Romeo Brodmann

Sauces in French Cuisine


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roasted veal bones from cookware, drain off excess fat.

      5. Place vegetables in cookware and roast gently.

      6. Add tomato puree and roast with other ingredients. Do not burn.

      7. Add roasted bones.

      8. Deglaze and top up with water.

      9. Reduce until everything begins to slightly roast again. Repeat once or twice.

      10. Once everything has reduced for the third time, place bones in suitable pot.

      11. Dissolve juices at the bottom of the pan with water and add to bones.

      12. Top up with broth and white wine.

      13. Bring to the boil and gently boil for 1.5 to 2 hours. Skim and degrease frequently.

      14. Add spices half an hour before the end of the cooking time.

      15. Pass through a coarse sieve.

      16. Drain off and press bones.

      17. Pour through cheesecloth.

      18. Squeeze thoroughly.

      Fond de Gibier Brun (Game Stock)

      Ingredients for 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups)

      20 ml (3/4 fl oz or 1/10 U.S. cups) oil (sunflower or peanut oil)

      700 g (1 lb 8 2/3 oz) trimmings and bones of game, chopped into thumb size pieces

      100 g (3 1/2 oz) calf’s feet, chopped into thumb size pieces

      200 g (7 oz) vegetables: carrots, onions (no leek, would turn bitter during roasting)

      30 g (1 oz) tomato puree

      1.5 l (2 5/8 pt or 6 1/2 U.S. cups) water (2 to 3 times > 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups))

      600 ml (1 pt or 2 5/8 U.S. cups) white wine

      1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups) water or Fond Brun

      spices: salt, 1 bay leaf, 5 juniper berries, 5 peppercorns, bouquet garni (1 sprig of sage and thyme and parsley stalks)

      Preparation

      Roasting Variant 1: Mix trimmings / bones of game and calf’s feet with the oil in a frying pan (iron or cast iron pans are best suited, but coated pans also work) and roast slowly and carefully for 1 to 1.5 hours. Turn occasionally. Place bones in a bowl. Slowly and gently roast vegetables for approx. 30 minutes in the same pan. Add tomato puree and roast together for 10 minutes.

      Roasting Variant 2: Mix trimmings / bones of game and calf’s feet with the oil, place in (coated or uncoated) metal roasting pan. Place on grid in heated oven (200 °Celsius), medium height. Roast for 1.5 to 2 hours, turn occasionally. Keep an eye on temperature, reduce heat if necessary. Add vegetables, continue to roast for 30 minutes. Add tomato puree, continue to roast for 15 minutes.

      According to variant 1, put everything back into frying pan, deglaze with 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups) of water.

      According to variant 2, deglaze with 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups) of water.

      For both variants, boil down water and reduce until everything begins to slightly roast again (reduce to a glaze), then add another 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups) of water. Repeat once or twice.

      Once everything has reduced for the second or third time, transfer to a suitable pot. Rinse cookware or frying pan with a little water and add to bones.

      Top up with white wine and 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups) of water. Bring to the boil and frequently skim and degrease. Add spices after one hour.

      Gently boil for 1 to 2 hour.

      Pass through a coarse sieve, pressing gently. Then strain through a cheesecloth. Season to taste with salt.

      Note

      Trimmings and bones of furred game: roe deer, deer, wild boar, hare.

      Trimmings and bones of game birds: pheasant, partridge etc. Depending on use, only process one variety.

      Seasoning with salt: Do not season with salt according to taste and use until the stock has been strained through the cheesecloth.

      Slowly roast over low heat, never at excessive heat. Do not burn. Otherwise the stock would develop unpleasant bitter substances and undesirable black pigments. Roasting is a time consuming and continuous process.

      You may also replace the entire liquid with red wine, which will give the stock a slightly different flavour and a stronger colour. Disadvantage: There is a risk that the stock will turn greyish when mixed with cream and / or white sauce (e.g. for Sauce à la Crème).

      Ingredients for 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups)

      600 g (21 oz ) veal bones of breastbone or veal trimmings

      100 g (3 1/2 oz) calf’s feet

      1.4 l (2 1/2 pt or 6 U.S. cups) water

      100 g (3 1/2 oz) vegetables: carrots, white part of leek, celeriac, onions

      spices: salt, 1 bay leaf, 1 clove, 5 peppercorns, 1 small sprig of thyme, 5 parsley stalks

      Preparation

      Boil (blanch) veal bones / veal / calf’s feet: place in boiling water (1:10), vigorously boil for 2 minutes, drain, rinse bones first with hot, then with cold water.

      Cut vegetables into thumb size pieces.

      Place veal bones / veal / calf’s feet in a pan, cover with 1.4 l (2 1/2 pt or 6 U.S. cups) of cold water, season with salt, slowly bring to the boil, skim frequently.

      Reduce heat, gently boil for 1 hour, then add spices and vegetables and continue to softly boil for another 30 minutes to 1 hour.

      Pass through a coarse sieve first, then through a very fine tea strainer or through a cheesecloth. Season to taste with salt.

      Fond de Veau Blanc – White Veal Stock

      Fond de Veau Blanc is the base for Velouté de Veau or, respectively, Sauce Allemande. Reducing Fond de Veau will result in a white meat glaze.

      1. Prepare, wash and trim vegetables. Tie up vegetables into a bouquet garni.

      2. Add bones to water at full rolling boil.

      3.