rose-crested cockatoo which is a symbol of Alderbaran, a binary star in Constellation Taurus. He played a major role in the legend of the Seven Sisters. Variations of this story occur throughout Australia, but it mainly tells the tale of beautiful young women chased by lustful men on earth and into the sky back to Constellation Pleiades, their home.
Rob was always surprised by the unimaginable scale of these stories. How did the old Aboriginal people know so much about the Sky-World? He discovered that some legends contained astronomical mysteries, and he was very keen to discuss them with traditional men. And yet, the knowledge he may gain would not be complete because he was a whitefella from a different culture and could never find out everything.
Rob also had questions about the intriguing tjurunga he examined in the Royal Albert Memorial Museum in Exeter, England. He definitely wanted to talk about them, but there was no guarantee anyone would discuss ‘sacred business’ with a stranger. Even so, Rob was quietly confident he would learn a lot because he was sincere and respectful. He was not trying to exploit Aboriginal people, but wanted to form friendly associations which he sensed would deepen throughout his trip.
* * *
After three hours of flying through endless blue skies and hovering white clouds, Rob caught his first glimpse of Uluru sitting majestically alone on the flat landscape. The huge, mystical monolith captivated him and he was compelled to stare, drawn in by unseen energies. These were special moments for Rob because Uluru was the spirit of his country, his Australia. He had not been back for a decade, yet when he travelled and experienced different cultures, this sacred, awe-inspiring site was ever-present in his heart. Known locally as “The Rock,” ancient Uluru was his old friend, and its magnetic attraction had released him to take other journeys, until today. But unfortunately he could only make a brief stopover, so an in-depth encounter would have to wait.
As the Qantas jet came in to land at Ayers Rock Airport unexpected sprinkles of rain streaked across its small passenger windows, and Rob strained his eyes and neck to keep Uluru in sight. Every drop of rain was welcome in this arid country, and the light sun shower continued as he and other passengers walked briskly across the tarmac and into the terminal. They only had time for a quick look around because in about twenty minutes they would board their connecting flight to Alice Springs.
Rob always knew he would return to Central Australia. The call of its unique landscape and timeless spirituality resonated strongly within wherever he lived in the world. Now, today, he really was back. Seeing Uluru again confirmed his return. Rob was home. His feelings were as simple and as comfortable as that.
The few spots of rain that had fallen out of nothing disappeared before Rob and the others walked out to board their flight. While waiting in the terminal he told several passengers that Alice Springs was about 450kms away by road, and they were very surprised. Most said they were pleased to be flying, although Rob assured them the drive was a fascinating close-up experience of the Outback. But today, like them, he just wanted to get there.
Rob had flown from the Big Apple, New York City, to the Big Rock, Central Australia, and in a few minutes would take-off on the last leg of his journey, a short flight of fifty minutes.
* * *
Alice Springs is an oasis of the Outback with an indefinable mystique that attracts people from all over the world. Bold geological forms and the rich, changeable colours of Dreamtime landscapes entice visitors to explore. Many locals lead the way by jumping into their 4WDs and going ‘out bush’ on camping trips, the wide land and big sky engendering a sense of freedom and adventure.
A fresh water spring in the famously dry Todd River (Lhere Mparntwe) gave rise to the European settlement called Stuart until 1933 when the name was changed to Alice Springs. The town sits in the middle of arid country yet is surprisingly abundant with trees, sports fields and recreational parks. Surrounded by large pastoral properties, Aboriginal communities on vast traditional lands, and immense orange-red country alive with stories, the Alice is the heart of a continent.
In local Aranda language it is Mparntwe or Mbantua meaning “meeting place” which it has been for thousands of years. And this tradition is ongoing because tracks of different kinds and from many different places still converge there today.
* * *
Rob’s flight was on descent and only minutes away from the town’s airport when he saw the magnificent MacDonnell Ranges (Tyurretye), unmistakable backbone of geologically ancient Central Australia. In traditional Aranda lore these ranges were created by three Caterpillar Ancestors, and this Aboriginal Dreaming and the Wild Dog Dreaming are perennial signatures of Alice Springs, as well as its oldest stories.
Flying in on wings of Winter sunshine, bright afternoon light created such clarity that the rock faces of the MacDonnells seemed touchable from Rob’s seat. He could almost taste the invigorating fresh air outside. As feelings of ‘coming home’ bubbled up inside, Rob was filled with nostalgia. He did not fully understand these feelings, but his longing for this special region was only matched by his anticipation about the coming days.
3
Along Todd Mall Aboriginal Art galleries overflow with bright, multi-coloured dot-style paintings. They represent the world’s latest art movement which only began in the 1970s, and first-time visitors stare at the exquisite designs on canvas and ponder their meanings. Few know that these captivating artworks symbolically depict Central Australian landscapes they have flown over or driven through. Or that others tell personal stories or Dreamings of traditional custodians, men and women they may walk past in the street.
Rob visited five galleries in the Mall before leaving its southern end and crossing Gregory Terrace. Continuing on Todd Street for almost a block he passed Desert Oak Tours, Outback Camping Safaris and Arunta Art Gallery & Book Shop, before discovering the Aboriginal Red Ochre Gallery. Displayed on its front brick wall was a sign advertising daily cultural tours and didgeridoo lessons.
“Hello there...” Rob offered in a friendly manner as he walked in.
Inside the stone-floored gallery, an older Aboriginal man was showing paintings to a young woman at the tile-topped counter.
“Morning, howya going,” the manager replied, as both she and the artist greeted him with a smile and nod of the head.
The Aboriginal artist was talking about his works and they caught Rob’s eye. The major local contemporary style was dot painting, but these were different. They were landscapes of Central Australia, true-to-life watercolours with ghost gums, distant purple hills and rugged rocky outcrops, evoking the Outback perfectly. Rob was familiar with this classic style because he owned several similar paintings, so he walked closer and commented.
“I love those colours, that clarity of light, the aura around the gum trees. They’re beautiful. I feel at home just looking at them.”
Rob felt comfortable in saying this to the Aboriginal artist and the older man turned to him and warmly acknowledged the compliment.
“Thanks. Thanks brother. I’m happy you’ve come.”
Rob sensed something deeper about the greeting and also responded warmly.
“My name’s Rob, I hope we can talk about your paintings while I’m in town.”
“I’m Lindsay, but most call me ‘Uncle’ or ‘the Elder.’ Have you come far?”
“Yeah, from New York, but I’m Aussie.”
“Good. Welcome. Let’s catch up after I finish.”
As well as dark jeans, leather riding boots and a long-sleeved flannelette shirt, patterned with small red and blue squares, the artist wore a fawn-coloured Akubra hat. The hand-made band was decorated with very small painted dots, and a solid silver heart about the size of a thumb nail was attached to its left side. Like any good hat, it became the man, and because of contrast, his grey sideburns looked even more distinguished.
The Elder and manager continued their discussion while Rob started to explore the Gallery, but after only fifteen