Idris have been added to the updated edition of this guide to give wider coverage of the Snowdonia National Park.
Selection of routes
The choice of routes is, by necessity and design, a selective one. All the best scrambles, along with the most worthwhile routes in the outlying areas, have been included. The range of difficulty extends from scrambly walks to short sections of proper rock climbing. Average fitness and a head for heights will suffice at one end of the scale, whereas nothing short of mountaineer’s skill and daring will do at the other. Some routes fit neither category: scrambling over loose rock and up dripping, vegetated gullies seems to require a special cunning, for which neither hill walking nor rock climbing provides adequate preparation. The proficient all-round scrambler is a unique beast with some cautionary tales to tell.
Using this guide (including explanation of grades)
Route information boxes
Basic information has been included in a box at the start of each route in order to help readers decide whether the scramble is suitable for them. The headings are fairly self-explanatory: ‘Location’ refers to the mountain or mountain group where the scramble can be found and the grid references given here refer to the location of the actual scramble. (Parking details and corresponding grid references can be found in the longer ‘Approach’ section at the start of the main route description.) ‘Approach time’ is provided from the point at which most people would begin walking, up until the start of the scrambling. ‘Altitude’ is the height at which the scrambling, rather than the approach, begins. ‘Aspect’ simply refers to the approximate direction the route faces. The ‘Route length’ information is a rather subjective estimate of how much scrambling you can expect to find and whether the route is a long or short outing. This should be treated with caution because people move at vastly different speeds on steep ground, especially if ropework is sometimes involved. Approximate scrambling vertical height gains are often included, but again it is worth bearing in mind that scrambles are rarely vertical. The ‘Conditions’ heading is essential reading; it takes account of aspects such as rock quality and weather.
For the longer ridge circuits that include more than one scramble, such as the Snowdon Horseshoe, a rough circuit time based on an average unroped party has also been included.
Route descriptions
After an introduction and approach description, the routes are described generally or in detail according to the intricacy of the terrain. Remember that the described line is often only one of several ways of ascending the face. Use it as a guide, but be prepared to find easier or harder variations as the situation demands. A ‘Descent by this route’ section gives advice on using the route as a descent; if this section is not present, a descent is impractical or unduly difficult.
Descents and combinations have been given for all the routes to suggest interesting combinations for those seeking a longer mountaineering day. (See also Appendix B.)
Within route descriptions, alternative options are given as bullet points.
Early on the Cwm Glas Ridge with Esgair Felen behind (Route 63)
Route classification
The routes have been classified 1, 2, 3 or 3S, according to difficulty and level of risk. The progression from the very easiest grade 1 routes, such as the Southern Ridge Circuit or Seniors’ Gully, through to the hardest grade 2 routes, such as Bastow Buttress or Bryant’s Gully, is considerable; this increase in standard should not be underestimated. To give as much detail as possible we have sub-divided the grades for this edition. Borderline cases formally indicated by a grade of 1/2 or 2/3 are now indicated by the use of + or - symbols. However, it is impossible to apply any grading system rigorously, and at best it can serve only as a rough guide.
Above the Great Pinnacle Gap on Bristly Ridge (Routes 8 and 30)
Grade 1: This grade denotes routes that require no special mountaineering skills (eg Snowdon Horseshoe, Tryfan North Ridge, Bristly Ridge), and which should be within the capability of any adventurous and experienced hill walker with a head for heights. These routes are unlikely to require rope protection, and may be considered for descent or during doubtful weather.
Grade 1-: A particularly simple grade 1 route that limits exposure and is ideal as an introduction to scrambling (eg Moel Siabod, Seniors’ Gully, Cwm Glas Ridge).
Grade 1+: A grade 1 route likely to have increased steepness, technicality and exposure (eg East Gully, Milestone Gully, Nor’ Nor’ Groove).
The initial slabs on Direct Approach to Seniors’ Ridge (Route 44)
Grade 2: Things are getting much more serious now. These include the difficult gullies and ridges, and the easier face routes (eg Y Gully, Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders, North Buttress Variant). You may have to wait for optimum weather conditions, and even then difficulties that require rope protection may be encountered. Grade 2 routes often involve short passages of Moderate grade rock climbing. A wide experience of scrambling, or a background in mountaineering, is essential. Such routes are rarely suitable for descent. Note also that a grade 2 climbed unroped may be potentially far more dangerous than a grade 3 climbed with rope protection.
Grade 2-: Routes that provide an introduction to the grade (eg Llechog Ridge, South Face of Rhinog Fawr).
Grade 2+: The hardest routes in the grade (eg Bastow Buttress, Bryant’s Gully).
Grade 3: These routes have the attributes of grade 2 scrambles but with the additional complication of one or more short ‘pitches’ of simple rock climbing, often up to Difficult standard, on which rope protection is usual (eg Chasm Face, Dolmen Ridge). Someone whose background is limited to hill walking and scrambling will need to acquire a knowledge of basic rope technique before attempting these routes – in particular an ability to select belay anchors, fix running belays, and, in the event of a forced retreat, to abseil.
Grade 3-: Routes that offer an introduction to the grade (eg Craig Lloer Spur, South Gully, South Ridge Variant Rhinog Fach).
Grade 3S: Particularly challenging grade 3 terrain (eg Yr Esgair, Devil’s Kitchen, Jammed Boulder Gully). The scrambles given grade 3S have more sustained or exposed passages of Difficult grade rock climbing or crux sections on wet or suspect rock. They present mountaineering experiences where good judgement and knowledge of rope work are essential. Experienced climbers who solo grade 3 scrambles should be wary of 3S routes.
Star ratings
Routes have been allocated a quality rating from zero to three stars. Obviously this is a subjective assessment, although few will argue over the merits or otherwise of routes at either end of the scale:
| *** | acknowledged classics or routes of exceptional quality and interest |
| ** | routes of high quality |
| * | routes of merit but which lack continuous interest |
| no star | routes described for completeness or because they are the best available in that particular region. |
Equipment
Small first aid kit: Essential and should include: bandages, plasters, antiseptic cream/wipes, sun cream and surgical swabs. A tiny roll of duct tape can be surprisingly advantageous for holding swabs and plasters in place.
Whistle,compass and head torch.
Clothing: Your normal hill-walking clothing will generally be suitable for scrambling, but ensure that it gives adequate free movement for high leg and arm reaches. Mountain weather is changeable; it is wise