Romeo Brodmann

Sauces in French Cuisine


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Bring to boiling point and allow to simmer for 15 minutes. Skim.

      9. Add white wine and allow to simmer for another 30 minutes. Frequently skim.

      10. At the end, pass Fond de Poisson Blanc carefully through cheesecloth.

      Fumet de Poisson (Concentrated White Fish Stock)

      Ingredients for 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups)

      400 g (14 oz) fish bones (only seafish – turbot, sole, whiting)

      50 g (2 oz) shallots, chopped

      100 g (3 1/2 oz) white vegetables: white part of leek, onions, button mushrooms, parsley roots, parsley stalks, celeriac

      50 g (2 oz) butter

      1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups) Fond de Poisson Blanc

      100 ml (3 1/2 fl oz or 1/2 U.S. cups) white wine

      spices: 5 peppercorns

      Preparation

      Cut vegetables into thumb size pieces, sweat shallots in butter, but do not colour. Add the roughly cut fish bones and sweat everything together. Top up with Fond de Poisson. Slowly and very carefully bring to boiling point and skim thoroughly. Add white wine and peppercorns and continue to cook just under the boiling point for another 30 minutes (do not boil). Remove from heat and let stand for another 15 minutes. Thoroughly pass through a cheesecloth.

      Ingredients for 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups)

      2 l (3 1/2 pt or 9 U.S. cups) red wine, strong of dark colour

      600 g (21 oz ) fish bones (of turbot, sole or whiting)

      100 g (3 1/2 oz) white vegetables: white part of leek, onions, button mushrooms

      spices: salt, 2 g (1/2 tsp) / l,5 peppercorns, 1 bay leaf, parsley stalks, thyme, possibly garlic

      Preparation

      Pour 2 l (3 1/2 pt or 9 U.S. cups) of red wine in a pan, bring to the boil and reduce to approx. 1.1 l (2 pt), let cool.

      Cut vegetables into thumb size pieces, place in pan together with spices, place fish bones on top. Cover with the 1.1 l (2 pt) reduction of red wine, add salt, slowly and very carefully bring to boiling point, skim thoroughly. Gently cook just under the boiling point for approx. 30 minutes (do not boil).

      Remove from heat and let stand for another 15 minutes.

      Drain through a coarse sieve, then again through a very fine tea strainer.

      Note

      Fish bones of sole, lemon sole and red mullet. Available at quality fishmongers or at speciality departments. If not readily available, sacrifice one whole fish and cut into pieces. Respect the times indicated for boiling and do not exceed them. Excessive cooking might result in undesired flavours reminiscent of fish glue.

      Fish stock with red wine is not directly used in the production of basic sauces and its variations, it rather a) serves as the base for the preparation of fish matelote or b) develops while preparing it. Fond de Poisson Rouge is mentioned here for the sake of completeness.

      Glaces are stocks concentrated in their consistency and flavours by reducing them. They are used to increase and perfect the flavour during the preparation of sauces. The reduction process also condenses the gelatinous substances, which is why glazes that have cooled down are rather solid in texture.

      – Reduction of Fond de Veau Brun = Glace de Viande / Meat Glaze

      – Reduction of Fond de Gibier = Glace de Gibier / Game Glaze

      – Reduction of Fond de Veau Blanc = Glace de Viande Blonde / Blonde Meat Glaze

      – Reduction of Fond de Volaille = Glace de Volaille / Poultry Glaze

      – Reduction of Fond de Poisson (Fumet) = Glace de Poisson / Fish Glaze

      Choose very ripe tomatoes. Wash, cut in half, remove peduncle. Briefly mix in a food processor. Place colander in sink and line with cheesecloth. Add mixed tomatoes. Lift cloth at all four edges and wring until the first juice is squeezed out. Cover tomatoes with cloth and weight down. Set aside in refrigerator overnight. Reduce tomato juice thus won until it is syrupy. Possibly pass through a cheesecloth one more time.

      Essence de Tomate

      The preparation of Essence de Tomate is more demanding, yet the resulting flavour is also more sophisticated. It is particularly suitable as an addition to delicate sauces to improve their taste.

      1. Wash very ripe tomatoes and remove peduncle.

      2. Cut tomatoes into small pieces.

      3. Place in a food processor.

      4. Briefly mix and puree tomatoes.

      5. Pass through cheesecloth.

      6. Thoroughly squeeze once. Reserve juice.

      7. Squeeze out remaining mass using a glass bowl. You may also put a weight on top and set aside in refrigerator over night.

      8. Pour liquid thus won into a pan.

      9. Season the juice with a little bit of sugar and salt.

      10. Reduce tomato juice until it is syrupy. Season to taste with basil.

      11. Strain through cheesecloth again and squeeze thoroughly.

      12. The remaining substance is concentrated Essence de Tomate.

      1. Wash very ripe tomatoes and remove peduncle.

      2. Cut tomatoes into small pieces.

      3. Place in a food processor.

      4. Briefly mix and puree tomatoes.

      5. Pass through cheesecloth.

      6. Thoroughly squeeze once. Reserve juice.

      7. Squeeze out remaining mass using a glass bowl. You may also put a weight on top and set aside in refrigerator over night.

      8. Pour liquid thus won into a pan.

      9. Season the juice with a little bit of sugar and salt.

      10. Reduce tomato juice until it is syrupy. Season to taste with basil.

      11. Strain through cheesecloth again and squeeze thoroughly.