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Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics


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3.1 Free radical polymerization: photoinitiators absorb light energy that generate free radicals (initiation), the conversion of the product into a cured solid material proceeds as a normal bulk free radical polymerization and continues to propagate (propagation), chain transfer reaction then occurs in which an active center is transferred from a growing oligomer molecule to another molecule (chain transfer) and then termination reaction occurs involving the growing polymer sites reacting together (termination).

       3.2.3 Chain Transfer Reaction

      Chain transfer reaction then occurs in which an active center is transferred from a growing oligomer molecule to another molecule.

       3.2.4 Termination Reaction

      Termination reaction involves the growing polymer sites reacting together. Free radical polymerization can also be terminated or retarded by the presence of atmospheric oxygen. Several techniques are used to prevent this termination or retardation of the free radical cure, especially at the interface between the coating and ambient air. We will discuss in a later section methods and techniques to minimize the retardation or termination of the free radical cure by oxygen [2].

       3.2.5 Photoinitiation

      The cleavage reaction of 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-1-phenyl-propan-1-one when it is photolyzed is shown in Figure 3.2. This proposed cleavage goes through a very short duration triplet state and decomposes by α-splitting to give a benzoyl radical and a 2-hydroxy-2-propyl radical which cross-link the system [2, 3].

       3.3.1 UV Light Spectrum

      To activate the PI a UV light source is needed that is tailored to the proper wavelength. To understand this better we need to review the wavelengths of UV light sources that are available commercially.

Schematic illustration of electromagnetic spectrum. UV-C (shortwave) starts at 254 nm, UV-B (midrange) starts at 302 nm and UV-A (longwave) starts at 365 nm. UV cure light sources used in the UV nail gel area use the UV-A source.

       3.3.2 Matching the PI with the UV Light Source and Pigments Absorption/Transmission

      This absorption/transmission spectrum is critical when using certain PIs. In fact, UV light sources that are in the UV-B and UV-C ranges as shown in Figure 3.3 cannot fully activate the PIs through to the bottom of the applied coating. The formulator then needs to find a light source that operates in the UV-A wavelength since the rutile (TiO2) will block the absorption of the UV light.

Graph depicts the Absorption/transmission spectrum of rutile ((TiO2)) that is important to consider when attempting to cure pigmented UV nail gel formulations. Graph depicts the absorption curves for photoinitiators used. a=Benzoinether absorbs in the 280 to 360 nm range, b=Irgacure 651 absorbs in the 280 to 360 nm range, c=Darocur 1173 absorbs in the 280 to 360 nm range and is blocked by </p>
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