Paul Ames

Frommer's Portugal


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in 1906, Livraria Lello in Porto is regarded as one of the world's most beautiful bookstores (p. 341).

      Northern Portugal

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      With a permanent collection of more than 4,000 works by Portuguese and international artists, Serralves (p. 343) is one of Portugal's most important art museums.

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      A view of the colorful Ribeira neighborhood (p. 336). It has clung to this hillside since the Middle Ages.

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      The grand chambers of Porto's Palácio da Bolsa (p. 340), the former Stock Exchange, borrow decorative elements from ancient Rome, Renaissance Italy, and the court of Versailles.

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      The city’s largely Romanesque Sé (Cathedral, p. 340) was begun in the 12th century.

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      Pop by for a cimbalino (shot of espresso) at the 1920s-era Café Majestic (see p. 342).

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      The Arco da Porta Nova (p. 391), a baroque triumphal arch, makes up part of the city walls of Braga.

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      You can’t say you’ve been to Porto until you’ve tippled your way through a port tasting (see p. 339).

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      Guimarães’ castle (p. 382), site of an important siege, is considered the birthplace of the nation.

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      Guimarães’ Largo de Oliveira (Olive Tree Square, p. 383) is rich in history…and taverns. It’s the place to be in the evenings.

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      A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the hilltop pilgrimage site of Santuário Bom Jesús do Monte is Braga’s best-known landmark (p. 391).

      SOUTHERN PORTUGAL

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      Near Lagos (p. 249), the coast is a wonderland of hidden lagoons, jutting rocks, and grottoes.

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      A falconer participates in a medieval festival in Silves.

      Southern Portugal

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      From the heady heights of Marvão Castle (p. 290) visitors feel like they can see all of Portugal, and a good swatch of Spain, too.

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      Grilled sardines are a staple of Portuguese cuisine, their aroma wafting through old towns and along seaside promenades.

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      A pretty square in Lagos (p. 249). Today known for its beaches and relaxed vibe, its history is darker—as the place where the Atlantic slave trade began in the 1400s.

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      Stairs lead down to Praia do Camilo (p. 252), one in a series of stunning beaches south of Lagos.

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      The Algar de Benagil sea cave (p. 235), a natural sandstone formation near Portimão, can be explored via a boat tour or stand-up paddleboard.

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      Established in 1290, University of Coimbra (p. 299) is one of the oldest universities in the world. It dominates the Alta, or upper town of Coimbra.

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      Dramatically sited Praia de Carvoeiro beach is the focal point of Carvoeiro (p. 235), a resort town of the Algarve.

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      Throughout Portugal, you’ll see important works from the many civilizations that once ruled this land. Pictured is a still-standing Roman-era bridge in Tavira.

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      The Castelo dos Mouros (p. 241) in Silves was the center of the Moorish empire until the Reconquista. All that’s left are ruins.

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      Sagres (p. 255) was once considered the edge of the world. Hike to the lighthouse for a view of the vast Atlantic, and you’ll understand why.

      1

      The Best of Portugal

      Europe’s West Coast is suddenly very fashionable. Portugal’s 1,000 miles of shore and California-style climate are attracting travelers in record numbers. The buzz is justified. Beyond the glorious beaches, this ancient nation is crammed with heritage ranging from Stone Age graffiti to villages clustered beneath medieval castles and forests filled with romantic palaces. Its lifestyle is laidback; its food and wine fabulous. Five hundred years ago, Portuguese explorers opened up the world; now it’s time to discover this little land of many wonders.

      Mainland Europe’s westernmost nation has few rivals as a land where climate, landscape, and history combine so effectively to satisfy travelers’ wish lists. Atlantic breezes waft over beaches for every taste, from sheltered, family-friendly coves to strands of endless sand offering the continent’s best surf. The capital Lisbon and second city Porto are among Europe’s hippest cities, where the plaintive songs of traditional fado music or the guitars of student troubadours echo down medieval alleys that lead to waterfront nightclubs throbbing