the shallow spur that protrudes into the head of the cwm. The airy traverse proves to be the key to an ascent of the buttress. Although of exhilarating exposure, positive holds are always close at hand. An escape is available before the traverse for those unfamiliar with what are essentially rock climbing situations.
Approach
As for Route 3, then head up to gain the left edge of the crag near the entrance to its left-bounding gully (in fact a broad couloir with several branches).
Ascent
Avoid a group of tilted blocks at the foot of the ridge via a 6m slab on the right (the blocks can be avoided more easily on the left, although the slab gives a useful foretaste of the difficulties to come).
Above, ignore easy ground to the left and ascend over small blocks to a larger one split by a 3m crack. A solid hand-jam gets you started and good holds reward a confident step up the crack. There are large belay spikes above if required. Continue easily for 12m or so until stopped by a slabby but hopelessly smooth wall (the last escape into the couloir).
From a belay block, traverse obvious heather ledges rightwards to their end. Continue the traverse via a surprising hand-rail flake to arrive at a perch on the right edge in a position of breathtaking exposure. Positive holds above offer great reassurance. Pull over the first rise then mantelshelf (or belly flop) onto another flat ledge with a block belay beyond. The major difficulties are now over.
On the exhilaratingly exposed traverse of Craig Lloer Spur
The apex of the buttress is not far above; gain it via heathery scrambling with a few interesting moments on curious, knobbly rock. The tedious scree of the broader upper spur requires a plod to either a simple scrambling exit through the final barrier wall or, better, by tackling the front face of its large left-hand section via a recess and tricky giant flake. Turn right at the top to reach the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen.
Descents and combinations
See Route 3.
Carnedd Dafydd (1044m)
Despite its great bulk, Carnedd Dafydd asserts its character only on the north western approach through Cwm Llafar. Viewed from elsewhere, its summit and flanks blend into the high ground of a ridge system which links the six highest Carneddau peaks. Rarely is it ascended for its own sake.
Scrambling interest is confined to the north face of the mountain – the Cwm Llafar flank. This headwall, evocatively named ‘Black Ladders’, is one of the most dramatic in Snowdonia. Although a rich source of winter climbs, its dripping tiers of rock do not invite attention in summer. Only on neighbouring Llech Ddu, the truncating cliff of Crib Lem, will you see rock climbers, and then only during the driest weather. With two exceptions the scrambling is disappointing, most of the obvious lines being either too vegetated or too loose for full enjoyment. Remoteness and atmosphere compensate.
ROUTE 5
Crib Lem (Llech Ddu Spur) 1
Simple, perfectly situated scrambling on the short and comparatively safe steps of a prominent ridge leading directly to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd.
| Location | Llech Ddu, Carnedd Dafydd (SH 665 635) |
| Grade | 1*** |
| Approach time | 1hr |
| Altitude and aspect | 700m, north |
| Route length | Offers substantial scrambling. Height gain approximately 300m. |
| Conditions | Despite its north-facing aspect and high altitude, the ridge dries quickly. The rock is reliable, and the route’s popularity keeps it clear of moss and lichen. |
An enchanting approach to Carnedd Dafydd through the long, secluded valley of Cwm Llafar abruptly changes to one of menace at the point where Llech Ddu Crag towers above the path. This compact 100m-high cliff guards entry to a long, low-angled ridge of alternating rock and grass arêtes that leads directly to the summit. Flank the cliff and this line – the finest scramble in the Carneddau – is yours.
Approach
Turn uphill off the A5 at the crossroads at the eastern extremity of Bethesda on Braichmelyn Road. Turn right at the crossroads in 1km to Gerlan. There are a few parking spots on the narrow lane, or alternatively park further down the hill. Continue through Gerlan, following the main right-hand fork of the lane and crossing a bridge over the Afon Llafar.
Just before the old waterworks gate follow the footpath sign initially up a private road, and cross a stile on the right. Cross a second stile at the top left corner of the field, and a third shortly after. Follow the track to open ground. Take the path, vague at first, that ascends parallel to the Afon Llafar to enter Cwm Llafar. Continue by a good path to huge boulders below the crag of Llech Ddu (SH 666 637). Ascend to the right of the crag to enter the hollow of Cwmglas Bach.
Ascent
Resist gaining the crest of the spur directly and instead ascend into the cwm almost to the level of the deep-cut left-hand gully that splits Craig y Cwmglas Bach, at which point a ramp of grass and stones slanting diagonally left between bands of rock will be revealed. This leads without complication to a shoulder with a large block of quartz on it on the spur above Llech Ddu Crag.
Ascend through seemingly compact rock on the right side of the broad frontage to gain the narrower and less steeply inclined upper crest. Avoiding the many paths, follow the crest and its myriad crampon scars directly over several knife-edges and short steps to the stony summit dome.
Soaring high on the crest of the Llech Ddu Spur
Descent by this route
A reasonable proposition once located. When peering down from the convex summit slopes, several similar-looking spurs can be seen protruding into the cwm. Crib Lem protrudes furthest. A band of scree across the broad lower spur signals the approach of Llech Ddu Crag (beware!) and the need to bear left (looking out) to find the grassy ramp at the distinct lump of quartz leading into Cwmglas Bach. Many have chosen a descent to the right (looking out) down soil and scree – ideal if approaching the Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders (Route 6).
Descents and combinations
To return to Bethesda/Gerlan:
Best of all, complete the Cwm Llafar horseshoe: follow the ridge east over Black Ladders and round to Carnedd Llewelyn, then head west to Yr Elen. From its summit head north west past the outcrop of Foel Gannol, and at a second outcrop bear west over steady slopes to regain the outward route at the river.
Descend north west from the summit of Carnedd Dafydd along the delightful Cwm Llafar Ridge over Mynydd Du, joining the approach path at the entrance to the cwm.
To return to the foot of the cliffs, follow Route 1 east until well beyond the Eastern Ridge of Black Ladders (Route 6) and then descend grass and boulder slopes into the head of Cwm Llafar.
Scrambling