a saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic with a pinch of salt and pepper. Sweat for 15 minutes with the lid on until the onion is soft but not coloured.
3. Add the diced chorizo, replace the lid and continue to cook for a further 5 minutes to let the oils run out.
4. Next, add the freshly cooked or drained tinned beans and tomatoes, cover and cook for a further 5 minutes. Then, add the stock, bring to the boil, then simmer for 5 minutes more.
5. Finally, add the kale, parsley, rosemary and nutmeg, and cook, uncovered, for 5–10 minutes until the kale is tender. The cooking time will depend on the time of year, as young kale cooks quicker. Serve with crusty bread.
Oxtail and pearl barley soup
SERVES 4–6
A deeply satisfying meal in a bowl, this is the very essence of comfort food. Hearty, nutritious and frugal to boot, what’s not to love?
90g (3¼oz) pearl barley
25g (1oz) butter
1 oxtail, about 1kg (2lb 3oz), cut into pieces 4–6cm (1½–2in) long, cut through the ‘knuckles’
3 carrots, cut into large chunks
1 leek, cut into large chunks
2 celery sticks, cut into large chunks
1 large or 2 small onions, cut into large chunks
3 garlic cloves, halved
100ml (3½fl oz) red wine
4 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 bouquet garni (a few sprigs of parsley, 1 or 2 sprigs of thyme and a small bay leaf)
2 tbsp tomato purée
good pinch of salt
15 peppercorns
4 tbsp chopped parsley
juice of ¼ lemon
1. Preheat the oven to 150°C (300°F), Gas mark 2. Put the pearl barley into a heatproof bowl and pour in 270ml (9½fl oz) boiling water to cover. Set aside.
2. Melt the butter in a large casserole over a medium heat. Add the chunks of oxtail and brown on all sides, then transfer to a bowl or plate. Brown the vegetables and garlic, then pour in the wine and vinegar and scrape up the dark caramelised bits with a wooden spoon. Return the oxtail to the casserole. Next, pour in 1.5 litres (2½ pints) water and add the bouquet garni, tomato purée, salt and peppercorns. Bring to the boil, then transfer to the oven, or simmer very gently on the hob, for 3–3½ hours until the meat is falling off the bone. Carefully remove the pieces of oxtail from the casserole and put on a tray to cool slightly.
3. Meanwhile, strain the vegetables and discard, then strain the cooking liquor into another heatproof bowl. Clean the casserole and pour in the strained liquid. Allow to stand until the fat rises to the top, then skim it off. Strain the pearl barley and add it to the skimmed liquid.
4. It’s a bit fiddly, but pick all the meat from the cooled oxtail bones and discard the bones and fat. This takes a little while but it is worth it. Pull the meat apart with your fingers then add the shreds to the casserole with the skimmed liquid and pearl barley and cook for 45 minutes over a medium heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
5. Stir in the parsley and lemon juice, then serve immediately.
Salmon, smoked haddock and pea chowder
SERVES 4–6
A chowder is a great way to make a little fish go a long way, and smoked haddock brings its own lovely richness. This is delicious served with Sue’s Oatmeal Bread.
50g (2oz) butter
120g (4oz) leeks, halved lengthways, then cut into 5mm (¼in) slices
150g (5oz) spring onions, green and white parts sliced, kept separate
600g (1lb 5oz) potatoes, cut into 1cm (½in) dice
1 litre(1¾ pints) light chicken, fish or vegetable stock
120g (4oz) smoked haddock fillet, cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) chunks
200g (7oz) salmon fillet, cut into 1–2cm (½–¾in) chunks
100g (3½oz) peas
50ml (2fl oz) regular or double cream
3 tbsp chopped parsley
1. Melt the butter in a large pan and add the leeks, the white parts of the spring onions and the potatoes. Cook over a low heat for 10 minutes or until the leeks and spring onions are soft but not coloured.
2. Add the stock and bring it to the boil, then turn down and simmer for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are soft.
3. Add the smoked haddock, salmon, peas and the green parts of the spring onions. Cook for a further 5 minutes, then add the cream and chopped parsley and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Serve piping hot.
Crab and sweetcorn chowder
SERVES 4–6
A chowder is more than just a soup, it’s a meal in a bowl, and this version with delicious sweet-salty crabmeat and corn is a keeper. Needless to say, the better the crabmeat, the more delicious this will be. If you can get hold of some brown crabmeat along with the white, the flavour will be even better.
30g (1¼oz) butter
200g (7oz) onions, cut into 1cm (½in) dice
2 garlic cloves, chopped
300g (11oz) potatoes, cut into 1cm (½in) dice
600ml (1 pint) hot chicken, fish or vegetable stock
200g (7oz) sweetcorn kernels
200ml (7fl oz) milk
150g (5oz) white crabmeat
pinch of cayenne pepper
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped parsley
2 tsp chopped tarragon
50ml (2fl oz) regular or double cream
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
fresh bread
1. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a gentle heat, then add the onions and garlic with a little salt and pepper. Cover and allow to sweat until soft but not coloured. Add the potatoes and cook for a further 5–10 minutes, stirring occasionally so that they don’t brown.
2. Next, add the stock, sweetcorn and milk, and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the potatoes are cooked through and are just beginning to thicken the soup.
3. Finally, add the crabmeat, cayenne pepper, lemon juice, chopped herbs and cream. Bring the chowder back up to a gentle simmer, then serve with lots of lovely bread.
Wild garlic soup
SERVES 6
A vibrant green soup that makes you feel good just looking at it, not to mention eating it! Use the wide-leaf wild garlic, ramson, or the three-cornered leek with the narrow leaves, both in season in spring. At other times of the year, or if you can’t get hold of any wild garlic, you can replace it with watercress, young nettles (wear gloves when harvesting – the sting will go once cooked!), spinach, kale or chard.
25g (1oz) butter