of the gold mines of Sado Island and put to good use arming one of Japan’s most powerful clans. Pre-modern cities were built around her temples, shrines, ports and castles. Kanazawa (page 42) is one of Japan’s best examples of a castle town with its scattering of warrior homes and the artisans who provided objects of beauty for its residents.
A new Shinkansen train barrels into Kanazawa Station from Tokyo in two and a half hours, bringing an infusion of tourists and their appetites. The station and its massive glass and steel dome displays a unique hand-crafted wooden gate that resembles a traditional hand drum.
Located on a slight rise in the center of the city, Kanazawa Castle offers a view of Lord Maeda’s domain and the ridge of mountains that foiled any attack upon his well-armed and faithful warriors. The castle walls are a sparkling white, matching the snowy peaks in the distance a good five months of the year.
Lord Maeda’s wealth came not only from its gold reserves but also from shipping. The port provided the townspeople with many of the refined goods that came from Kyoto, carrying back the sea products that abound in these waters.
The garden that adjoins Kanazawa Castle is ranked as one of the top three gardens of Japan. Opened to the public in 1874, Kenroku-en is expansive and beautifully maintained, with glorious ponds and some of the most pampered pine trees one will find anywhere. The seasonal floral display is well depicted on the information board inside.
Speaking of the rich bounty of seafood lavished upon its citizens, Kanazawa’s Omi-cho market is a kaleidoscope of color, aromas and tastes, capable of pleasing everyone who wishes to sample the delicacies on display in its busy shops.
Kanazawa Castle Park Open 9 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. year round. Getting There A 5-minute walk from the Kenrokuen bus stop or a 15-minute bus ride from Kanazawa JR Station. Contact www.pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/kanazawajou/ Admission Fee ¥310; children ¥100; over 65 years of age free. Kenroku-en Park Open 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Getting There Take the Loop Line bus from Kanazawa Station. Contact pref.ishikawa.jp/siro-niwa/Kenroku-en/index.html/ Admission Fee ¥310
9 Kinkaku-ji Temple, Kyoto
The quintessential “Golden Pavilion” of historic Kyoto
Few sights in Japan are as iconic as the golden reflection of Kinkaku-ji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion) shimmering on the still waters of Kyoko-chi (Mirror Pond) that heightens its beauty.
The pure gold leaf coating the top two floors of the three-story building is what sends the hordes of visitors to Kinkaku-ji into a photographic frenzy, but pause a while to study the structure and you notice that there is far more to Kinkaku-ji than its gilding. Each floor is in a different but complementary architectural style. The first is in the shinden-zukuri style common to Heian (11th-century) imperial aristocracy; the second in the style of warrior aristocrats, or buke-zukuri; and the third in traditional Chinese cha’an style.
As stunning a sight as Kinkaku-ji is, many visitors are surprised to learn that the temple building is actually a modern reconstruction. The original, built in 1397 as part of a retirement villa for shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu and then converted into a Zen temple upon his death, was burned to the ground by a young monk (whose possible motives and internal strife were the subject of Yukio Mishima’s 1956 novel, Temple of the Golden Pavilion) in 1950. By 1955 it had been rebuilt except for the gilding, which was eventually restored in 1987.
Kinkaku-ji’s rise from the ashes was crowned in 1994 when the temple was deservedly granted World Heritage status along with 16 other sites in Kyoto. The fire-loving monk didn’t enjoy a similarly happy end. As Kinkaku-ji burned around him, he botched an attempt to commit suicide and was sentenced to seven years in jail. He died of tuberculosis in 1956 shortly after his early release for medical reasons.
Opening Times Daily from 9 a.m to 5 p.m. Getting There From Kyoto Station take bus number 101 or 205 to the Kinkaku-ji Michi bus stop or take bus number 59 or 12 to the Kinkaku-ji Mae bus stop. Contact Kinkaku-ji Temple: shokoku-ji.jp Admission Fee ¥400
10 Kyoto’s Kiyomizu Temple
Refined beauty in perfect harmony with its surroundings
Few places in Kyoto are as pretty or better illustrate the deeply entwined relationship between Japanese culture and nature than Kiyomizu Temple. By day, the temple’s main hall, the Hondo, is set against a rich natural backdrop that changes with each season: pink hues of cherry blossom in spring, lush greens in summer, earthy reds and yellows in autumn, and the occasional white tint on naked branches in winter. By night, when many of the temple’s buildings are illuminated and lanterns accent the shop-lined Chawan-zaka slope that leads visitors up toward the complex, Kiyomizu’s three-storied pagoda bathes the area in a soft orange glow. Whenever you visit, it’s captivatingly beautiful.
Built on a rock face that overlooks a small valley, the Hondo is Kiyomizu’s star attraction, its protruding wooden veranda one of the classic images of Kyoto. It used to be said that anyone who leapt from the overhanging veranda and survived the 13-meter (43-foot) fall unscathed would have his or her dreams answered; those who died would be rewarded by sainthood. No doubt seen as a win–win situation by some, jumping became such a problem during the Edo era that in 1872 the government outlawed the act.
A far nicer tradition awaits beyond the Hondo, at Jishu Jinja, a shrine partially dedicated to a deity of love and a good marriage. In front of the shrine are two “love stones” set 6 meters (20 feet) apart. It is said that if you can walk between the two stones with your eyes closed, you will one day find true love (some interpretations say you may already have found it). Stray from the path, however, and the romantic news is not so good–but at least you’ll have the glorious sight of Kiyomizu to console you.
The grounds of the temple lead to a fountain, Otowa-no-taki, that allows visitors a taste of its special therapuetic spring waters. Long-handled dippers allow one to catch a ladle full. The grounds go downhill from here, into a forested area and eventually to Kyoto’s largest cemetery, Toribeno, with 90,000 graves. The living and departed citizens still maintain a spectacular view of the ancient city.
Opening Times Main hall is open daily from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Getting There Head to either the Kiyomizu-michi or Gojo-zaka bus stop served by buses 100, 202, 206 or 207 from Kyoto Station. Contact Kiyomizu Temple: kiyomizudera.or.jp Admission Fee Main hall ¥300.
11 Horyu-ji Temple, Nara
The world’s oldest wooden building, founded in 607
To choose just one of Nara’s many ancient temples for special attention is a hard task. One could opt for Todai-ji Temple (todaiji.or.jp), a World Heritage Site that houses a 15-meter (49-foot)-high bronze statue of Buddha in one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. Or there is Kofuku-ji Temple (kohfukuji.com) and its 600-year-old five-story pagoda, the original of which was moved here from Kyoto, 35 km (19 miles) to the north, in the 8th century.
But in the