THE VILLAGE OF GÈDRE
THE CHAOS NEAR GAVARNIE
THE CIRQUE OF GAVARNIE (IN SUMMER)
"ON THE TAREES ROAD"
THE PEARL IN THE PEERLESS VALLEY
THE CHURCH OF MONTAUBAN (by Miss BLUNT)
THE RUE D'ENFER AND THE CASCADES
ON THE ROAD TO SUPERBAGNÈRES
ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES
THE CROCODILE OF ST. BERTRAND (by Miss BLUNT)
IN THE OLD CHURCH AT LARUNS
CASCADE DU VALENTIN
CRABE BRIDGE, IN THE EAUX CHAUDES GORGE
THE BIOUS-ARTIGUES
THE PIC DE GER
THE ROCKS OF BIARRITZ
THE VILLA EUGÉNIE
MRS. BLUNT'S ADVENTURE (by Miss BLUNT):—
SCENE I.—BEFORE THE START SCENE II.—THE ANCIENT STEED GREW YOUNG ONCE MORE SCENE III.—WHO'S MY DRIVER?
"MY PAW IS ON MY NATIVE HEATH, AND MY NAME IS 'Riou'" (by Miss BLUNT)
"SEE MORNING'S GOLDEN RAYS," &c.
"TOWERING ABOVE THE PLAIN"
PANORAMA OF THE CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS
PANORAMA OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE
PREFACE.
It has been my endeavour in this volume to provide an illustrated gossiping Guide to the Spas of the Pyrenees. Unlike previous books on the same region, it deals with the resorts in spring, when they are most charming. A certain amount of detail—which is unavoidable in all guide-books—has been unavoidable here, and the rhymes have been introduced in the hope of lightening the reading. These rhymes, as a rule, have a distinct bearing on the subject under discussion; but they are inserted in such a manner that the reader can omit to read them—if he objects to such frivolities—without losing the sense of the prose.
Very little really fresh information has been gained about these beautiful mountains since Mr. Charles Packe published his 'Guide to the Pyrenees' in 1867: a few more springs have been discovered, a few more mountains have been successfully ascended, and the towns have gradually increased in size. There have been very few of those melancholy accidents that we so often hear of from Switzerland, because, probably, considerably fewer tourists attempt these mountains than attempt the Alps. In this volume no descriptions of scaling ice-walls, searching for the lammergeiers' nests, or any other great feats, will be found. It contains a plain account of what may be seen and done by any party visiting the mountain resorts in spring, without much trouble or fatigue; and the narrative form has been adopted throughout.
M. Doré's illustrations speak for themselves; and Miss Blunt's spirited sketches are a valuable acquisition.
The Appendices have been compiled with great care; and—at the suggestion of an experienced M.D.—brief comments on the chief springs at the various Spas, and their healing properties, have been included in the general information.
I beg to acknowledge my indebtedness to M. Joanne's 'Pyrenees' and Mr. Black's 'Summer Resorts;' and I have also great pleasure in thanking Miss Blunt for her sketches, and my friend Mr. A. H. Crow, F.R.G.S., for his kindly assistance in correcting inaccuracies. As, however, it is extremely difficult to completely avoid them, I shall feel obliged for the notification of any others that may happen to exist.
E. E. B.
INTRODUCTION.
Considering the number of English and Americans who yearly visit Switzerland and the Riviera, it is astonishing that so few, comparatively, ever think of approaching nearer to the Pyrenees than Pau. And it is more astonishing still, that those who have been enabled to enjoy the beauty of these mountains from the Place Royale at Pau, should ever think of leaving their vicinity without a more intimate acquaintance with them.
It may be, that since the various resorts have gained celebrity for the healing powers of their waters, healthy travellers are of opinion that they will be surrounded by a crowd of sickly individuals, whose very appearance will spoil all the pleasure that they might otherwise experience. That this might be the case in the season, at a few spas, is not to be denied, but in spring not an invalid of that kind is to be met with, and the bathing establishments have no customers; but the scenery is everywhere at its best. Dr. Madden writes: "The attractions of the Pyrenees are not, however, confined to the invalid traveller, but even for the pleasure tourist offer inducements for a pedestrian excursion in some respects superior to any in Switzerland;" and there can be no doubt that they have a beauty of their own quite distinct from the grandeur of the Alps, and yet equally as wonderful in its style.
Extending for nearly 300 miles from the foaming billows of the Biscay to the azure waters of the Mediterranean, they form a huge barrier "'twixt France and Spain"; gaining their name of Pyrenees from the words "Pic Nérés," which in the patois of the country signifies "black peaks!" That this title is a misnomer for all but three months of the year—viz., from July to October—must be already a well-known fact; for who would call them "black" when clothed in their garments of snow?
The highest summits are in the Maladetta group, and the Pic Nethou (11,170 ft.) is the highest of all; while the average height of this magnificent range of mountains is between five and six thousand feet.
Luxurious valleys branch out in all directions, fed by the mountain streams, and among the central heights the wonderful natural amphitheatres known as Cirques stand in majestic solitude. The Cirque of Gavarnie—the best known—possesses on a bright day in spring such a charm, in its snowy imperial splendour, as the Alps would fail to surpass. In scenes where a lake adds such wonderful effect, Switzerland is quite supreme; we know of no view in the Pyrenees, of a comparable nature, that could pretend to vie with the harmonious loveliness of the panorama that can be seen at sunset from Montreux across Lac Leman, when the water is rippleless and the mountains are bathed in a rosy flood. But for all that, in other ways—in flower-clothed slopes, in luxurious valleys, in winding rivers and foaming cascades—the Pyrenees present pictures that, with the freshness of springtime to aid them, cannot fail to delight and charm.
Four roads cross the Pyrenees from France to Spain: the Route Nationale, from Paris to Madrid viâ Bayonne; the Route Départementale, from Bayonne to Pampeluna viâ the Col d'Urdax; the Route Nationale, from Perpignan to Barcelona viâ Gerona; and the route from Pau to Jaca viâ Oloron. There are other ways of entering Spain by the Cols (passes), but over these a horse track is the broadest path.
The principal bathing resorts on the French side are connected by the splendid Route Thermale, which extends for 70 miles; but, owing to its exposed position in some parts, especially between Eaux Bonnes and Argelès, and Barèges and Ste. Marie, it is only wholly open three or four months in the year!
Of the mineral springs it is sufficient to state here that, within the same extent of country, no other part of Europe can present such a wonderful choice. There are three principal kinds—the sulphurous, the saline, and the ferruginous; and over 200 springs contribute to them. Some resorts have waters of each of these classes, and many have at any rate two out of the three.
Of these, fuller information is given in the Appendix, as well as the chief uses of each, and the affections