The “flash” of five black ribbons on the collar of the Welsh Fusiliers. A survival from the days of the pigtail
|
134
|
110.
|
The modern groom, showing the belt to which ladies clung when riding on a pillion
|
140
|
111.
|
A footman in plush breeches and with powdered hair. His “pouter” coat dates from the reign of George III. By the courtesy of Messrs. F. T. Prewett and Co.
|
141
|
112.
|
A sheriff’s coachman with the full-skirted coat of the time of George II. By the courtesy of Messrs. Prewett and Co.
|
142
|
113.
|
The wig-bag (a survival of the bag-wig) now seen on the back of the collar of the Lord Mayor’s coachman
|
143
|
114.
|
A modern page-boy’s livery
|
145
|
115.
|
The Dutch skeleton dress, fashionable for boys in 1826
|
145
|
116.
|
The cockade known as the “large treble,” representing a survival of the chaperon
|
152
|
117.
|
A “treble cockade” covered with black cloth for mourning. The concentric circles would appear to represent the twisted liripipe of the chaperon
|
154
|
118.
|
Treble cockade used by Chelsea pensioners
|
155
|
119.
|
The Regent cockade
|
155
|
120.
|
Royal cockade for state occasions
|
155
|
121.
|
Ordinary Royal cockade
|
155
|
122.
|
|
Two stages in the evolution of the chaperon. Combined hood and cape
|
156
|
123.
|
Enlargement of the peak of the hood to form the liripipe. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black)
|
156
|
124.
|
|
Further development of the chaperon. Cape and liripipe made into a head-dress that can be altered at will
|
157
|
125.
|
A chaperon ready made up, in order to save trouble. (After Calthrop, by kind permission of Messrs. A. and C. Black)
|
157
|
126.
|
Dress worn by the girls at Coombe Hill School, Westerham. It is a modification of the Dervish Djibah
|
172
|
127.
|
Dress worn by the girls at the Croft School, Betley, when at work
|
173
|
128.
|
St. Gregory the Great with his father Gordianus, who was a senator, on his right, and his mother Sylvia on his left. This shows the similarity between ecclesiastical and civil costume in early times. From an authentic picture (after Marriott)
|
188
|
129.
|
A priest in the vestments now worn at the celebration of the Eucharist
|
194
|
130.
|
The coat of arms of Thomas à Becket, showing an archbishop’s pall
|
198
|
131.
|
The head-dress of a nun showing the veil and breast-cloth derived from the wimple, the cap which represents the chin-cloth, together with the frontal and the hood
|
203
|
132.
|
The head-dress of a lady of the time of Henry II. The wimple is shown covering the chin and head-bands (after Calthrop)
|
203
|
133.
|
The chin-band and forehead strap after the wimple has been removed (after Calthrop)
|
203
|
134.
|
Hanging sleeve of the fifteenth century
|
209
|
135.
|
The hanging sleeve of a Chancellor of Oxford University
|
211
|
136.
|
A college cap or trencher
|
214
|
137.
|
Cranmer’s hat, illustrating a stage in the evolution of a mortar-board (after Fairholt)
|
214
|
138.
|
The hat of a bishop of the Stuart Period showing a stage at which the stiffening now seen in the mortar-board was becoming necessary (after Fairholt)
|
214
|
139.
|
The wig of a modern judge
|
216
|
140.
|
The vestige of the coif from the wig of a serjeant-at-law
|
217
|
141.
|
A barrister’s gown showing the vestigial hood and its streamer. The buttons and braid which once temporarily looped up the sleeves now fix it permanently
|
219
|
142.
|
|