approach from whichever direction, for the lanes are narrow and twisting right from the start. But, in common with its neighbours, it is grand walking country and every route is enjoyable from the very first step.
THE YORKSHIRE DALES NATIONAL PARK
Centred upon the core of this unique area is the Yorkshire Dales National Park, created in 1954, the seventh of the UK’s national parks. The then omission of Nidderdale, Mallerstang, the Howgills and the western outlying hills was heavily criticised, for although beyond the bounds of Yorkshire, they are geologically and geographically connected and equally deserving of protection. Forty years were to pass before Nidderdale was finally designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and it was not until August 2016 that the National Park’s boundaries were extended to include the remaining areas.
Fishing on the River Wharfe as it passes through Strid Wood (Walk 1)
The additional areas increased the park’s size by almost a quarter to 2178 square kilometres (841 square miles) to make it the country’s third largest, with the Nidderdale AONB adding a further 600 square kilometres (233 square miles). Somewhat less than half of this is actively managed as agricultural land while the rest consists largely of open country and moorland. Historic land use, geography and climate mitigate against extensive areas of woodland and little more than three per cent is covered by trees, the largest single area being the coniferous plantations encircling the higher reaches of Langstrothdale. Because of the geology, extensive bodies of water are also notable by their absence and, in fact, only two natural lakes of significance occur in the whole of the Dales, Malham Tarn and Semer Water. However, the gritstone valleys in the south and east harbour a number of manmade reservoirs, built to sustain the industrial towns of West Yorkshire.
The park’s resident population is below 24,000 – less than 30 people per square mile. But this figure is swelled by an estimated 9.5 million visitors each year, on average more than doubling the resident population. And while most people live in one of the three small towns lying wholly within its boundaries – Sedbergh, Hawes and Grassington – few of even the remotest dales are totally devoid of habitation. Picturesque villages and hamlets are scattered along the major valleys, with small steadings to be found everywhere, right up into the highest reaches. This all might seem like rather a lot of people, but wander away from the main centres, even on a bank holiday weekend, and you can spend a day on the tops with hardly a soul about.
Almost all of today’s roads follow ancient lines of travel, as do many of the paths and tracks that lie away from the tarmac. There are few main roads, however, and the majority of the narrow lanes are relatively traffic free and a delight to walk, cycle or ride. In addition, there are in excess of 3200 kilometres (2080 miles) of designated footpaths, bridleways and tracks, which contour the dales, climb the intervening hills and criss-cross the open moors. And, following the implementation of the CROW Act in 2000, around 1087 square kilometres (about 420 square miles), including the majority of the upland area, is now designated open access land.
Much of the countryside encompassed within the legislation is upland moor and heath and is identified on OS Explorer Maps by peach-coloured (open land) and light green (woodland) tints. Access points on the ground are usually identified by a circular brown and white symbol of a walking figure. Within these areas you have a right to wander (but not cycle), even where there is no path, but there are responsibilities too. These are generally common sense, such as following the Countryside Code (see www.openaccess.gov.uk) and being careful not to cause damage. Dogs are generally permitted too, but should be on a close lead near livestock and during the bird breeding season (1 March to 31 July). However, on some grouse moors, specifically those around Barden Moor and Barden Fell, dogs are not allowed at any time other than on designated public footpaths. Landowners are entitled to suspend or restrict access for short periods, for example during the grouse shooting season or while heather and gorse burning takes place. There may also be restrictions for conservation purposes. Such closures are notified in advance and should be respected, but do not affect any public rights of way that may run across the land.
PRACTICALITIES
Although none of the routes described in this book is technically demanding, many venture onto upland moors where paths may be vague or non-existent and conditions can be very different from those experienced in the valleys. Conditions can rapidly deteriorate at any time of year, and inexperienced walkers should be aware that it is easy to become disorientated in mist. However, taking a few simple and common-sense precautions will help ensure you get the best out of the day.
Navigation and maps
The mapping extracts (1:50,000) accompanying each walk are provided to indicate the general outline of the route and are not intended as a substitute for the map itself. The context of the wider area will not only add to the enjoyment of identifying neighbouring hills and other features, but is vital should you wander off course or need to find a quick way back. The area is covered by Ordnance Survey maps at both 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scales, the larger scale showing a greater detail that is often invaluable. Learn how to read the map and use it on the ground with a compass. A GPS receiver can be a useful additional aid, but you should know how to use it, be aware of its limitations and ensure you have spare batteries. The key maps for the walks in this guide are: Explorer OL2 – Yorkshire Dales (Southern & Western areas); Explorer OL30 – Yorkshire Dales (Northern & Central areas).
Careful planning
Plan your walk in advance, bearing in mind your party’s capabilities and the anticipated weather conditions for the day. The times given for each walk are based on Naismith’s Rule and are given merely as a guide. They make no allowance for stops along the way and in practice, your time may be significantly more, since it will depend upon your own level of fitness, ability to cope with the particular terrain and other factors such as weather.
The upper reaches of Ings Beck from Fell Lane (Walk 24)
The amount of height gain, poor conditions underfoot and lousy weather can add considerably to both the time necessary and the effort needed, and it is a good idea to make your own estimate adapting Naismith’s Rule to match your own performance. The basic rule takes into account distance and height gain, allowing one hour for every five kilometres (three miles) and a further half hour for each 300m ascended. By monitoring your own performance over a period to determine appropriate personal times for each element of the calculation, you can achieve a reasonably reliable formula that suits your own level of capability. Having said that, particularly if you are out alone, it is also a good idea to leave a note of your intended route and return time with someone, not sitting on the dashboard of your car as an open invitation to a thief.
Clothing and footwear
Wear appropriate clothing and footwear and carry a comfortable rucksack. The variability of British weather can pack all four seasons into a single day – sun, rain, wind and snow, with the temperature bobbing up and down like a yo-yo. All this makes deciding what to wear for a day on the hills potentially worse than picking out a new outfit for a wedding. The comprehensive advice is to be prepared for everything and with today’s technical fabrics, this is not as daft as it may seem.
Lightweight jackets and trousers can be both effectively wind and waterproof without being too cumbersome should the weather improve. Efficient underlayers wick away the damp to keep you warm and dry, and throwing in a fleece takes up little extra room. Good quality socks will help keep feet comfortable and warm, and don’t forget gloves and a hat. In summer, a sun hat and lotion offer necessary protection against UV, but shorts aren’t always a good idea, particularly where there are nettles and brambles.
Whether you choose leather or fabric boots is a matter of personal preference, but you should ensure that they are waterproof rather than merely water resistant. They should, of course, be comfortable as