).

      THE DESCENTS

      Three routes lie in a north-facing bowl beneath Seven Utes’ summit, bounded by the mountain’s north and northwest ridges:

      Far Northwest Ridge: From the summit, continue northwest for 0.4 mile down the northwest ridge. Before reaching treeline, drop off the ridge onto a northeast-facing 25-degree pitch.

      Northwest Ridge: From the summit, continue northwest for 0.3 mile down the northwest ridge. Drop off the ridge onto a northeast-facing 27-degree pitch separated from the previous run by a stand of trees.

      North Face: From the summit, descend due north into a large, open bowl with a maximum pitch of around 28 degrees.

      All three runs on the north side of the mountain funnel into a single creek drainage. To return to the trailhead, you can ascend back to the summit and retrace your approach, or follow the creek drainage northwest to where it intersects an old 4WD road just below the 10,200-foot elevation contour. Follow that road, bearing right at all forks, to return to the switchback where you diverged into the trees of the Seven Utes drainage on the approach.

      Two runs descend the east face of Seven Utes’ north ridge:

      The “Buzz”

      You can ski right from the summit, most of the mountain is sheltered from the wind—so it holds great powder on a primarily north-facing aspect—and the angle of the runs is comfortable.

      —Sara A.

      Far North Ridge: From the summit, head north down the mountain’s north ridge for 0.3 mile. From there, drop east. The run starts out around 29 degrees before reclining to a fairly constant 26 degrees.

      North Ridge: From the summit, head north down the mountain’s north ridge for 0.15 mile. From there, drop northeast into a gully that runs to the valley floor. Beware of avalanche hazard.

      Four runs descend Seven Utes’ east ridge and the north face of the Mount Mahler-Seven Utes headwall:

      East Ridge: From the summit, descend the east ridge you ascended on the approach. Use this run to access the remaining three.

      West Gully: From the shoulder of the east ridge, drop into a northeast-facing gully that descends to the meadow at the base