resurrect the dead,’ and it’s not far wrong as the nutritional content of a homemade stock indeed has miraculous qualities if eaten regularly. Our great-grandmothers were right after all.
1 whole chicken carcass, raw or cooked
1 large leek, cut into 4 pieces
2 celery sticks, each cut into 4 pieces
2 carrots, each cut into 4 pieces
2–4 garlic cloves, to taste, peeled
1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs of parsley, 1 or 2 sprigs of thyme and a small bay leaf)
a few black peppercorns
pinch of sea salt
1. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. Place the chicken bones in a roasting tin and cook in the oven for 15 minutes. The roasting stage is optional but I love the slightly stronger, more enhanced flavour that it gives the final broth.
2. Once the bones are roasted (see tips), transfer them to a large saucepan and add the leek, celery, carrots and garlic cloves. Pop in the bouquet garni and black peppercorns, then cover generously with cold water – adding about 2 litres (3½pints). The water must be cold since, while it’s slowly heating up, it will draw the flavour and goodness out of the vegetables and the bones.
3. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 2 hours, skimming off and discarding any foam that rises to the surface.
4. Once it’s cooked, strain the broth through a fine sieve, then leave to stand to allow the fat to rise to the top. Skim off the fat and season the broth with salt to taste.
TIPS
If there are any bits of meat or little caramelised nuggets of flavour stuck to the roasting tin after cooking the chicken bones, place the tray over a medium heat on the hob, pour in a small glass of water and, using a whisk, scrape to dissolve the bits. Pour these into the saucepan too.
I’ve found that if I leave the fat sitting on top of the stock while it’s in the fridge there are two added bonuses – once the fat is chilled it’s far easier to lift it off the stock; and the stock keeps for longer (a few weeks rather than just a few days) in the fridge if completely covered in the fat. Remove the fat before use.
Chicken noodle broth
SERVES 6–8
I remember many versions of this broth while growing up – I don’t think it was ever the same twice. Mum seemed to constantly have a delicious chicken stock on the go, which always went into this most restorative of soups – a hug in a bowl.
1.6 litres (2¾ pints) chicken stock, well strained
4 garlic cloves, finely sliced
160g (5½oz) spaghetti, broken into 2.5cm (1in) lengths
4 tbsp chopped parsley
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Put the chicken stock, garlic and spaghetti into a saucepan and season with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover and bring to a gentle boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 8–10 minutes until the spaghetti is cooked (or cook for the length of time specified on the packet).
2. When the spaghetti is cooked, stir in the parsley, check the seasoning and serve.
Chicken broth with chilli and ginger
SERVES 4
1.2 litres (2 pints) cold chicken or vegetable stock, well strained
20 large sprigs of coriander or flat-leaf parsley, stalks and leaves separated
½–1 red chilli, to taste, finely sliced (leave the seeds in if you dare!)
2cm (¾ inch) piece of fresh ginger, finely sliced
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Put the cold stock in a saucepan and add the coriander or parsley stalks (keep the leaves for serving), sliced chilli, ginger and a little salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, then taste and add more seasoning, if you like.
2. Ladle into warm bowls or cups and serve scattered with the coriander or parsley leaves – whole or chopped, whichever you prefer.
Chicken dumpling soup
SERVES 4
A twist on the age-old Asian dumpling soup, this is deeply satisfying and wonderfully restorative. The better the chicken stock, the better the soup.
300g (11oz) minced chicken (thigh is best but breast works fine too)
1 small garlic clove, crushed
2 tbsp chopped parsley
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
60g (2½oz) spring onions, white parts finely chopped and green parts sliced at an angle, kept separate
a little oil
1.5 litres (2½ pints) chicken stock
handful of broken spaghetti (optional)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the minced chicken in a bowl and add the garlic, parsley, ¼teaspoon salt, the nutmeg and a twist of black pepper. Add the white parts of the spring onions and mix well to combine. Break off a small piece of the mixture and fry it in a little oil, then taste it and adjust the seasoning if needed.
2. With wet hands, shape the minced chicken into 20 equal-sized dumplings. Set aside in the fridge while you prepare your chicken broth.
3. Pour the stock into a saucepan, add salt and pepper if necessary, and bring it to the boil. Add the chicken dumplings and bring to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes to cook the dumplings through. (If you want to make this soup more substantial, add a handful of broken spaghetti strands and cook with the stock and the dumplings.)
4. Add the green parts of the spring onions for the last minute of cooking. Divide the broth and the dumplings among four bowls and serve.
Chorizo, bean and kale broth
SERVES 6
I have a problem with chorizo, in that I cannot get enough of the stuff. It has an amazing ability to give its characteristic kick to everything – from chicken and shellfish to pulses and grains. This is the kind of chunky soup that I adore; full of flavour and bursting with goodness.
125g (4½oz) dried borlotti beans, haricot or butter beans (or use 250g/9oz tinned beans, drained and rinsed)
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 celery stick, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
110g (4oz) chorizo, skin removed, cut into dice
200g (7oz) tomatoes, chopped
1.2 litres (2 pints) chicken or vegetable stock
75g (3oz) de-stalked kale, roughly chopped
1 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp chopped rosemary
pinch of grated nutmeg
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
crusty bread
1. First prepare the beans, if using dried beans. Soak the dried beans in plenty of cold water overnight. The next day, drain and place in a pan of fresh cold water and boil for 45–60 minutes until tender. Drain and set aside.