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Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics


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rutile (TiO2). d= Lucirin TPO absorbs above 365 nm to allow proper through-cure of the coating due to high pigment loading by rutile (TiO2)."/>

      The ability to cure coatings that contain up to 30% rutile ((TiO2)) has an impact on through-cure. The higher the pigmentation the less the chance for through-cure. In addition, a thicker pigmented coating also results in no through-cure. Using the same UV cure formulation, researchers have shown that by just increasing the energy density one can get better through-cure as shown in Figure 3.7 (a & b) using UV arc lamps at 200W and 300 W. By utilizing the addition of TL03 UV Lamp (Gallium-doped low wattage long wavelength fluorescent; Phillips 60 W) one enhances the deep penetration of the UV light into the coating which results in better through-cure and hardness development. Even better performance results are shown in Figure 3.7 (E-Gallium Doped & F-Iron Doped) and the use of high performance (300 W and 600 W) UV light sources results in the best through-cure and hardness development [4].

      In the UV nail gel market the first UV light sources were gallium-doped low-wattage long wavelength fluorescent bulbs (GA-FL) that are close to Figure 3.7 (c & d) UV wavelength and energy levels except for the use of the UV arc lamp bulbs. Early work with these GA-FL bulbs allowed the formulator to cure oligomeric chemistries in about 3 minutes.

      As mentioned earlier, oxygen inhibition issues with UV cure will result in coatings that have poor surface cure. Work done on early UV cure systems looked at the depth of penetration that ambient air had on the problem of oxygen inhibition.

Schematic illustration of Depth of penetration by ambient oxygen in a UV cure coating.

      As was mentioned in the previous section the concept of UV nail gels has the following concerns: oxygen inhibition, low energy UV light sources, and industrial hygiene (IH).

       3.5.1 UV Nail Gel Cure Units: GA-FL and LED

      Wattage output for the GA-FL units is as low as 40W. In addition, the newer technique for UV curing of nail gels is the use of LED units that emit an even lower level of UV energy than the GA-FL UV cure units.

       3.5.2 UV Cure and Free Radical Oxygen Inhibition

Photo depicts the Gallium-doped low-wattage long wavelength fluorescent bulb (GA-FL).