rituals used for birth and death, the Japanese often say that they are born Shinto but die Buddhist. In fact, it’s easier to consider the two religions as forming one set of traditional practices rather than being separate or conflicting faiths. Some 84% of Japanese say they practice traditions related to Shintoism, the indigenous religion of Japan, while 71% practice those related to Buddhism, which arrived from China in the 6th century. However, the Japanese don’t typically consider themselves to be religious: more than 80% profess no religious affiliation and about 65% don’t believe in God or Buddha.
The annual Doburoku festival in Shirakawa-go
Government
Japan is a parliamentary government with a constitutional monarchy, the current constitution having been adopted in 1947. Emperor Akihito is the chief of state, while the prime minister, as of writing Shinzo Abe, is the head of state. The legislative branch of government, the Diet, consists of a 242-member House of Councilors and a 450-member House of Representatives. The prime minister is designated by the Diet, and is usually the leader of the majority party or majority coalition in the House of Representatives.
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT
For most visitors, Japan begins with Tokyo. But where do you start in a city that has so much to offer? If jetlag wakes you before sunrise the first morning, go straight to Tsukiji Market (page 11), where the frenetic market and great sushi will jolt you into life like a triple espresso. After that, take to the streets of nearby Ginza for its famed department stores, boutiques and high-end restaurants.
The next day, explore the city’s old east side, starting with Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa (page 9) before moving to the Ueno district (page 29) for several of the city’s best museums and Ueno Park. On day three, take in the magnificent Meiji Jingu Shrine (page 33) and neighboring Yoyogi Park before a change of pace among the teenyboppers of Harajuku and the fashionistas of Omotesando-dori (page 32). Another day could be spent first browsing the electronics and otaku (geek subculture) stores in Akihabara (page 28), then plunging into the crowded streets of Shinjuku (page 33)–the epitome of brash, modern Tokyo–or the more stylish Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown urban developments in Roppongi (page 10).
Whatever you do, don’t limit yourself to Tokyo, as mesmerizing as the city can be. Make an effort to get out of the capital and discover the incredible diversity of the rest of Japan. If time is limited, opt for a day trip to Kamakura (page 36), the 13th-century capital, and take in the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Hase’s Kotoku-in Temple (page 12). With a little more time available, head a couple of hours north to the World Heritage Tosho-gu Shrine in Nikko (page 13), the outrageously lavish complex built by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the man who united Japan and became the first shogun of the Edo era. Consider combining that with a night at a traditional Japanese inn, or ryokan. Alternatively, take a train just under two hours west to Hakone (page 39) for a soak in one of the area’s many natural outdoor hot springs and for superb views of majestic Mount Fuji (page 14).
The Shinkansen train tracks have been extended to the seaside city of Kanazawa (page 42), notable for its castle grounds and adjacent park, Kenroku-en (page 16), formerly the estate of the castle’s Lord Maeda. The city boasts some of Japan’s most delectable seafood in its famous Omi-cho market. The Japan Sea coastal area also is noted for its many hot springs, such as the Yamashiro Onsen (page 45), tempting for fans in need of a little luxurious bathing.
The Japan Alps are Japan’s backbone, with the country’s highest peaks, famed for their beauty, varied woods, wild flowers and, of course, snow. The nation has hundreds of serious mountain climbing groups, so trails exist over the three ranges, but the paths across the lower foothills lure thousands of ordinary citizens during the hot summer months. The centuries-old post towns of Nakasendo (page 98) are sprinkled along ancient paths traversing the steep terrain, a reminder of the once rugged lifestyles of the inhabitants of these steep valleys. Old inns that served as way stations for travelers now serve the modern hiker who emerges from the surrounding woodlands in search of a little sustenance. Kamikochi (page 98) is a 1,500-meter (4,900-foot) highland national park with nature trails and a campground with access to higher peaks. The narrow roads and deep winter snows close the area between mid-November and the end of March, but when open, the pristine air and alpine setting are absolutely addictive.
Better still, try to schedule at least a week exploring other parts of the country, starting with a few days in the former capital of Kyoto (page 47), the cultural yin to Tokyo’s modern yang. The city’s 17 World Heritage Sites include the decadently gilded temple of Kinkaku-ji (page 17) and the contrasting simplicity of Ryoan-ji Temple’s dry landscape garden (page 50). Kyoto also makes a good base for exploring other important sites in the Kansai region, for example, a day trip to the ancient temples of Nara (page 54), Japan’s capital before Kyoto, or Osaka (page 56), Japan’s second largest city. Looking farther afield, you could use Kyoto as a staging post en route to the atmospheric Mount Koya (page 23), home to some 120 monasteries of the Shingon sect of Buddhism.
If you still have time, extend your trip to Shikoku (page 62) for two or three days to visit the splendid Dogo hot springs, Matsuyama Castle and artistic Naoshima Island’s stunning array of contemporary art galleries and outdoor art installations (page 21). From Shikoku, it’s an easy trip to Hiroshima (page 61) for the Peace Memorial Park (page 22)–the moving memorial at the site of the first nuclear attack–and the famous floating torii, or shrine gate, at Itsukushima Shrine. From there, move on to Kyushu (page 65) for a soak in the famed Beppu hot springs, and continue on to the southern island of Yakushima (page 24), with its ancient towering cedars.
The extreme north and south of Japan are equally worthwhile. Hokkaido (page 69), the large northern island shaped by its harsh winters, is not surprisingly home to Japan’s premier ski slopes, in Niseko (page 25), where perfect powder snow attracts skiers from around the world. If you go, make sure to spend a night in Sapporo (page 67), Hokkaido’s main city, to indulge in its wonderfully hearty cuisine and laid-back vibe. At the opposite end of the archipelago, in the far south, Okinawa (page 71) is the perfect place to end your trip, unwinding on its pristine beaches or diving amid its beautiful coral reefs.
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
In the front of the book, we give you a brief overview of Japan, including its geography, climate, people, language, religion and government. Chapter 1 covers Japan’s “Don’t Miss” Sights, detailing the top 18 places to visit and things to do, from staying at a temple on sacred Mount Koya to exploring the contemporary art galleries of Naoshima Island to skiing the perfect powder snow in Niseko on the northern island of Hokkaido.
In Chapter 2, we take a more detailed look at the varied regions and major cities that make up Japan, starting with the ultramodern, unerringly traditional and at times quirky faces of the capital Tokyo and ending up on the subtropical islands of Okinawa in the far south. In between, we explore several not-to-miss areas within day-trip range of Tokyo, including the ancient shrines and temples of Kamakura and the popular weekend retreat of Hakone, before heading west to the Japan Sea coast and the city of Kanazawa. The isolation of the mountains that one crosses between Tokyo and the Japan Sea Coast are home to a number of very picturesque towns. We then move on to Kyoto, the former capital and for many the cultural and spiritual heart of Japan. We also delve into Osaka, Japan’s vibrant second city, and then the major islands