follows an old cobbled track that dates back to this time.
The eighth and ninth centuries saw the spread of Christianity and the founding of several abbeys, including that at Wissembourg.
The GR53 and GR5 through the Vosges lie for the most part in the region of Alsace, but south from the Ballon d’Alsace to the Swiss border the route runs through Franche-Comté. These regions have very different histories. Alsace, in particular, has a heritage that is part French and part German, and an overview of the various border changes helps to put the region’s identity into perspective.
Roman rule collapsed early in the fifth century and Alsace was invaded by the Alemanni from across the Rhine. The Alemannic language of these invaders was related to German, differing substantially from the language of the Franks, and although French is now spoken throughout Alsace, local dialects derived from this early Alemannic still thrive.
After the death of Charlemagne in 814 the land to the west became France and was separated from the German-speaking lands further east. In 870 it was agreed by treaty that Alsace should be joined to the German states to the east, and Alsace was to remain a part of this German confederation until 1648.
The region initially prospered, but by the 13th century central control was lacking and local landowners took advantage of the situation, vying with each other for power. Alsace became a mosaic of tiny ‘states’, and a consequence of this can be seen in the Northern Vosges today, where 30 castles, most of them now ruined, lie within the boundaries of the regional park: the GR53 passes a good selection of these strongholds.
Freundstein Castle (Section 6)
By the end of the 16th century prosperity was returning, with silver mines and wine production generating wealth in the region, but the outbreak of the Thirty Years War in 1618 brought a period of turmoil. The treaty that finally ended this conflict transferred significant parts of Alsace to France, and full integration followed, so that by 1697 the Rhine was declared to be the official French border.
Alsace was to remain a part of France until the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–71, when invading Prussian forces won a major battle near Wissembourg. Alsace was ceded to the German Reich and the ridge of the Vosges became the new Franco–German border. Old frontier stones from this era run alongside the GR5 (Section 5).
Early in World War I, major battles were fought in the Vosges at Le Linge and Hartmannswillerkopf, and trenches have survived to the present day. The GR5 passes close to these old front lines on two occasions (Sections 5 and 6).
World War I lines at Hartmannswillerkopf (Section 6)
German defeat saw Alsace pass back into French hands in 1918, but it was an uneasy peace. After the invasion in 1940, the Germans considered Alsace to be a true part of the Reich, not part of occupied France; many of the men were conscripted into the German army and sent to the Russian front. Alsace was retaken by the French during the winter of 1944–45.
To the south of Alsace the region that now forms Franche-Comté also has its origins in the same confederation of Germanic states, although this Germanic heritage is less visible in Franche-Comté today. As early as 1295 the region passed into French control, and there followed a period as part of an autonomous Burgundy.
From 1493 to 1635 Franche-Comté was a Spanish possession, although Spain had little effect on day-to-day life, and during this period France still laid claim to the region, making several attempts to annex it. French control was finally established in 1678 and Franche-Comté has remained a part of France ever since. While the lower lands around Belfort and Montbéliard have attracted industry and a dense population, the more exposed uplands of the Jura have always been sparsely populated.
Wildlife
The wide variety of habitats in the Vosges and Jura supports a wealth of wildlife. Although largely wooded, the region also has open highlands, gorges, river flood plains, lakes and wetlands, giving scope for many different plants and animals to thrive.
In the fields and vineyards at the edge of the plain, storks, the emblem of Alsace and once a common sight, had become alarmingly scarce, but now, thanks to captive-breeding programmes and other conservation efforts, the decline has been reversed. There is a good chance of seeing these elegant birds close to the GR5, particularly in the region of Ribeauvillé (Sections 4 and 5).
Storks on an Alsace rooftop
Rising into the hills, the extensive woodland cover provides shelter throughout for wild boar, with especially high numbers in the undisturbed corners of the Northern Vosges. Often the only sign that boar are nearby is the sound of something large but unseen crashing headlong through the undergrowth. Roe and red deer are to be found in the woods, but they slip away without creating such a commotion. The trees also provide shelter for red squirrel, often a much darker form than found in the UK. Dormice, beech marten, pine marten and wild cat are all present, but you need to be lucky to see them. The same goes for lynx, which were reintroduced into parts of Switzerland and spread to France from there, but numbers are low.
Wild boar are common in the Northern Vosges
The woodlands attract a variety of bird species, although it is not always easy to get good views among the trees. The black woodpecker, largest of the European woodpeckers, advertises its presence by characteristically loud drumming, or you may hear the raucous call of nutcrackers, large brown crows that inhabit conifer woods. The capercaillie, largest of the European grouse, breeds in the forests of the Vosges and Jura, but this shy bird is rarely seen, despite its size. One bird that may attract attention is the golden oriole. Its loud flutey call carries through the forest, with just a glimpse now and again of a yellow-and-black bird flying from tree to tree. The song of the nightingale can also commonly be heard in early summer, usually in lowland scrub. The woods also play host to Tengmalm’s owl, goshawk and firecrest.
The rich growth of small plants can be very attractive in areas of more open woodland, with periwinkle and aconites, and sweetly scented lily-of-the-valley and daphne. Bilberries too are common, and the annual harvest of berries is used to make tarte aux myrtilles, a popular local dish in the Vosges.
The edge of the forests up around the tree-line is favoured grazing for chamois. These small, goat-like animals with black-and-white-striped faces are native to various parts of Europe and were introduced to the Vosges in 1956. Since then they have maintained good numbers in the region of the Ballons. They tend to seek cover during the day, so early morning and late evening are the best times to see them, with the eastern slope below Le Hohneck a good place to go looking (Section 5). Chamois are also found quite widely in the Jura, particularly near Le Mont d’Or (Section 11) and on the slopes around Joux Castle (Section 10).
Out of the forests, in the upland regions, there is a chance to see larger birds of prey, including golden eagle, buzzard and kite, and the sandstone outcrops of the Vosges and the rocky cliffs of the Jura provide excellent habitat for the peregrine falcon.
On open pastures the yellow gentian is common. This broad-leaved, yellow-flowered plant, often several feet high, is found throughout the region, and extracts made from the roots are still commercially important for making liqueurs and herbal medicines (Section 11). The yellow daisy-like flowers of arnica are also collected for medicines, and it is common in some areas of the Vosges. Above the tree-line a range of Alpine plants can be found, with pasque flower, wild narcissus, martagon lily and globe flower giving a delightful splash of colour in season.
Gentians on Le Mont d’Or (Section 11)
When to visit
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