own safety. Mountain rescue should only be used as a last resort; teams in Llanberis and Ogwen Valley have seen a massive increase in callouts over the last few years, many of which could easily have been avoided.
Looking across Nor’ Nor’ Buttress at a coastguard rescue helicopter, East Face of Tryfan
To alert mountain rescue
Even in areas with no mobile phone signal, there is a high chance 999 will connect. Dial 999, ask for police/mountain rescue, and try to have the following details ready:
precise position of the injured person on the crag (eg name of route)
location of the crag (including grid reference if possible)
time and nature of accident
extent of injuries
indication of prevailing weather at the scene (cloud base, wind strength, visibility, etc).
Keep the phone to hand until met by a member of the emergency services.
Rescue helicopters
Secure all loose equipment before arrival of helicopter (weight rucksacks and jackets, for example, with stones).
Identify yourself by raising your arms in a ‘V’ as helicopter approaches. Do not wave.
Protect injured person from rotor downdraught (which is intense).
Allow winchman to land without interfering.
Do not approach helicopter unless directed to do so by one of the crew.
A final cautionary note
A guidebook of this sort reflects the author’s and updaters’ reactions and responses to the routes. Not everyone will agree on the exact lines to follow, the levels of difficulty encountered, or the best techniques to apply. The author climbed all the routes personally, specifically with the guide in mind, and at least once in every case without rope protection. All routes have been re-climbed by the updaters for this edition, often several times and in various conditions and ways. Nevertheless, when faced by an unexpected route-finding problem you must be prepared to trust your own mountain sense or judgement.
The same goes for loose rock encountered on the routes. Coping with unstable blocks, shattered rock and treacherous vegetation is all part of the game. Even the easiest scrambles can never be made completely safe, and some are potentially more dangerous than most rock climbs.
All the described scrambles are ‘summer’ routes. Even the simplest of them would be a totally different proposition in winter conditions, when ice-axe, crampons and winter-climbing skills are required. Remember that even when snow is absent the rocks may be coated in verglas – the thin veneer of ice rendering an ascent extremely difficult and dangerous.
A further consideration: the proliferation of indoor climbing and localised bouldering in the years since the last edition of this guide has led to a generation of technically gifted climbers who have not necessarily served a traditional mountain apprenticeship. Although such gymnastic practice is useful, it does not develop the skills required on an exposed mountainside at 900m in strong winds, a thundershower imminent and nightfall looming. Neither does it teach you to tap holds, to distrust certain blocks, spot the best line and avoid false trails. No grade of scramble should be taken lightly. Experience should be developed gradually: consider your limitations and the limitations of others in your party before setting out.
Above all, scrambling demands good judgement of terrain and an ability to assess the potential risk at every stage. These skills are learned gradually, beginning with the grade 1 ridge scrambles. This book can suggest only where the routes go and give advice on how to overcome some of the obstacles you will meet. Knowing when and how to turn back or when to carry on are skills in themselves; no-one can decide for you whether or not it is safe to continue. Ultimately the choices and the adventures are yours.
THE CARNEDDAU
Not as hard as it looks! On the Pinnacle Ridge of Braich ty du Face (Route 2)
The Carneddau
The Carneddau form the most northerly hill group in Snowdonia. There are few hints here of the rocky intricacy of the Glyders, or the rugged splendour of Snowdon; impressions instead are of barren summits and remote valleys.
A fortunate arrangement of ridges means that, having once made the initial height gain, several summits can be strung together in a high-level horseshoe traverse. Unfortunately most of the scrambling potential lies dormant under a blanket of heather, and much of what escapes is either too difficult or too loose. Nevertheless, the few lines worth following are enriched by their remote setting.
In broad terms the group lies within a triangle defined by the coastline between Bangor and Conwy, and the valleys that extend inland from those towns towards Betws-y-Coed. More specifically, the area of particular interest lies to the north of the A5 between Llyn Ogwen and Capel Curig.
The main ridges are aligned roughly in the shape of a T, with Carnedd Llewelyn – the highest peak of the group – appropriately occupying the junction. These ridges and their major intervening cwms – Llugwy, Eigiau and Llafar – provide the usual means of access to the scrambles.
Descending the short step to Bwlch Eyrl Farchog
ROUTE 1
Southern Ridge Circuit 1-
A superb ridge walk over four major Carneddau summits, punctuated by short, easy scrambles.
| Location | Carneddau, Ogwen |
| Grade | 1-*** |
| Circuit time | 5–6hrs |
| Route length | 16km |
| Conditions | Much of the route is exposed to strong crosswinds, although nowhere is the ridge particularly narrow or precarious. Take care with route-finding on Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewelyn in mist. Wet rock does not significantly increase the difficulties. |
This is the classic high-level ridge traverse of the Carneddau, and the best introductory outing in the group. Not only does it ascend four major peaks, but it also previews most of the routes described later in this section. Scrambling interest is spaced, short-lived and of minimal difficulty, although anyone insisting on including something tougher in their mountain day could substitute one of Routes 2 to 4 for their ascent of Pen yr Ole Wen, while Routes 5 to 7 could also be incorporated into the day with a bit of imagination. The route is on mostly good paths across stony ground or grass.
Approach
Via the A5 from Capel Curig or Bethesda. Park on the roadside near the bridge at Glan Dena (SH 668 605).
Ascent/Descent
Follow the track past Glan Dena almost