Paul Ames

Frommer's Portugal


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       Viseu

       Guarda

       13porto & the douro

       Porto

       Amarante

       Lamego

       Peso da Régua

       14the minho & trás-os-montes

       Guimarães

       Braga

       Barcelos

       Viano Do Castelo

       Chaves

       Bragança

       15madeira & the azores

       Madeira

       The Azores

       16planning your trip

       Index

       Map List

       About the Author

      A Look at portugal

      Portugal is a mystery to most would-be travelers. It's far harder to pin down its public persona than other Western nations. Say the word “Italy” and a slew of images—pasta, hand gestures, suave clothing, and more—pop to mind. The same with “France,” “Germany,” or the “United States.” But to understand Portugal, one must travel there. And listen to the nation’s plaintive fado music, gorge on grilled sardines, and wander over rocky cliffs, through cutting-edge contemporary museums, winding cobblestoned alleys, and churches glittering with colonial-era gold. This book tells you how to do all of that and much more. In the following pages are just a few of the spectacular sights you’ll see.

      Go . . . and be dazzled.

      – Pauline Frommer

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      The colorful, eclectic architecture of the Palácio Nacional da Pena, the most recognizable building in Sintra (p. 162).

      LISBON

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      Lisbon is set on seven hills, meaning there’s a gobsmacking view around most every corner. Pictured is the atmospheric Alfama district, which has some of the oldest buildings in the city (built on stronger stone, it wasn’t as badly damaged as other neighborhoods during the 1755 earthquake).

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      A foodie mecca, Lisbon has a number of outdoor cafes, though few climb the hills as adeptly as this one does.

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      The Tram 28 line (p. 105), the most famous of Lisbon's iconic yellow trams, runs through Alfama, Baixa, Chiado, and other historic districts.

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      Climb the Arco da Rua Augusta triumphal arch for 360-degree views over the Baixa district (see p. 122).

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      Inaugurated in 1902, the imposing Elevador de Santa Justa towers over the Baixa and carries pedestrians up the Largo do Carmo in the Chiado.

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      Portugal’s most distinctive music is fado, the urban blues of Lisbon, which comes close to encapsulating the nation’s soul.

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      A UNESCO World Heritage Site, 16th-century Jerónimos Monastery is the city’s most impressive building (p. 108).

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      The 1880s Mercado da Ribeira/Time Out Market (p. 105) is a historic produce, meat, and seafood market with a gourmet food hall.

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      The MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology), which opened in late 2016, has transformed the cityscape with its sail-like roof jutting out over the river (p. 107).

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      The village of Óbidos (p. 193) is so pretty King Afonso II gave it as a wedding gift to his queen. It’s a short day-trip from Lisbon.

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      Sintra Palace (p. 164) rests on a rocky outcrop surrounded by stunning gardens and can be seen for miles around.

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      A short distance from downtown Cascais, the Boca do Inferno, or Mouth of Hell (p. 150) is a natural rock cavern carved by the waves.

      NORTHERN PORTUGAL

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      Known as the “River of Gold,” the Douro wends its way from north-central Spain to Porto. In Portugal, its often-steep banks are terraced with the vineyards that produce the area’s famous fortified wine.

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      Espigueiros, raised stone tomblike structures that are actually grain stores, are found near Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês (p. 396).

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