4
A gorgeously substantial salad, this has all the elements of a summer main course that I love – delicious fresh leaves, smoky tender fish and a softly boiled egg encased in a crispy breadcrumb coating. Use really good extra-virgin olive oil here.
4 × 200g (7oz) fillets of fish – smoked haddock or coley, either hot-smoked (see Biscuit-Tin-Smoked Fish), or shop-bought cold-smoked fish
a little butter
4 handfuls of lamb’s lettuce or any other delicious salad leaves
For the dressing
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the crispy eggs
4 eggs, plus 1 beaten egg
2 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
3 tbsp panko or fine white breadcrumbs
sunflower oil, for shallow-frying or deep-frying
1. To make the crispy eggs, bring a large pan of water to the boil, then add the eggs (they need to be completely submerged), set a timer and allow to boil for exactly 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the eggs and cool under cold running water to prevent them cooking further.
2. Place the seasoned flour, beaten egg and the breadcrumbs in three separate shallow dishes. Peel the eggs carefully, as they will still be soft in the centre, roll them in the flour, then in the beaten egg and, finally, in the crumbs to give them a nice coating. Set aside.
3. Cook your fish – either follow the hot-smoked biscuit-tin recipe, or pan-fry the cold-smoked fish in a little butter.
4. While the fish is cooking, heat a little sunflower oil for the crispy eggs in a small pan and shallow-fry the eggs, turning frequently, until they are golden and crispy all over, or deep-fry them in sunflower oil.
5. Whisk together all the ingredients for the dressing. Put the lamb’s lettuce in a bowl and sprinkle with a few teaspoons of the dressing, then toss – the leaves should be lightly coated but not too much.
6. Place the cooked fish in the centre of each plate, then place a crispy egg on top. Arrange the dressed leaves around each one in a ring, drizzle the whole plate with more dressing and serve.
Roast beetroot salad with liquorice, goat’s cheese and candied pearl barley
SERVES 4
This salad is inspired by a recipe that the wonderful cookery writer Diana Henry wrote on her return from my mother’s home town of Reykjavik. Liquorice is one of my mum’s favourite flavours from growing up in Iceland and this is an intriguing method of cooking it with beetroot. It adds a subtle, spicy sweetness, but you can leave it out if you prefer.
400g (14oz) even-sized raw beetroot, whole and unpeeled
2 sticks (20g/¾oz) broken liquorice root
4 handfuls of salad leaves, including some small beetroot leaves, if possible
150g (5oz) soft goat’s cheese
For the candied pearl barley
50g (2oz) pearl barley
50g (2oz) brown sugar
pinch of sea salt
For the dressing
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
4 tbsp walnut oil
1 tbsp honey
2 tbsp cider vinegar
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Remove the leaves from the beetroot and cut off most of the stalk, leaving about 2cm (¾in) attached. Leave the tails intact. Wash under a cold tap – do not scrub, simply rub off any dirt with your fingers. You don’t want to damage the skin, otherwise the beetroot will ‘bleed’ while cooking, losing important nutrients.
2. Put the beets in a saucepan large enough to fit them all in a tight single layer, add the liquorice and just cover with water – do not add salt. Cover, place on the hob and bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for ¾–1 hour until cooked. The skin should peel easily and a knife slide into the centre.
3. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beetroot and set aside until cool enough to handle. Return the pot to the hob and allow the beetroot cooking water to bubble with the lid off until reduced to a quarter of its original volume. Discard the liquorice.
4. While the beets cook, toast the pearl barley in a pan over a medium heat, shaking frequently until it turns a light nutty brown. Remove from the pan and set aside.
5. Sprinkle the brown sugar into the dry pan, return to the heat and, without stirring, allow to dissolve. When the sugar has dissolved, return the pearl barley to the pan with a pinch of salt. Shake the pan or swirl gently to coat the pearl barley with caramel and then pour it out onto a piece of baking parchment. Set aside to cool.
6. Next, make the dressing. Mix the oils, honey, vinegar and mustard in a bowl with a pinch of salt. Set aside.
7. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas mark 6. When cool, peel the beets and cut into wedges. Toss in a little dressing and roast for 10 minutes.
8. Loosen the remaining dressing with 1 tablespoon of the beetroot cooking liquid. Dress the leaves, divide among four plates in a ‘nest’ in the centre of each. Alternate wedges of beetroot and blobs of cheese around the leaves. Chop the candied pearl barley and sprinkle over, drizzle with the remaining dressing and serve.
Scandi kale salad with horseradish
SERVES 4–6
A lovely simple salad with Scandi flavours that uses lots of nutritious raw kale. The deliciously hot/sweet/tangy dressing is also super tossed with raw grated beetroot, carrot and celeriac, slaw-style.
200g (7oz) de-stalked kale leaves, roughly chopped
For the dressing
175g (6oz) crème fraîche
120ml (4fl oz) lemon juice
2½ tbsp finely grated horseradish
40g (1½oz) sugar
pinch of sea salt
1. Place the kale leaves in a bowl.
2. To make the dressing, whisk together the crème fraîche, lemon juice, horseradish and sugar, and season with a pinch of salt. Add the dressing to the kale and toss to combine.
Beetroot and coriander hummus
MAKES 450ml (16fl oz)
1 raw beetroot, peeled and cut into chunks
1 × 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 tbsp light tahini (sesame seed paste)
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra if needed
juice of ½–1 lemon, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the beetroot chunks, chickpeas, garlic and tahini into a food processor, pour in the olive oil, then pulse until smooth. Add the lemon juice and the chopped coriander then season to taste with salt and pepper. If the hummus is a bit too thick, add a little more olive oil.
2. The hummus will