can arise where different routes intersect, for example, in the Jura, the GTJ (Grand Traversée du Jura) and the GR5 both use red and white waymarks. Waymarking is done by volunteers, and the standard is usually high. However, GR routes do change from time to time, either temporarily or permanently.
Once in Switzerland the waymarking changes to yellow diamonds. These apply to all footpaths, and this short section of the GR5 is not distinctly marked. The route is followed by looking out for the regular signboards with directions to particular places.
Doubs Gorge (Section 9)
Safety and health
UK citizens should currently obtain a European Health Insurance Card before leaving home; this entitles you to the same services as French citizens, although visits to doctors or hospitals are not completely free. In addition, purchasing suitable insurance is recommended, particularly for non-EU citizens. Another valuable source of advice and treatment of minor ailments is the pharmacie (chemist’s shop).
Vipers are present in the area so keep a lookout, especially when among vegetation. Unfriendly dogs might also be a problem, although we have never been troubled. In the unlikely event of snake or dog bites, seek medical advice. The walker should also be aware of the risk of contracting Lyme disease from tick bites. Current recommendations are to check for ticks at the end of the day, completely remove any that you find, and seek advice if inflammation or other symptoms develop.
Another possible hazard in France is hunting, and walkers should be aware of the possibility of shooting in the vicinity, particularly during the autumn season.
Your own first aid kit should provide treatment for foreseeable minor problems. In addition, a survival sack or lightweight tent could prove invaluable if injured, caught out by bad weather or benighted in the hills. The likelihood of weather problems can be reduced, but not eliminated, by checking the weather forecast (la méteo), which can be found in tourist offices or newspapers.
Over-enthusiasm at the planning stage can cause problems too. Experienced walkers will already know their own capabilities, but if you are new to long distance walking some trial days before setting off (with a full pack) might help. To enjoy the walk it is really important to keep your bag as light as possible. The first few days can be the hardest, so it is a good idea not to attempt too much at the start.
If the worst does happen, in France the emergency services can be contacted by phoning 15 (medical help), 17 (police), or 18 (fire brigade), or 112, the general (multilingual) European emergency number.
Enjoyment of the outdoors will always involve risk, and it is the responsibility of each walker to look after their own safety.
Language
Visitors do need some basic French, even if this is just provided by a phrase book. German is commonly understood in Alsace, where although the local people are fluent French speakers, many also speak Elsässisch, the Alsatian language.
Money
Cash-withdrawal facilities are more frequent in the larger towns. A walker on the Jura section of the GR5 will find it useful to have some Swiss francs as well as euros.
Telephones and internet
Mobile phone coverage is substantial but incomplete within the Vosges and Jura, and coverage maps can be found on the internet. Most public telephones require a credit/debit card or a pre-paid card. International dialling codes are 0044 (UK), 0033 (France), and 0041 (Switzerland).
Internet cafés are scarce, but many public libraries provide internet access, and wifi is available quite widely in cafés, railway stations and other public places.
Using this guide
We have divided the route into 11 sections of various lengths, and have tried to arrange section ends at places accessible by public transport. The outline at the beginning of each section gives an overview, with highlights of what you can expect to see and comments on walking conditions. If you are only planning to walk part of the route, these outlines may help you choose between sections. Some suggestions for where you might make overnight stops are included, although doubtless you will have your own accommodation preferences. Each section includes a sketch map and details of the relevant topographical map.
For practical planning of the walk a list of facilities available on the route can be found in Appendix C. This table lists possibilities for refreshment, or where to break your walk, and intervening distances. These possibilities are not exhaustive, but we have tried to include all the budget accommodation (campsites and gîtes) likely to be useful. We have also made a special effort to identify accommodation on the more isolated stretches of the route. Up-to-date information can be obtained from tourist offices and the internet, and we recommend that you use these sources to supplement this guide. Be aware that village shops may close, and restaurants and hotels cover a range of prices.
Contact information for accommodation can be found in Appendix E and tourist offices can be found in Appendix D. Hotel details are not given for places with their own tourist office (where there is usually a choice of hotels). In most cases a telephone number is listed, but where refuges are not permanently manned we have, where possible, listed an appropriate website for up-to-date contact information.
The detailed route description is divided into shorter subsections, each with an indication of distance and approximate walking time, assuming a fairly moderate walking pace. Note that distances have been assessed in kilometres, and where equivalent mileages are shown, these have been rounded and so are approximate.
The guide also gives a brief overview of some of the other long distance routes in the Vosges and Jura.
Traditional houses in Andlau, Alsace (Section 4)
THE GR53 WISSEMBOURG TO SCHIRMECK
Grand Wintersberg outlook tower (Section 1)
SECTION 1
GR53 WISSEMBOURG TO NIEDERBRONN-LES-BAINS
Obersteinbach
The small town of Wissembourg, with its timber-framed medieval houses, makes a pleasant starting-off point; the buildings crowding together along the River Lauter to give the old quarter a picture-postcard appearance.
Most of the route from here to Niederbronn-les-Bains is through woodland. The hills are always relatively low, the highest point being 580m. However, as the path follows a succession of hills and valleys, in total there is a good deal of climbing to be done. The high point at the lookout tower at Wintersberg gives views over the Black Forest and the vast undulating forests of the Vosges.
What is remarkable about this section of the walk is the succession of castle ruins passed on the way, many of them taking advantage of the isolated sandstone crags that are characteristic of the Northern Vosges. Fleckenstein Castle is perhaps the most visited, its substantial walls standing on a high pinnacle close to the German border. The GR passes close to at least eight other castles before reaching Niederbronn-les-Bains, and there are several more a few kilometres distant. Among them the ruins of Loewenstein and Froensbourg are worth special mention, as both are in spectacularly elevated locations.
The Northern Vosges is never overwhelmed by visitors, so this first section of the route promises an interesting and relatively undisturbed walk.
A strong walker could complete this section in two days, but this would start the whole journey with a very long day, and there is much to see en route. We suggest a half-day’s walk to reach one of the hotels at Climbach,