grass in the shade of a tall, white-trunked eucalyptus tree. Taking off his hat and placing it on the ground, the Elder said...
“Welcome to Mparntwe or Mbantua, the Arrernte or Aranda name for Alice Springs. My full name’s Lindsay Williams and I was born in Western Aranda country. Do you know Albert Namatjira? He was a Western Aranda man.”
“Yeah, of course,” Rob smiled confidently. “The first Aboriginal person to paint Outback landscapes with watercolours back in the 1930s, 40s and 50s.”
“Uncle Albert was gifted,” the Elder added. “He showed city people our country’s real heart and spirit for the first time. And even met the Queen.”
“Yeah, he was the best.” Rob continued. “Isn’t there a permanent exhibition of his paintings in town?”
“It’s up at Araluen. Try and see it if you can.”
“I will for sure,” Rob confirmed, then asked, “What about your art?”
“I’ve been doing watercolours on and off for forty years. Started by myself with an uncle’s help, but now there’s a mob of us who love the style and want to keep the tradition going. Like Albert I’m from out near Hermannsburg, the old Lutheran Church Mission. We call it Ntaria and it’s about 125kms west on a good bitumen road. Do you know that country?”
“Yeah, in a way. Central Australia always feels familiar,” Rob replied.
“Albert’s also honoured by Namatjira Drive. It branches off Larapinta Drive heading west and provides access to the superb gorges of the West Macs. You’d love it.”
“Maybe I can get out there,” Rob said, adding: “Do you do other work?”
“I’m a senior lecturer at the Faculty of Aboriginal Development, or FAD, so I live in town these days. It’s connected to the Northern Territory University in Darwin. Have you heard of it?”
“No, but it sounds interesting,” Rob replied.
“I’ve got to get back to the office soon, but we must talk again while you’re in town. I can meet late tomorrow afternoon on Anzac Hill (Atnelkentyarliweke) – there’s a great view of country in all directions.”
“I’d love to,” Rob said. “But I’ll have to say ‘Anzac Hill’ because your name’s too hard!”
“I know what you mean. Our languages are very difficult. I’m an old timer and I still prefer the spelling Aranda because people can pronounce it when they see it.”
“Okay, I’ll do the same. And thanks so much for the invite. I’ll be there.”
They got to their feet and shook hands, and Rob walked away quickly to the Heart of Australia Resort across a road bridge over the Todd River, shaking his head happily. He knew instinctively that Lindsay from Western Aranda country was the Aboriginal elder he’d been hoping to find for years. And suddenly it had happened.
The meeting was inspiring for the Elder too. As he walked steadily back to his faculty office he acknowledged within that Rob had come at precisely the right time. With insight as clear as the blue skies of his watercolours he knew Rob would gain important knowledge and be guided on a journey of discovery.
* * *
Earlier that morning at the Resort Rob picked up a message from Dr Hugo Ableford, leader of the Rock Art group, expressing his wish to discuss the expedition. The plan was to meet at a restaurant in an arcade off Todd Mall, so Rob wrote a quick note saying “See you there” and left it at Reception. Both men were looking forward to catching up in person because they had not seen each other since Rob flew to London three years earlier.
“Great to see you. How’s New York?” Hugo asked, raising his eyebrows in anticipation as they warmly shook hands.
“Wonderful. So much energy in one corner of the planet. Who knows how it all keeps going.” Rob replied. “Now I’m back, I’d much rather be here. The Centre does something for me.” He added with understatement.
The two men had met for lunch at The Desert Oak which offered more international cuisine than local bush tucker, but all was homemade and delicious. Rob ordered Thai fish cakes, rice balls with cheese in the middle and green salad, while Hugo selected a wholesome chicken and vegetable soup served with hot multi-grain bread rolls and butter.
They took it in turns to catch up with each other’s activities of the past few years, and after finishing their tasty food, Hugo told Rob the Rock Art group’s plans.
“In the morning we’re going out on a good dirt road to the Ewaninga site. Do you know it? There’s hundreds of well-preserved petroglyphs in a protected area, and we’ll be back by one or two o’clock. There’s ten in the group and most want to go shopping and have a look around town. You’re welcome to come.”
“I’d like to, I’ve never been there.” Rob said.
“Then in two and a half days we’re off. As you know, it’s to Yuendumu first up the Tanami Track, on to Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing, then across to Broome. After the old pearling town we take on the Gibb River Road and eventually reach Kununurra and Timber Creek. Then we’ll head south into the VRD. Our co-leader actually rediscovered a lot of the art, and we’ll be the first group to see it.”
“That’s epic,” Rob interrupted. “How many people get that opportunity. I know it’s taken a lot of organising.”
“A couple of years Rob, so it’s very good that you were able to come back,” Hugo said genuinely. “You got the last seat, too!”
“Thanks to you. Your phone call really got me going. You must’ve known I’ve been talking to the Outback stars!” Rob winked and continued. “The Outback’s always felt close since I first came through in the ‘90s. I don’t think I need the big cities now. Oh, and I met an Aboriginal artist, we’re meeting tomorrow afternoon. I’ll tell you about it later.”
They finished their coffee, agreed to ‘go dutch’ with the bill for old time’s sake, then as they stood up Hugo added...
“I’m so pleased you’ve made it, and you’re looking well too. We’re all in the same Resort, so that makes it easy. Let’s talk tomorrow, but if you’re coming to Ewaninga we’re meeting for breakfast at eight in the dining room and departing about nine.”
“Sounds good. It’s fantastic to be here,” Rob smiled, shaking Hugo’s hand. “Seeya later.” He was so happy to link up with Hugo and the Rock Art group after so much anticipation and his long flight.
* * *
Rob planned to watch sunset from a rocky hill near the Resort, but as the afternoon unfolded, the western sky turned dark blue. Threatening storm clouds built up and rapidly approached Alice Springs. Jagged shafts of bolt lightning struck the countryside and thunder rumbled loud and long. This type of storm usually occurred in Summer so its abrupt arrival on a Winter’s day was surprising. Suddenly an unusual thought popped into Rob’s mind. Could its spectacular show be a sign from the Universe that meeting the Elder was an auspicious event? Rob had read enough about traditional Aboriginal life to know that unexplained things happened, but he was not sure if this was one of them.
* * *
On the following morning Hugo, Rob and the group drove to Ewaninga Conservation Reserve on a rusty red dirt road, firm and dust-free after the previous night’s heavy showers. At the site they found hundreds of symbols pecked into large slabs of tan-brown sandstone, and the marked walking track presented opportunities for close-up viewing and photography. The atmosphere was still, there was no one else around and everything seemed straight forward until Hugo gestured to the group to come close, saying precisely and without introduction.
“This site embodies a mystery!”
Everyone standing around him eagerly focused on his next words.
“Even though Ewaninga’s been studied for years, the petroglyphs